Perfume Reviews

Latest Perfume Reviews

Total Reviews: 148411

Trussardi (original) by Trussardi

What an unusual and practically unknown treasure! If you find Bandit or Knowing much too harsh and unrelenting in their odd bitterness, go to Ebay and scoop up this vastly more interesting and refined facsimile. Dry woods, greenery, incensed-smoke, and leather vie for top billing here in a most hushed and sophisticated manner. Completely unisex and utterly classy--a vintage chypre worth seeking out and wearing with black and architecturally structured clothing.
08th December, 2018

Prolixe by Histoires de Parfums

A gourmand I want to roll around in. This is not a super sweet gourmand, but a deep and spicy almost oriental gourmand. The opening fruit notes don't stay around long, it's the cardamom, saffron and the leather that have my attention. Creamy, chocolatey, vanilla swirls wrapped up in incense drifts like a spiced hot cocoa sipped being sipped while lounging on new leather chairs. I think I may be in love.
08th December, 2018

Forty Thieves by Fort and Manlé

Opens with a harsh scent reminiscent of opening a jar of pickled beets or piccalilli or something my Polish grandmother would have had lining her cellar back wall that she prepped that summer for the winter. Smell of ferment.

The harsh pickling notes really hang on tight and when they finally relent, it does settle to a very nice nectar notes and the incense smoke of the German 'smokers' with their multicolored multi scented seasonal cones.

Although Forty Thieves rounds out and the dry down is definitely marvelous, I shouldn't have to smell like ferment for an hour to get there.
08th December, 2018
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Outrecuidant by Histoires de Parfums

Spicy and someone ozonic/marine notes for me in the opening. Strange juxtaposition. Rose is hushed by oud, but that isn't necessarily a bad thing. Agree with speedracer in regards to the dryer sheet notes of the 'free and clear' variety. Mellows and rounds out nicely and has punchy longevity power. This is not one I would wear myself, but I would love to catch a hint of on another.
08th December, 2018

Mohur by Neela Vermeire

Sharp and floral opening that reminds me of walking into a tiled bathroom early in the morning and flipping the lights on - bright, stark, the cold floor, smell of floral hand soap and eggshell blue and white towels.

Mohur settles down into a plush buff-colored bathrobe that is comforting, warm, and relaxing. Settles into a cup of hot milky spiced tea.

Comforting, lush, and soft.
08th December, 2018

Do Son Eau de Parfum by Diptyque

THIS Do Son (the EDP) nearly had me running and screaming from Do Son (both the EDP and EDT). Thankfully, someone offered me a sample of the EDT, and my relationship with Do Son was salvaged - they really are two different scents - at least to my nose.

The EDP is a juggernaut of a tuberose and is nearly assaultive in its march up my nostrils. The other notes are normally wonderful - particularly jasmine - yet none seem to play quite well together - more like an assigned group project in middle school.

If the EDP doesn't thrill you, try the EDT - and believe it or not it lasts - I can still get some whiffs of the spray I placed on my left wrist last night. For an EDT, that speaks volumes!
08th December, 2018

Do Son Eau de Toilette by Diptyque

If you cannot stand the EDP, you have found the "right" Do Son. Never have two fragrances in different concentrations had such polarizing effects upon me. I am simply shocked.

The EDT (this version I am reviewing) is so beautiful and wearable, yet slightly challenging as a great piece of art might be. There is true beauty here, and it should be praised. The seeming simplicity is a triumph of sorts that supports the star, tuberose, in a way that doesn't shout, but elicits joy held close with love.

If you love Tuberose, and so far, you are unable or unwilling to pay for FM's Carnal Flower, this quite possibly might fit your craving. No, it is NOT the same, but it has the same quality, and the same attention to detail I keep hoping other Tuberose-centric scents would strive to obtain.
08th December, 2018

Addictive Arts : Chasing the Dragon Hypnotic by Clive Christian

Sweetish, immense incense opening. Swirling notes of pink pepper, elemi, bergamot, ginger, and of course, incense. Very dramatic. This one, was a blind-buy decant I knew I'd love.

The heart reveals spicy clove. I smell a little cherry. Touch of cinnamon. Fir balsam begins to rise. Basil and labdanum lie beneath. The heart is decidedly oriental. Sugary but not too much - incense that mingles with natural elements.

