Perfume Reviews

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Collection 34 : 34 Boulevard Saint Germain by Diptyque

I've always found 34 EDT interesting in regards to it's mating of Eucalyptus to Cardamom, which to my mind offers a subtle lift to the Camphor, of each, as compliment. The joining to the Wood and Resins is seamless and throws an allude to a base of Young, Dry Sandal. A touch of Rose enhanced by a dance with a cousin Geranium, carries centre stage, while a judicious drop of Tuberose mildly suggests butter. Iris and Violet mingle together and then melt into the romantic melange. Lovely, light, balanced. Drydown works back to a slight Citric and some would say dry, rubbed Sandal with a note of ancient Feline Urinous-ness.
The play is ephemeral, attracts little attention and is best suited for those, who wish to project a quiet, halo of, Elegance.

The 34 EDP.
So very similar to the above, with a little Volume up on the Cassis Citric to counter a base of Ambered Vanilla (and I feel), touch of WAC Tonka. This provides a little more backbone, with emphasis of Baie Rose effervescence. The scent now dances into the Evening.
22nd September, 2018 (last edited: 23rd September, 2018)

L'Art et la Matière : Bois d'Arménie by Guerlain

Seems like another smokey-incense vanilla to me, not something I enjoy. The opening is heavy and sticky and lasts for a couple hours. After that, you start to lose the heaviness and it just evolves into a burned out vanilla candle.

Leans too feminine for my tastes. Feels like a cold-weather, formal scent.

Big projection in the opening but becomes more manageable after a couple hours. The whole thing lasts for 7-8 hours.
22nd September, 2018
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Monsoon by Dame Perfumery

Supposedly a mix of orris, creosote, cedar, and jasmine/lily that simulates rain on the earth. The concept is better than the execution here. Really no orris to speak of. The creosote is dominant but the jasmine/musky support makes it sweet rather than smokey and thus the effect is one of fresh bandages and adhesive rather than the intended earth, rain, and fire. Not unpleasant but not that interesting either.
22nd September, 2018
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Terre d'Hermès by Hermès

I 've read a lot of reviews of TH, so I blind bought it (like I often do) without thinking twice about it.
The opening was lovely citrus, followed by a wonderful pepper smell. I do love pepper in a fragrance, so that's a big plus. Terre d'Hermes has got it all. However...

The dry-down comes rather quickly after an hour or so, and with my bottle (bought 2018) it is rough, very rough. The beautiful opening which was still lingering in my mind was replaced by an overly bright, almost acidic smell which was headache-inducing and turned me off altogether. It's not just on my skin, because I've tried my TH on a paper strip and it got the same smell on the dry-down. I've now tried it multiple times, but I can't get past the bad ending. Maybe it is my batch, or perhaps it's a fragrance that doesn't agree with me. I'd like to warn you that although this works great with almost everybody else (check the reviews here to get the gist of it), it might not be for everyone. I'm sad to say that this is, so far, the worst fragrance in my (limited) collection. Sacrilege. Shame on me, I know. I can't help it.

I'd love to like it and deem it a masterpiece but the unexpected sour ending that lingers for hours ruins my experience completely. Try before you buy, especially recent batches.

Terre d'Hermes EdT simply doesn't agree with me.
22nd September, 2018

The One Grey by Dolce & Gabbana

The One Grey is not "The One." It's actually "The Six," because five other "The One's" came before it. I tried it on paper and then sprayed The One on another paper test strip when I picked up these samples from Sephora. I preferred the opening of The One Grey over The One, but now I'm wearing them on either wrist for comparison and have had them on for a little over 2 hours. The One Grey doesn't have the staying power of The One. I may prefer The One Grey overall, but there is something about The One that I also like. The One Grey has a freshness but also becomes a skin scent much quicker, which isn't a bad thing in this case as I think I could get some fatigue from The One over time. They're both decant worthy, but not FB worthy for me. Nice, but not quite my thing.
22nd September, 2018

