Perfume Reviews

Latest Perfume Reviews

Total Reviews: 144418

Polo Ultra Blue by Ralph Lauren

More fresh and zesty in the opening than EDT or EDP. Something salty or spicy.

Does not project like the EDT and does not have the depth of the EDP. Feels very summery and young throughout.

In the end, I wouldn’t have been surprised if Nautica had put this out smells like yet another Voyage flanker.

Longevity is below average, lasts maybe 4-5 hours and then fades away quickly.
14th June, 2018

Dark Rebel Rider by John Varvatos

Enjoyable when first sprayed on, drydown is headache inducing. Returned to store.

14th June, 2018

First Instinct by Abercrombie & Fitch

First Instinct is a summer appropriate, fresh fragrance that opens with a contrasting synthetic accord of tart citrus against a sweet powder musk accord. The sweetness reveals a slight watermelon aroma and the tart citrus connects to a bitter "violet" accord which gets buried in a base of soft musk and ambroxan. There are no natural aromas here in First Instinct - nothing in this scent has the ease and life giving aroma of an extract from any natural source, but the synthetic elements are nicely blended into an innocent and happy young scented fragrance. First Instinct smells really good from several feet away and is a more or less perfect summertime fragrance. Up close the synthetic nature has a sharpness that is not very pleasant. The projection and strength of the fragrance dies down quickly and loses all of the brashness of its opening flurry. The scent is a nice, easy to enjoy, fun fragrance that smells like a heavily sugared tart citrus and melon carbonated beverage that was converted to perfume. Not bad. I would rate it 6 of 10 stars.
13th June, 2018 (last edited: 14th June, 2018)
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Vera Wang for Men by Vera Wang

Vera Wang for Men was a surprising turn for the house at it's time of launch, since the designer almost exclusively caters to the fairer sex, but the point behind it was as a "wedding scent" for a man, while his wife-to-be wore the original Vera Wang (2002) and accompanying bridal finery. I'm not sure how well that worked, but there was plenty of bride and groom advertising for the stuff. Jean-Claude Delville and Harry Freemont from IFF made the original, and although no nose signed off for Vera Wang for Men, it also comes from IFF and I'd be unsurprised if they reprised their roles, since it feels like one of theirs (particularly Freemont). This is by all accounts a relatively modern take on an oriental/chypre hybrid, not being able to benefit from unrestricted oakmoss or animalics, and making up the difference with "freshness" notes lifted from ozonics of the day but dialed way-the-f**k-down so they fit in the genre context. There's definitely some sharper "treemoss" here, but overall is a very constrained modern effort riding along traditional lines. I like the stuff as the rare oriental-themed scent that I can pull off on a hot day, and because it's Vera Wang and not Dior, I can apply with abandon because replacement bottles are the price of a meal at Red Lobster.

Vera Wang for Men opens with a soft yuzu and "manadarin orange leaf" which I believe is just mandarin + galbanum, but it's a nice mix of sharp green and rounded citrus that comes across like somebody listened to perfumistos and kept the 90's/00's trendy yuzu accord from being nuclear by adding in some old-timey body. I also get a bit of a fig/peach ghost note, which is interesting. From here, our dapper groom-to-be in a bottle goes for nutty oriental spice, still restrained, still measured, and likely boring to the fan of more daring (and expensive) niche fare. Nutmeg, anise, cardamom, and a barely-there leather note keep it masculine but genteel, while a typical chypre base of sandalwood, treemoss (in proxy of oakmoss no doubt), a slight musk, and a lovely tobacco note. I'm getting mostly the sandalwood and tobacco by the end, and the overall composition reminds me of a lighter, sweeter, tobacco-infused modern take on Arden for Men Sandalwood (1957), which by 2004 would not be in line with the "fresh" trends still going strong since the early 90's. This also cross-pollenates to a degree with scents like Michael for Men by Michael Kors (2000) and Dolce & Gabbana The One (2008) because of it's tobacco presence, but it's really in a league of it's own.