The base has some moss and leather; amber & myrrh. All of these notes mesh so well it is difficult to pick them individually. The name of this fragrance fits; although I do not "chase the dragon" as do the slaves to Miss H must, this IS a "hypnotic" fragrance indeed.
08th December, 2018

Beautiful Belle by Estée Lauder

Big lychee and floral top. Light orange flower and light gardenia in the middle. The tuberose is not too overbearing. I get musk and ambrox in the base. Somewhat sweet and smoky at the same time. I don't smell any iris at all here. Rather boring creation, for my taste. Too mainstream, too uninspired.
08th December, 2018

Lumière Blanche by Olfactive Studio

Spicy, floral opening. Lots of cardamom. Iris, almond, and cashmere in the heart create a feminine delight. The heart notes are mixed well. Cedar and Tonka stand out in the base. Creamy musk. Sharp sandalwood.

Pretty - nothing exceptionally outstanding here, in creativity. Good, safe workplace perfume.
08th December, 2018

Fleur Narcotique by Ex Nihilo

Sweet and sour fruit opening. Peach note doesn't overwhelm here. Sweet, gentle orange blossom. The bergamot seems to increase "in size". Something here reminds me of lavender. Peony and jasmine rise. Big, pink peony. Musk and a woody base. slight mossy note, too.

Three stars - it's wearable.
08th December, 2018

Arabie by Serge Lutens

Massive deluge of candied orange, dried figs, and dates. The head reels from this spiced musical. Nutmeg, clove, balsamic tones, resins - all continue to make my head spin. I adore this spice-bomb!

A hint of cumin and Tonka here are utterly delightful. I'm not a major fan of cumin unless it is well-blended or even hidden, amongst other notes.

Benzoin and myrrh create a smoky incense accord. There is an animalic, almost barnyard note underneath. Cedar and sandalwood, later. Arabie becomes a bit smokier with the incense vibe still lingering on hours later. A very rich, deep perfume.
08th December, 2018

Fleur de Thé Rose Bulgare by Creed

Creed Fleur de Thé Rose Bulgare (2000) often gets confused with Fleurs de Bulgarie (1980) because both are centered around rose, but while the latter is more in the Damask vein with green elements like galbanum to sharp it some, Fleur de Thé Rose Bulgare is decidely more old-fashioned with a focus on tea rose over ambergris. Creed doesn't produce pre-filled atomizers of this like most of their popular lines, so you'll have to go whole hog and buy a 250ml flacon, which isn't a ton more expensive than what Creed normally retails for, but to those who never usually pay retail for their Creed, poses a considerable investment. The story behind Fleur de Thé Rose Bulgare is similar to Fleurs de Bulgarie as well: a rich woman during the Victorian age writes whichever Creed patriarch was supposedly running the boutique at the time, asking for a realization of her experience with roses afer a honeymoon abroad in Europe. The key difference between this and the claimed original 1875 "vintage" version of Fleurs de Bulgarie is that the latter was supposedly commissioned by Queen Victoria herself, while this was commissioned by a former First Lady of the United States, which history does not corroborate since no US president from that era ever took a spouse on a honeymoon in Europe anywhere near the year given for the release of Fleur de Thé Rose Bulgare. My opinion is that Creed gets a bit rosy-cheeked (pun intended) about its own in-house floral absolutes, and loves to tinker with them every so many years, which is why there are so many "fleur or fleurs this or that" in their catalog to begin with, and it's this interest in experimenting that gives them their one legitimate connection to the niche perfume world.

Nonetheless, Creed's penchant for historical re-writes don't deride the quality of this scent, even if the 2000 date of "re-release" is really just its actual debut year. Whether historical re-creation or just an homage to the style of the period, Fleur de Thé Rose Bulgare is an extremely naked representation of rose, and even more naked than Fleurs de Bulgarie, Perfumer's Workshop Tea Rose (1973), or L'Ombre dans L'Eau by Diptyque (1983), which are among some of the most pure treatments of the flower I've smelled. Tea rose is carried over a dry cloud of bergamot, lemon, and mandarin hesperides. This trifecta of unsweetened citrus keeps the rose bouyant without adding too much else to it, although a small puff of Chinese green tea adds a delicate botanical facet which implies a garden more softly than the usual galbanum note would. A touch of jasmine hedione is also present, which further argues the credibility of the 1890 claim as hedione wasn't chemically isolated from jasmine until Edmond Roudnitska started using it widely in the mid 20th century. The base is ambergris, pure and simple. Some doubt Creed still handles and mascerates their own ambergris anymore, and while it is likely cut with high-quality synthetics in more-mainstream releases like Aventus (2010), here ambergris is present in all its harsh, pungent glory. You won't find ambroxan glow or norlimbanol scratchiness here, nor the syrupy composite "amber" note that many confuse for a proxy of ambergris. In fact, the ambergris itself is so strong and unfettered under the rose that it is the most challenging aspect of Fleur de Thé Rose Bulgare. If this was worn at the turn of the 20th century, it must have been one Hell of a serious entrance.