Heritage Eau de Parfum by Guerlain

After lots of research and testing the EDT and reading that the EDP is more in line with what I like (although I LOVE the EDT). I ordered a bottle on Fragrance.net, new bottle so assuming it is the latest version. I did find one in the old bottle but I'm always nervous of wasting money on something that may be off. Because I wasn't aware of it at launch, with its very masculine and old-school advertising, I have a very different impression of it in real life. I agree with Oviatt's impression that this is more Shalimar than Habit Rouge. I also agree with Luca Turin's description of 'radiant' - I wouldn't exactly term it as 'sillage' because its not a monster scent, but it does in fact radiate off the skin (or even my t-shirt which I sprayed it on today) in waves. Its so smooth and blended that I never really pick out any one note - you know they are all in there, but they are all part of a solidly built structure. I also get a bit of the dirt/skank some describe about 30 minutes in - I actually thought perhaps the bottle I got was 'off' but after about 5 minutes it smooths out. For me the difference between an exceptional scent and a merely good one is the entire drydown of a wearing - so many today are meant to smell nice when you sniff at Sephora, you buy immediately, then wear it a few times and nothing is left after an hour or two and you question why you purchased. But with the classics, the drama and pleasure is in the life of the thing. I have a bottle of Shalimar and for me, those first 15-30 minutes are weird - it only gets better. Heritage, Habit Rouge definitely fit here. Caron Pour Un Homme smells amazing until the end of the day. Frederic Malle's Noir Epices is so well-done (and strong) that I can sometimes still smell it in bed after I've showered. Heritage joins this group for me.
22nd September, 2018

Oud Jaune Intense by Fragrance Du Bois

Oud Jaune Intense By Fragrance Du Bois !!!

Oud Jaune is simply one the best Jasmine fragrance with the initial blast of fruity notes aligning with ylang ylang.You need to be a floral lover to appreciate this beauty .I am not able to detect Oud so far but the overall texture is so appealing.!!!!!
22nd September, 2018

Must de Cartier by Cartier

If I found jasmine
And tangerine Shalimar
Would you believe me?
22nd September, 2018

Molecule 02 by Escentric Molecules

The opening is woody, fizzy and salty with a little citrus zing that brightens it up. That opening doesn't last long as the salty-citrus that gives this scent some bite fades and you're left with just a soft woody base that's very pleasant.

Hard to gauge projection because it comes and goes throughout the day. I was still able to pick it up 9-10 hours after spraying.
22nd September, 2018

cK In 2U Him by Calvin Klein

The quintessential airport scent. Inoffensive and therefore easy to wear. Basically reminds me of Prada Amber Pour Homme with all the mystery taken out.
22nd September, 2018

Bleu de Chanel Parfum by Chanel

What does a house like Chanel do when their biggest-selling male fragrance line since probably the first continues to sell well nearly a dacade after it's launch and without the aid of a myriad flanking varieties? Like it or not, the final mainstream masculine work of Jacques Polge, his commercial "aquatic done right" which finally placed Chanel into a category it was more than twenty years behind on, was a smash success, and Chanel was smart about not fixing what "ain't broke" and handling the line like a feminine one, with alternate formula tweaks via concentration levels rather than entirely new flavors wearing the Bleu de Chanel (2010) badge a la their Allure Homme (1999) line. The latter frankly needed the variety to survive after the Y2K mediocrity that was the original pillar, but such isn't the case here. Jacques Polge took one final stab a year before retirement making an eau de parfum version of Bleu de Chanel simply called Bleu de Chanel Eau de Parfum (2014), and it was a slightly warmer, sweeter, more ambery take on the original that supplemented heavier doses of the ambroxan and norlimbanol the original contained with additional citruses and an old-fashioned vanillic composite amber note. I personally didn't see that one as an essential purchase for owners of the more complex and dynamic eau de toilette, but folks who hadn't yet entered the BdC game might dig it. Jacques Polge was tired, and ready to hand the reigns over to his son Olivier Polge, who had trained under both his father and Chanel artistic director Christopher Sheldrake, so it wasn't much of stretch to imagine that he didn't really try much with the eau de parfum before turning in his keys. Bleu de Chanel Parfum (2018) answers the question first posed at the beginning of this review, and is the first official masculine outing from new head perfumer and prodigal son Olivier Polge. I feel like Bleu de Chanel Parfum is a direct reaction to competitors like Dior Sauvage (2015) and Yves Saint Laurent Y for Men (2017), as both of them continued upping the ante with ambroxan and norlimbanol in a "loudness war" for the title of screechiest chemical fragrance of the century (and I like Sauvage so I say that kindly). Bleu de Chanel Parfum keeps itself distinguished by moving not up, but to the side, offering a fundamentally different experience from the core pillar of the Bleu de Chanel line, unlike the erstwhile EdP.