Vera Wang to date hasn't made another masculine, and why should they? The house has dialed this in so perfectly as a modern gentleman's oriental citrus chypre (that passes IFRA by the skin of it's teeth), they honestly don't need another one. Once again, this is not exotic or daring, not loud or esoteric, and marries new and old school ideas, so purists will dismiss it, but as a potential signature for the even-keeled guy who wants a modern mature vibe, it's nearly perfect. My only complaint with this is it's performance, as many oriental and semi-oriental compositions from the period were "quieted down" so they could run in the same races as all the fresh fougères and aquatics of the day, but without the chemical oomph of the latter, can become invisible without over-spraying or applications to clothing. Vera Wang for Men might not be for the man that demands distinction, prestige, or individuality from his fragrance, but it's certainly for the man that loves being understated but memorable, just like the lovely bottle in which it comes. A nearly-classic and soft-spoken designer gem that may not get you hitched, but will see you through most of your day's commitments nonetheless. Bravo Vera Wang.
13th June, 2018

CH Men Privé by Carolina Herrera

This scent projects nicely with a smooth, soft lavender based traditional aroma. There is a pure sweetness and spice that reminds me of cinnamon sugar cookies at the opening. This sweet spiced accord has some slight whiskey leather complexity on its way to an herbal lavender and thyme toned tonka soft powder base. CH Men Prive is a well put together fragrance that will pair nicely with a suit and tie. Rated 7.5 of 10 stars.
13th June, 2018

Time to Draw the Raffle Numbers by 4160 Tuesdays

Stardate 20180612:

I do not like Cocoa. This one has cocoa. Tons of it. I think pyramid is wrong. There is no coffee.
When cocoa dies down you get ash tray.
And there is no marmalade here. The burnt stale toast has some Vegemite on it.
I do not like vegemite. And I do not like cocoa.

13th June, 2018
kewart Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Terre de Lumière by L'Occitane

Nothing ground-breaking here, that's for sure.
I have to douse myself in this to get any projection and the lasting power is very average. On my skin, the almond note is the most prominent and although very "nice" this is not a scent I would buy for myself (got it as a gift in the circular box.)
13th June, 2018

Gucci Guilty Absolute pour Homme by Gucci

I find Gucci Guilty Absolute pour Homme to be a missed opportunity more than anything else. Here is a fragrance by Gucci, after all those tiresome non-perfume entities, that merits at least a second sniff. It is a leather-vetiver scent, and quite far removed from everything else among mainstream perfumes. It starts off on skin with a lush note of medicinal leather. The leather is characterised by a particular medicinal character that hints at antiseptics and hospitals, and yet is oddly compelling, even brilliant. It is by no means an outlandish accord, but it is odd among mainstream perfumes, and hence the reaction. However, this leather accord doesn't persist and transforms into a vetiver dominated accord within an hour, which is largely nice but rather underwhelming after the initial phase. I do not detect any patchouli or cypress at any stage of development. I also find it to be extremely subdued on skin, and it practically disappears in about four hours. I do note that the dry down is soft and sensuous, and this can be an interesting office scent for people who wear stuff like Cuiron.

Gucci Guilty Absolute is definitely a breath of fresh air in a market saturated with clichéd fresh woody-ambers. It is innovative. However, it fails short of the mark personally, largely due to its potency/concentration issues. As an innovative leather scent it brings to mind Fahrenheit, but is rather tame in comparison. Leather vetivers are not that novel, with Bel Ami Vetiver being perhaps the most immediate example. In the context of medicinal leathers that push the envelope, it is comparable to Arte Profumi's Fumoir, which is pricier but more compelling. In fact, I recommend Fumoir to those who would find similar shortcomings in the Gucci. Gucci Guilty Absolute does not change the world of mainstream corporate perfumes, but it makes one more hopeful about positive change.