A rose this pure, this dry, and this emboldened by the earthy smell of ambergris is not one that will find an appropriate context in the 21st century, yet Fleur de Thé Rose Bulgare is Creed's best-selling Private Collection formula undoubtedly for the quality of such a presentation. This is a true rose lover's experience but even as a rose nut myself, I cannot say this is anywhere near a Holy Grail for the genre. People who like rose will be tested by its directness, and people who hate rose will subsequently hate you on days you wear this around them, as Fleur de Thé Rose Bulgare is about as unapologetic a rose fragrance as it gets without dipping into rose oud combos from the Middle East. The price this commands, the difficulty in procuring it, and the nuisance of needing to decant it into atomizers yourself (which Creed will be glad to sell you separately for a premium), means that I can only recommended Fleur de Thé Rose Bulgare to the hardest of the hardcore among either Creed or rose fans, but it is a wonderfully fundamental rose ambergris perfume all that notwithstanding. Rose is usually unisex to my nose, although conventional men used to their aquatic citrus woods and amber tonka stuff will probably find this girly, but decants are sold online for the exceptionally curious. Phoney history or not, Creed always knows its way around florals, and its representations of rose are always impressive, just not always the friendliest. Thumbs up!
08th December, 2018
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Rush of Unicorns by Parfums Vintage

Salty, fruity and floral, just like Millesime Imperial. This is so much closer to MI than Love & Luck or Unforgivable.

Good projection and longevity, much more so than MI. I don't like to get hyped-up about clones but this one is very close to the original but with better performance. If anything was slightly different, I'd say MI has a bit more rich, muskiness but that's just my personal opinion. A must try for anyone who loves MI.

Projects and lasts 10+ hours.
08th December, 2018

Galaad by Lubin

A transparent ghostly fragrance...i agree that the projection on this is horrible...pretty much a skin scent right from the me , in a nutshell , this is a honeyed cardamom/tobacco on a wooden base...nothing to get excited about...
08th December, 2018
jacona Show all reviews
United States

Ambar by J del Pozo

This is a really lovely scent where the citrus, tea, and amber notes all blend perfectly. It's very wearable, uncomplicated, nice for when you want a scent, but nothing particularly perfumey. My only issue with the one is poor longevity. This would have been even better as an EDP where all the delicious notes are even more present.
07th December, 2018
jacona Show all reviews
United States

Adam Levine for Women by Adam Levine

This was a blind buy for me and turned out to be a great cheap thrill scent. There is a hint of citrus in the top, but it is really all about spice, wood, and vanilla, well rounded and has a soft, cozy feeling to it. It's spicy oriental/gourmand. I was hesitant about a celebrity scent, but this is extremely well done.
07th December, 2018

Rose Atlantic by D.S. & Durga

Bottled Atlantic coastline.

I'm a native of Virginia Beach but no longer live there, so for years I was on the hunt for a scent to quench my nostalgia for the smell of the sea. On my skin, the bright pink tea rose only lingers for the first 30 minutes or so, which is fine because the brambles tucked in behind low dunes were mostly full of confederate jasmine and honeysuckle, not roses.

The heart of this perfume is a hyper-realistic impression of salty air, coarse sand, and sun-bleached wood. I immediately recall lifting sandy seashells to my nose and inhaling; there's a mineral, briny quality to Rose Atlantic that triggers memories of strolling the vacant coastline in early April. The air is crisp, sans any humidity, and the sky is clear and cloudless.

This is not a beachy perfume in the sense of warm, well-oiled bodies browning in the hot sun. DS Durga has captured the essence of the ocean, from the salt spray to the Loblolly pines dripping with Spanish moss. Lamentably expensive, but available discounted online, and a lovely reminder of a life I once lived and often long for.

07th December, 2018

Aloha Tiaré / Tiaré by Comptoir Sud Pacifique

Bright, sunny frangipani, tiare, and ylang; deep, rich tuberose, patchouli. A smoldering wood-like accord. An almost metallic note here. Almost, a green vegetable note. Weird. Perhaps it's the benzoin and musk tempering the floral sweetness? The "earthiness" is just beneath the "surface". Vanilla, hovers above.

The ylang ylang and tuberose become prominent once more, as this settles longer. I'm not sure if I'm smelling water lily here or not - it isn't strong, if I am. Overall kind of nice fragrance.
07th December, 2018

Osara by Henry Jacques

If you enjoyed perfumes like Gala de Loewe & Boucheron Boucheron in your 90’s, you will adore it has a perfect blend of flowers which never cloy nor suffocate. The dry down gets a little sweet which makes the experience very comforting.