Bleu de Chanel Parfum sees Olivier Polge strip away a lot of the rather impressive blending his father did with the original Bleu de Chanel note structure, and indeed hacks away at unessential notes too, with a lot of the citrus outside the grapefruit gone with the wind. In their place, Olivier introduces a rounded French lavender, giving a link of sorts to the fresh fougère genre of the early 90's citing examples like Eternity for Men by Calvin Klein (1989) or Paco Rabanne XS Pour Homme (1993). Pink peppercorn surives the cull, while the dihydromyrcenol and mint are kicked up, giving the parfum a stronger "dryer sheet" aquatic lean not unlike Wings for Men by Giorgio Beverly Hills (1994), but these notes rush into the heart very quickly and all but the mint drops off. There, in that glorious middle, cedar joins this mint, alongside labadanum and ginger, with the rest of the old heart also excised from the composition. The base of Bleu de Chanel parfum is where the most dramatic difference lies between it and it's fore-bearers, since the ambroxan is turned up but the norlimbanol turned down, and some form of Australian sandalwood (New Caledonian according to Chanel) taking the place of the trimmed "karmawood" scratch. The composite amber note from the eau de parfum is also here, but it is turned down and therefore less vanillic or sweet, serving just to round off the additional woods, the lingering mint, ginger, and soft citrus. The result of this stark simplification is a version of Bleu de Chanel which feels more natural, with much more note separation, and clear-cut transitions from the top, heart, and base through the wear. Now I'm not saying there still isn't a prescription's worth of synthetics in the parfum, but they share space with more natural-smelling, if not actually natural accords here, with minimal traces of the "scouring powder" scratch that many things from the genre the original Bleu de Chanel created seem to break down into in the end. Just like the advertisements say, this is a woody, more aromatic, and intense interpretation of Bleu de Chanel.

Whereas I felt the eau de parfum was a sweeter, richer, and quieter take on the eau de toilette made void of it's freshness (and charm), the parfum isn't similarly an aquatic with it's wings clipped, but rather not really an aquatic at all thanks to the prominent lavender. What we have here is a woodsy parfum with a minty lavender citrus barbershop top, using aquatic elements blended into mint and lavender to make the appropriate "bleu" vibe, but without actually feeling like it's replicating the smell of water. Bleu de Chanel parfum has a similar approach to what Aqua Velva (1935) or Gillette Cool Wave (1993) take by placing an aqueous note back behind lavender and mint and not the other way around. Without sounding like I'm debasing the Chanel by comparing it to a drugstore aftershave, let's just say that it's an ephemeral freshness meant to introduce and not dominate the rest of the composition. Once Bleu de Chanel Parfum gets on skin for any appreciable amount of time, it's minty woods, lavender, and amber for the duration, which is a far cry from the original EdT or even EdP, meaning owning the parfum would not be redundant for owners of the EdT, unlike the EdP release. Wear time for Bleu de Chanel Parfum is long and sillage is actually greater than with the Eau de Parfum release, and since it jives differently, one could almost layer the original eau de toilette on top the parfum so as to get that dynamic citrus and pepper on top the lavender, amber, and sandalwood base. People who took issue with the synthetic nature of the original entry, or just hate all things modern will not click with this, and if the original Bleu de Chanel couldn't change your mind about aquatics, this parfum won't change your mind about the Bleu de Chanel line either. The parfum feels like a companion fragrance that's nearly a flanker with the way it stands apart, which is something Dior and YSL also seem to be doing with higher concentrations of their marquee masculines as well. Bleu de Chanel sees Olivier Polge hitting the ground running, and the simple elegant quality here has me hoping that the next great masculine pillar will be a real return to form for the house of Chanel.
22nd September, 2018