13th June, 2018

Elvis by Elvis Presley by Frances Denney

Elvis by Elvis Presley is an almost forgotten-about member of the first-wave celebrity scents that hit the market in the 1980's. Everyone from automakers to teen idols were getting the sense to market scents during the fragrance boom of the 1980's. Sadly, most of these were playing-it-safe affairs sold by downmarket labels like Avon or Revlon at best, or terribly-executed cash-ins from upstarts that just wanted to sell snake oil with somebody's name on it. Frances Denney was a relatively obscure cosmetics house founded by an Irish immigrant who moved to Philadelphia in the late 1800's, establishing what is touted to be the first American-based cosmetics house (something which is hotly contested by Avon under it's original name of California Perfume Company), but only had a series of minor hits throughout the years including stuff like Wild Rose (1940), Interlude for Women (1965) or Adolfo for Men (1981). Denney was on it's last legs as an independent perfumer and probably saw the contract to deliver Elvis by Elvis Presley (1989) as a good way to bail themselves out of trouble, which didn't happen and eventually history shows the house assets being sold off to The Stephan Company, who did who-knows-what with the properties. During it's launch, the scent was often promoted with Elvis impersonators at cosmetic counters of big department chains like JC Penny and included with greatest hits collections on cassette or CD, belt buckles, and other memorabilia. Nobody really knows how long it was made and when it finally was pulled from the market, but enough of it exists at reasonable prices despite nearly 30 years of age to indicate that it wasn't a hot seller, like most early celeb-perfumes. The only other male celeb perfume that I can recall sinking as fast as this probably did was the Billy De Williams Undeniable by Avon (1989), which also had zero input from the celebrity in question, even if he was very much living at the time.

Elvis by Elvis Presley opens with a rather shocking animalic bouquet, lying somewhere between the smooth Belle Epoch approach of Maxim's Pour Homme (1987) and the virile shriek of Balenciaga Pour Homme (1990), before settling into a mulled apple cider spice and tobacco. There's no note pyramid to assist in the journey from opening to skin scent, so I'll have to do the rare impressionistic breakdown and just describe what I get since I can't look for individual notes. The top is definitely bergamot and some kind of herbs, likely thyme and/or sage. There's a strong cinnamon note that presages the later Bogart Witness (1992) or Spark for Men (2003), but it's overtaken by apple, nutmeg, and ginger. The animalic that starts off loud in the open eventually simmers down and feels like a castoreum and civet double-wallop that eventually loses the fight against amber, tobacco, honeyed leather, and possibly a black tea note that crosses so many scents from before and after this was released it's ridiculous. The strong tea note feels like it could be something from Burberry, but the honeyed leather feels more like the first masculine from Ted Lapidus (1978) while the tobacco and amber pull towards Hugo Boss Number One (1985). All in all, it's just a jumble of power notes that each on their own could totally shape the personality of whatever masculine they're in, but together just exchange punches in a battle royale for control over your nose. Ironically, the concentration isn't the greatest on this scent, as it's an actual spray cologne and not an eau de toilette, so all this cacophonous masculinity is thankfully turned down and just remains a dull roar on skin after only a few hours. Over-application or shirt-sprays would fix this, but then you'd absolutely smell as loud as Elvis' costumes were gaudy towards the end of his career.