A little oil goes a very long way...

Thumbs up!
07th December, 2018

New York Oud by Bond No. 9

A fruity and very rose flavored synthetic oud...but , a very good one...I really enjoy how this smells on me...a nice touch of honey enjoyable musky patch finish...projection is out of this potent. as the good old powerhouses....longevity is also very like...just caught a nice scent of vetiver working it's way into the mix...
07th December, 2018

Wood pour Homme by Dsquared2

Based on the notes listed and the perfumer, I had high expectations.
Clean, citrus opening with a small amount of ginger. Later, I can start to detect the violet leaves. No one note is dominant and that may be why I like this but not love it. There's nothing amazing because everything is subdued, which means this is very wearable and smells nice.

I'm reminded of how nice it smells every time I catch a whiff but I'm just not wow'd by it. Maybe that's what Morillas intended. Definitely not a woody scent, despite the name. Deep into the drydown it's violet and vetiver that come through.

Projection is average throughout. Longevity is very good, lasting 12 hours on my skin.
07th December, 2018

Charlatan by Fort and Manlé

Phenomenal longevity and prismatic overload of fruit, florals, and impressive chocolate. Constantly changing, one moment it's lush pears and amber, next it's vanilla and chocolate, or floral and almost an incense quality to it. Well named and stayed with me all day.

Currently the only perfume from Fort and Manle that has kept my interest and I would consider buying a small bottle of.
07th December, 2018

A Rose For... by Floris

Excellent incense laden rose...or rose for rose-haters. Not soapy, not sweet, very earthy and almost palm-reader tent like aura, very ethereal. Surprisingly laid back. Lingering traces of those German incense cones for the smokers in crisp winter air.

Longevity held strong for a good 4 hours or so. Excellent rose for men as well as women.
07th December, 2018

Musk Oil Black by Henry Jacques

This perfume is also called Nour in the Classic Collection by Henry Jacques.

It starts with heady Ylang Ylang...

More will follow...
06th December, 2018
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Jacinthe et Rose by E.Coudray

The floral opening - with the hyacinth being prominent indeed - is freshened up a bit by the influx of a lemony bigarade zestiness.

In the drydown the floral side wins out clearly, with jasmine, peony and touches of muguet resulting in a pleasant potpourri. This all is made smoother and creamier by an overlay of a pleasant ylang-ylang, and whilst being clearly on the sweet side of fragrances this mix is never too intrusive or cloying.

In the base a woodsy component is added, and the sweet character is deepened by an underlying carpet of a tonka impression.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and six hours of longevity on my skin.

A lovely spring scent for day and evening, it is not without an original touch, albeit lacking vividness at times. 3/5.
06th December, 2018

Sunset in Heaven by Parfums Vintage

I'm impressed with Sunset in Heaven as it is a very close match for Baccarat Rouge 540 by Maison Francis Kurkdjian. If I had to throw a percent, I'd say 90%+ similar. Cotton candy sweet and a little burned sugar to make it interesting.

Also, performance is quite good. I get 8+ hours of decent projection.
06th December, 2018

L'Homme by Yves Saint Laurent

Yves' parting menace
The Honey Melliflougère
Don't care what we think.
05th December, 2018

Floralie by Creed

Stardate 20181205:

A really nice floral with woody musk. A good balance between old style florals and new woods.
Longevity could be better.
05th December, 2018

Baccarat Rouge 540 by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

I can't believe I am writing a review for this stuff, given how much I hated this when I first tried it. I am no lover or liker of sweet scents, so my initial reaction is unsurprising.

This is really were perfumery breaks the boundaries of harvesting fragrance from flowers or extracting essences from natural sources. Baccarat Rouge 540 is pure and simple synthetic from top to bottom.

There is no development here. The scent is literally a very sweet candy floss note (caramelised brown sugar) with ambrox.

So why am I reviewing this scent? The answer is a very firm "I have no idea!". What I do know is that I just keep coming back to it. I still don't like the sweetness, but it is addictive and if it keeps saying to your mind "come back and smell me" it has to be a good thing.

I am holding back giving it top marks though as it has to be said that there is nothing natural about this. The marketing blurb suggests a note of saffron, but I simply detect a highly sweetened strawberry-like note. That's not saffron. It's a bit like how you get strawberry-flavoured yoghurts, which might well be pleasant, but taste nothing like strawberry, yet you keep wanting more.

That said and not being an oud fan, this is clearly one of the brand's better creations to my nose. Is it worth the asking price? I'll let you be the judge of that.
05th December, 2018