Falling Into the Sea by Imaginary Authors

The opening smells like fruits and screechy lemon based flor cleaner (and I normally like citrus in fragrances) with sort of a sun tan lotion vibe. A cheap smelling combination, though clean, that really gives me the impression that someone just moped the floor. It ends with a cheap tropical fruity sun tan lotion smell.
22nd September, 2018

Mosaic by Imaginary Authors

Petitgrain and bergamot show their faces at the surface while beneath lies a salty floral accord. It is a nice bitter-sweet-salty combination that will remain like this and will become softer until is gone.
22nd September, 2018
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Eau du Coq by Guerlain

This Eau caught my eye at a local Bloomingdale's fragrance counter. Along with several other Eaus from Guerlain present there, Eau du Coq received my undivided attention as I tried to fill in the blanks about them.

These are the notes within the fragrance triangle:
Top notes = orange, citruses, neroli, bergamot and lemon
Middle notes = patchouli, lavender and jasmine
Base notes = sandalwood and oakmoss

Eau du Coq is a spicy, citrus aromatic fashioned about the eau de cologne style of scents that have been around for centuries. Like Eau de Guerlain (which is a sharper take), Eau du Coq is loaded with citrus fruit juiciness and neroli flower - an eau de cologne characteristic - tempered down by aromatic lavender, patchouli, and
exotic jasmine flower. Earthy oak moss along with slight residues of creamy warm sandalwood round out Eau du Coq.

The result is an eau de cologne with a slightly herbal edge, thanks to lavender. I can understand how some would say that this scent resembles Guerlain's "Jicky" - a lavender-loaded perfume also made by perfumer Aimé Guerlain. Overall, it is a fairly distinct experience that is several steps more than an eau de cologne.
22nd September, 2018

Eau de Guerlain by Guerlain

A more interesting take on eau de colognes from Guerlain (compared to, say, Eau de Cologne Imperiale which I have always felt so let down by).

This edc has a richer, longer lasting quality to it which has more going on within to make it MORE than just another edc: This citrus aromatic is fresh and spicy, helped along by the presence of fancy ingredients like sweaty caraway, tasty basil, and pleasant floral of rose, jasmine, and unusual carnation blossom. All sit atop a warm amber-moss-musk base.

Compared to other edc's, this one has a sharper touch to it, which makes it stand out. Initially, it can come across as cloying, but give it some time to settle down and "move" in its development before making a final decision.

Worthy of having the "Guerlain" name! :-)
22nd September, 2018

Eau de Cashmere by Guerlain

Really nice, classy Eau from Guerlain!

Eau de Cashmere, a unisex fragrance, leads with a citrus salvo of mandarin orange and bergamot that flows into the almond-vanilla wonder contained within heliotrope blossom, blended nicely with the strong presence of iris plus bright musk. Lavender floats evenly in this mix, with a touch of cedar starchiness and earthy mossy vetiver.

This all creates a rich, cashmeran-like experience which I really am drawn to! Smooth, caressing fragrance that I enjoy every second of. Big thumbs up for this!!
22nd September, 2018

Derby by Guerlain

(The bottle that I tested from was the clear, parallelogram shaped one with inverted grey cap.)

What a time-warp to that eccentric decade, the 1980's!!
Guerlain's Derby is wonderful men's chypre cologne with plenty of spiciness, floral onslaughts, and virile muskiness: Quintessential bracing go-get-'em cologne from 1985. Smells like it's from another era (obviously, I'm testing out the original pre-2005 relaunch version that's in the fancy square bottle pictured above).