It's funny this died out because it is an Elvis product after all, and the fanaticism of his fanbase is eternal much like The Beatles so I'd have expected better turnover. By comparison, scents from musicians like Jay Z or actors like Antonio Bandaras seem to fly off shelves in the modern age. Maybe it took that long for Americans to lose distinction between a person's fame and why they're famous (hello Kardashian family), so anyone's name can be on the bottle as long as they have some sort of clout, even if they had nothing to do with the perfume inside, or in Elvis' case, weren't even alive to witness it's release? I don't know if the King of Rock and Roll would have worn this stuff, but it was sold as the "King of Colognes" too, which probably didn't do itself any favors outside the Elvis legion, since anything self-asserting is usually laughed at in this industry. Overall, Elvis by Elvis Presley is an odd but also oddly delicious little scent that tries to be everything a man could want in a bottle: strong, yet sweet; masculine, yet comforting; bold, yet approachable. It's just a pot lock of aesthetics in a bottle that makes it a bit of an animalic-fueled chimera. Elvis the cologne is certainly very 80's, unlike Elvis the singer, and it's right at home in collections of guys who like powerhouses, but just smells like so much other stuff off and on that it might only suit as a dumb grab for the guy that can't pick what type of 80's scent he wants so he picks the one that kinda covers all the bases. If Elvis had lived to see this come to fruition, I doubt he would have worn it, because his wardrobe was well-documented, and contained far more powdery fare like Brut (1963), Hai Karate (1967), and the occasional bottle of Zizanie (1932). Still, it's a cool little ambery animalic that I would have enjoyed regardless of who's name was on the bottle.
12th June, 2018 (last edited: 13th June, 2018)

Polo Blue Eau de Parfum by Ralph Lauren

Not as loud or screechy as the EDT which can become cloying quickly. Smells like it has more base depth, more rounded/refined than the top-heavy EDT. Still very "blue", fresh and clean like the original. Does have an AdG or AdG Profumo feel to it, minus the incense.

Interestingly, the EDT performs better, both in projection and longevity. However, the EDP smells better to me. Projects decently for about 4 hours. Skin scent that follows lasts another 3-4 hours.
12th June, 2018

RÒS by Caswell-Massey

Spicebomb Rose Extreme,
Your anise is the secret
That I cannot keep!
12th June, 2018

Skin Bracer by Mennen

Note: Review is of the aftershave.

I would give the disclaimer that I'm only familiar with the aftershave version of Skin Bracer; I haven't seen any cologne formulation, though I admit not having looked hard. Skin Bracer is a mentholated aftershave that does precisely what it claims: provides a cooling blast of menthol and tones and moisturises the skin. I perceive the menthol content to be comparable to that of Ice Blue, and higher than that of Ice Sport. The scent is rather nice and is structured as a two part story - an initial spark of menthol that is quickly followed by a fougere accord that soon dries down to a warm base with hints of coumarin-like sweetness. I am surprised to find no harshness in the scent, which could perhaps be due to low concentration. It reminds me of Brut, but is softer. I am also pleasantly surprised to find that Skin Bracer works excellently on my skin, as a toner and also for a bit of moisturisation. I find this to be a marginally superior product to its competitor Ice Blue, and it can be useful for pairing as an aftershave with traditional fougere scents like Brut, Paco Rabanne pour Homme or Azzaro pour Homme.

12th June, 2018

Aqua Velva Ice Sport by Williams

Note: Review is of the aftershave.

I am not aware of Aqua Velva Ice Sport being available as a cologne; the only format I'm familiar with is the aftershave, which one can pick up for cheap at US and Canadian drugstores. I am currently on a menthol kick and greatly loving the cooling effect mentholated aftershaves provide after a wet shave. I thought that Ice Sport would feature a higher concentration of menthol than its progenitor Ice Blue and went for it; surprisingly, it does not. If anything, I sense more menthol in Ice Blue. The scent is indeed fresher than Ice Blue, and features an accord that is not unlike the lemon-verbena accord in Green Irish Tweed. That does make me question my sanity for having purchased the Creed at hundred times the price of Ice Sport; the consolation is that the Creed is richer and deeper, as one would expect, and not unreasonably. Ice Blue has a nice touch of warmth in the dry down that Ice Sport lacks, and other properties (astringency, moisturisation) are no better than those of Ice Blue.

All in all a largely superfluous product, but perhaps some consumers appreciate the variety.