Overall perception is a leathery-woody fragrance chock full of spicy-floral goodness that keeps this interesting and confidence-building. Nostalgic peek into a decade of straight expression and fearless experimentation.
22nd September, 2018

Cuir de Russie by Guerlain

It is my honor to be the SECOND reviewer of this amazing scent from the house of Guerlain! A good friend has a bottle of Cuir de Russie which has been in his household for many, many decades; I handled the vintage bottle with the utmost of care, for the cause of sharing my experience on this site.

Just like a vintage liquor, my initial impressions of CdR was how silky smooth it came across...like a precious wine aging and just getting better, not losing its traits at all. Birch seems to jump out from this otherwise well-mixed potion, as does the wondrous civet musk and my all-time favorite note, iris. Honestly, little else of what is listed in the basenotes triangle above was obvious from the dab I placed on my wrist, though there is a gourmandish sweetness that I would attribute to benzoin. The fact that there was pre-2001 oakmoss in this fragrance was a most fascinating thought, as I could barely detect the earthy-mossy note.

The age of the liquid within had to be a factor in how this was perceived by me. I could only imagine how this bottle of Cuir de Russie must have smelt like in its initial creation and opening: Perhaps brighter, more crisp and sparkly. Now, it is a dense, powdery wood-spice-amber potion that sort of resembles leather that was covered in a sweet oil. And given its age, the sillage and longevity were quite low.

I like what remains of this bottle of CdR. Most old, old bottles of cologne or perfume that I've encountered deserve to be tossed promptly into the trash, due to the expired, spoiled ingredients within. I can't say that this particular scent is in that same category, even after sooooooooo long! A testament to the quality materials and craftmanship of the original scent.
22nd September, 2018

Cologne du Parfumeur by Guerlain

Clean, refreshing citrus aromatic cologne from Guerlain!

Starts out with juicy Amalfi lemon plus citrus fruit note, with gorgeous African orange flower adding a softening touch. Nice mint and rosemary spiciness fills in the heart of this scent, capped off with smooth lavender and crisp tones of cut green grass. (I detect cedarwood too, which is not mentioned in the above triangle of notes.)

Overall, I really enjoy this expertly crafted potion; Cologne du Parfumeur is prestige, and I enjoyed every bit of its elegance and quality construction. Thierry Wasser, the "nose" behind CdP, is to be commended for making a masterpiece that stands proudly in the already crowded aquatic scent arena.
22nd September, 2018

A Collection by Zara

Not sure that I like
Versachanel Pour Homme Sport
Édition Blanche.

Dry marine citrus
Just a litta bitta FUNK
Powdery off-white.

The whole and the parts
Alternative Zaraverse
Glad that it exists

But I'm still kinda
"WHOA MAN. That's some funky stuff!"
I think I like it.

Kinda like some dang
Junkyard Himalaya, some
"What da [a-z]{4} is that?"

Stainless steel monsta
'Luminum knotty pine-sol
"What the [a-z]{4}'s that - ART?"

And then you reckon
It made you wake the [A-Z]{4} up
So maybe it is.

But did it smell good?
You want to smell it again?
Then maybe it's good.

Mmmmm. Kinda funky.
You know this stuff ain't half bad
This (Zara|Polo) Red('s)? Sport.
22nd September, 2018

Cologne du 68 by Guerlain

These are the 68 apparent notes listed on the outside of Guerlain's Cologne du 68 fragrance:

Bergamote, green mandarine, lemon, clementine, cedrat, orange sanguigne, limette, grapefruit leaves, basil, enouil, star anis, lavande, laurier, cypres, elemi, thyme, myrthe, petit grain bigarade, Petit grain mandarinier, petit grain citronnier, Poire, Violet leaf,
feuille de lierre, gentiane, sève, cassis, freesia, muguet, feuille de noisette, cyclamen, cardamome, coriandre, poivre noir, baie rose, muscade, gingembre, jasmin, frangipanier, magnolia, orange blossoms, pivoine, rose, oeillet, ylang, lychee, figue, mure, immortelle, lentisque, opoponax, ambre, benjoin, vanille, ciste, heliotrope, iris, tonka, sauge, musc, patchoulì, agarwood, cedre, santal, vetiver, musc, vegetal, praline, myrrhe, lychen

A who's who of fragrance notes used in perfumery! Just checking out the individual notes in this list before trying out Cologne du 68, I knew that my subjective experience wasn't going to detect anywhere NEAR this number of notes, per se. Just like Commes des Garcons "Odeur 53 / 71" compositions - which also claim to contain their respective number of notes within - it all boils down to what one's perceptions "catch" and ultimately construct as the overall summary scent experience. By nature, such fragrances will glean many different responses from different sniffers, but the value in all of this is to see if any one, two, or more notes tend to be detected above the others.

To my nose, iris dominates, with its starchy, boiled carrot, earthy sweet quality. Underneath, I do catch citrus fruit, greens, spices and florals hitting me like a school of fish, moving and showing me different angles as they swim about. SLightly peppery and savory sage catches my attention more intensely than the other spices listed in the "68."

Every fresh, fruity, flowery, sweet, resinous, and spicy note I've ever identified in my life could potentially catch my attention; but such is not the case. As expected, Cologne du 68 ultimately feels unified, though inarguably layered and multifaceted. It is rich, full of character, and very distinctive in a landscape full of overdone styles of men's and women's scents.

In the end, I applaud Guerlain for this very daring potion, which is difficult to market given its complexity. I would end up wearing this once in a while - something I'd also say of, say, Serge Lutens "Chergui" unisex scent - when I want to smell different but still palatable around others.
22nd September, 2018

Coriolan by Guerlain

Hmmm....tried to like this one, but I would just say it's so-so, a men's cologne that I just couldn't connect with.

Guerlain's Coriolan has an interesting history, which is so well-reported by basenotes reviewer "Zealot Crusader." It's a fougere from the late 1990's, a time where fancy experimental fragrances were still legion.

As an Asian Indian, I am very familiar with the fenugreek cooking spice, used in so many appetizers, dishes and even drinks and desserts. It has an odor that wafts strongly in Indian grocery stores, characterized by a sharp, slightly bitter aroma. Immortelle flower (Helichrysum angustifolium) has a fenugreek spice odor in it, which is earthy and has some of the muted spiciness of curry powder and the muskiness of toasted bread.

I couldn't place it back then when I'd first sampled Coriolan, but it's this fenugreek smell that I wasn't too keen on which came from the immortelle. Even with the other more pleasing notes - ylang-ylang (not listed), juniper, nutmeg, coriander, and others - Coriolan feels convoluted and unrelatable for my tastes.


22nd September, 2018

Baby Guerlain by Guerlain

I actually sampled this many years ago out of curiosity at a local department store. It seems suited for either gender.

I remember it having a very delicate powdery, almost pistachio-like, quality, with a touch of musk. I'm not floored by it, and I don't know what the value is of a scent meant for babies that is now over a decade old. And there happens to be another baby-centered Guerlain, called Petit Guerlain, that folks can choose from as well.
22nd September, 2018

Aqua Allegoria Winter Delice by Guerlain

"Oh, the weather outside is frightful...."

A nice scent that works beyond Christmas time, Winter Delice has a really nice outdoors vibe with thoughtfully selected notes.

This is not an intense pine-balsam experience like Pino Sylvestres's Pino fragrance, and anyone seeking that will be surely disappointed. It appears to have several Christmas season elements incorporated into it to paint a holiday-like picture, like a thumbnail file showing several scenes from different times and occasions within that season.

There's enough fir-pine-balsam to touch on the Christmas tree imagery; and a sugar, vanilla and spice (asymptotically placed by the incense) vibe that may be touching on the confections of the season.