12th June, 2018
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Memoir Man by Amouage

The vintage version is brilliant. Amouage dared to release an anti-oriental that speaks less of Arabian deserts and 1001 nights than of casting runestones and burning bittergreen herbs to the mumbling of stave rhymed incantations under an ashen Icelandic sky. That bittergeen punch of minty green wormwood contitutes a formidable and memorable opening, more restrained than Josh Lobb would have it, but still with quite some punch. Ashy incense and wood emerge from the Nordic brushwork, brooding and craggy, unhospitable but of sublime beauty like a landscape of fjords and stony peaks. A good one for cool, moody days by the grey, windswept sea.

The watering down of Memoir Man in its current incarnation utterly destroys this marvelous effect and turns Thor into a weekend LARP-jerk.
12th June, 2018

Fierce by Abercrombie & Fitch

You cannot unsmell
This charcoal gray three-piece suit
Mall-rat stud T-shirt.
12th June, 2018

Up the Apples & Pears by 4160 Tuesdays

Stardate 20180612:

A quintessential 4160 Tuesday. Has that Blue Raspberry note and white musk. Some vanilla/cream. Don't get any beer, gin, rollups, bread,pear and whatever else Sarah thought looks nice on the pyramid.
I like it
12th June, 2018

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Fanny Bal by IFF

Stardate 20180612:

Gag inducing top. If I was not late for work I would have scrubbed it off. Synth Choco Hazelnut. Really bad.
But within 10 minutes that stench dissipates and all you get is text book amber and some ylang.
Really boring. It seems some AC from IFF were just slapped together.
Monkey on typewriter would do better
12th June, 2018
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Parco Palladiano III by Bottega Veneta

The opening blast excluludes brightness, minty indeed but the mint is enhanced by a nigh bergamot-like gentle freshness. Soon in the drydown a green and grassy undertone develops, with the occasional herbal characteristic being thrown in.

Later in the heart notes a creamy fruitiness gradually comes to the fore, a pear impression with elements of a restrained peachiness coming and going. In the base woodsy touches are present towards the end.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and six hours of longevity on my skin.

This summery composition is a bit on the simple side structurally, but not without some originality. Whilst not complex, it is blended well, and avoids excessive sweetness as well as too blatantly synthetic notes. Nothing too special, but crafted solidly. 3/5.
12th June, 2018

Elephant by Zoologist Perfumes

Fresh. Dewy green. Creamy, milky jasmine note. Sweet wood. The base smells slightly earthy; still always green. The tea note mingles well with everything. Unisex for sure. Stunningly beautiful.
12th June, 2018

Boss Selection by Hugo Boss

Let the scent with no
Pleasant mediocrity
Wet the first scrub brush.
12th June, 2018

Sauvage Eau de Parfum by Christian Dior

I find this a less abrasive version of the EDT. I really like the EDT although I have yet to buy a bottle. I find the EDP version to be much more soapy to my nose at the start. It does dry in line the with EDT about 2 hours in on my skin. I like it but not as much as the EDT. Try before you buy of course.
11th June, 2018

Bergamot, Jasmine & Labdanum by Dame Perfumery

Stardate 20180606:

The moment I sprayed this I knew this is something special. It has the vibe of old school well done fragrances.
Starts with bergamont and something sweet (probably labdanum). Mids get a bit floral. Can't pick out Jasmine per session but I guess that must be the floral I smell.
Drydown is floral musky sweet. Lasts long. Develops well.
My first from Dame and I am impressed
11th June, 2018

Ed Hardy Man by Christian Audigier

Ed Hardy Man is the first masculine from a briefly high-end house formed mostly by the late fashion mogul Christian Audigier, using tattoo artist Don "Ed" Hardy's name and iconic imagery. Later on Mr. Hardy would take back control of the house after he saw the massive failures of the label in Audigier's hands, taking it down to more of an upper-middle class brand and ditching the concept of brand boutiques. The fragrances remained with Audigier until his death, and now his stable of brands, along with Ed Hardy, is handled by EA Fragrances. Olivier Gillotin was assigned to work on this, and would also compose a few subsequent masculines thereafter, and while he struck gold on some of them, his sometimes unorthodox note pyramids often land his creations in divisive territory. Ed Hardy Man seems to be just a toe-dip into the pool by comparison to future scents from the house, as it is thoroughly and utterly by-the-book safe in it's mixture of citrus top, minty middle, and warm amber vanilla woods base. There isn't much to really say beyond that, as it is a pretty cut and dried affair, just with a fancy tiger on the bottle and neat cap-over-bottle sheath design reminiscent of Avon Deep Woods (1974) and Calvin Klein Contradiction for Men (1999).