I can understand how this scent could alienate, confuse, or disappoint its samplers / wearers, because it boils down to the expectations and wishes brought in prior to smelling it. I applaud Guerlain for creating this festive fragrance which can be enjoyed all year round.
22nd September, 2018

Aqua Allegoria Teazzurra by Guerlain

Refreshing, relaxing, and balanced, Aqua Allegoria Teazzura (interesting name!) definitely has a moderate tea experience, with other elements of citrus, green and marine-atmospheric calone incorporated into it.

Unlike the more intense experience of Bulgari's green tea fragrances, AAT is more subtle, with a surprising splash of relaxing chamomile flowers adding its herbal-floral note. Jasmine puts a subtle aroma which slightly reinforces the green tea. Musk is light and tasteful, putting a bit of animalic appeal to this fragrance.

Teazzura seems suitable for men or women, the same way the the albeit more pungent unisex CKOne is as well. Distinctive and full of character!
22nd September, 2018

Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune by Guerlain

Another great showcase of Guerlain's expert craftmanship, Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune is a citrus peel blast that meshes artfully into a smooth, spicy and sweet accord of patchouli and vanilla. Cassis (Cinnamomum cassia) adds a dusty spice, and the petitgrain and neroli augments the intro tartness.

Juicy, mellow and well-made, AAP is so pleasant and energizing to wear for both genders. Great for warmer weather and for casual occasions at any time of day.
22nd September, 2018

Aqua Allegoria Lemon-Fresca by Guerlain

A very polarizing scent, this Aqua Allegoria Lemon-Fresca!

How a person responds to AAL-F by Guerlain seems very much influenced by their expectations of it: Will it be a lemony avalanche, a sour-sweet candy, a sorbet, a limoncello, a field of verbena and neroli, or ??? So one ought to clear their minds of any such wish / expectation when aprroaching AAL-F.

I did so, knowing what I would want from an "ideal" lemon citrus fragrance.

AAL-F is NOT an in-your-face treatment of the lemon note, thankfully. It is a thoughtfully crafted potion from the point of view of the artisan perfumer: Exploring the lemon concept along the lines of the aroma of the fruit's peel proper, its cousins bergamot and lime, the greenness of floral blossom, augmented by licorice goodness of anise and starchy, nondescript "woods" note.

It's a treatise, not a poster, of this most pleasant tart experience from several angles. It's fresh, pungent, aromatic, and a delicate treat overall.
22nd September, 2018

Aqua Allegoria Lavande Velours by Guerlain

What a lovely creation from Guerlain! Lavande Velours is unmistakably a scent that puts lavander center stage, with a healthy dose of aqueous violet to boot. Iris and sandalwood enter in accentuate the scent without overtaking the lavender.

A very relaxing experience, and Guerlain's expertise is so evident in AALV. Beautiful potion that really won me over!
22nd September, 2018

Aqua Allegoria Gentiana by Guerlain

Having been a big fan of Hermes Eau de Gentiane Blanche, I was curious about Aqua Allegoria Gentiana by Guerlain in comparison.

Guerlain's AAG is a now discontinued citrus-floral fragrance that contains the unique gentiana flower (the name is an ode to Gentius, an Ilyrian king who may have discovered the tonic properties of gentians). It is renowned as the primary ingredient in bitters and aperitifs; its usage in fragrances is certainly surprising, but apparently a credible affair.

In AAG, it has an herbaceous quality that is neither strong nor faint; it's green and a bit mossy, which along with the huge citrus opening salvo plus touch of moist pear and vanilla lead to a nice, bright scent that seems unisex in the end.

22nd September, 2018

Aqua Allegoria Figue-Iris by Guerlain

A light, fresh scent that seems fit for warmer weather.

Aqua Allegoria Figue-Iris has two notes which I have come to appreciate in other fragrances: Fig and iris. Iris is definitely present, with its boiled carrot earthy sweet goodness in balanced amount. Fig is there, though it's not front and center as I had originally expected; instead, it seems to appear in a more subtle form, without being too heavy.

Creamy, sweet and floral scent that is pleasant and can be worn by either gender.

22nd September, 2018
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