Ed Hardy Man opens with bergamot, mandarin orange and clary sage, which is a semi-oriental opening, and fairly typical of the style from the time, with stuff like Dior Homme (2005), Dolce & Gabbana The One for Men (2008), Paco Rabanne 1 Million (2008), and Hypnôse Homme (2007) all hitting the streets with similar vibes. The primary difference between Ed Hardy Man and it's semi-oriental or oriental cousins is it's a much simpler composition, and much softer as well. It certainly has more projection than the infamously-quiet Dolce & Gabbana The One for Men, and will actually be a suitable day scent in fall or early spring weather, but like most things in this category, is pretty much meant to be romantic or for evening use, because of it's creamy ambiance. The Mint middle is what really makes Ed Hardy Man perkier than most of it's competition, as it's a bright peppermint that recalls scents like Avon Perceive for Men (2000) or Dirty by Lush (2004), just much more gentile in the dry down. The bergamot, mint, and sage are what keep the orange and vanilla from being too cloying, so I can appreciate the simple balancing act that Gillotin has put on display here. The base of amber, vanilla, and the generic Iso E Super/Karmawood synthetic base sort of speak for themselves: they're at once sweet, thick, but then semi-dry as everything settles down into an orange/mint/vanilla glow, which is pleasant and nice to rub one's nose into during intimate contact, which is where I imagine this was constructed to perform most.

Ed Hardy fragrances were once sold in their boutiques only and carried really hefty price tags, at least for the average Joe who's aesthetic the label was intially trying to package for the haute bourgeois, and back in those days I would have told you to spend your money on a good Chanel or Dior instead of this. Once Ed Hardy took back the reigns from the man who also pushed Von Dutch into the limelight, he opened up these scents to mass marketing and lowered their price to more mid-tier designer levels, which is still too much for what they are, but a fair sight better. Nowadays, they're everywhere from your local perfume shop to the nearest big box store, with prices often below $20, which actually makes this a good drugstore-ish value and recommended buy if you like anything in this sweet semi-casual/semi-romantic category but don't want to splurge. The tacky Ed Hardy signature and tiger tattoo adorning the slip-over sheath cap do kind of make it hard to take this one seriously, so if you're in more refined company, best not let them see the bottle if they like the scent, and just tell them what it is instead of showing them (although I like tacky). Ed Hardy Man feels too safe, synthetic, and by-the-books for most perfumistos, but as a dumb grab kind of thing when you want something that's not deliberately fresh, sophisticated, or complex, but just plain cozy, this may be the big cat you're seeking.
11th June, 2018

Madame Rochas (original) by Rochas

A Vintage sample.
yellowtone sent me a few samples of some great scents.
In particular, Madame Rochas had me drawn back to events in my childhood.

In the 60's as a young boy, my world was full of beautiful women, wearing largely Shalimar, Emeraude, Cabochard and the occasional Chanel.
One day, a girlfriend of my mother, a Redhead wearing bright Red Lipstick and a Green Silk dress walked in. She grabbed me up and planted kisses all over my face. She then pulled my face right in to her full bosom. It was scented with this gorgeous stuff. I melted into her arms.

To quickly, her and my mother were off to some Girl's night out.
Since the age of 4, I've wanted some of more of that.
A small bottle of Vintage is on the way.

Oh yes. When you sniff through all symphony of notes, you may notice the hum of the Rose Sandalwood marriage.
That very thing that had me, quickly adopt the chic Rive Gauche as a Signature, alongside my young beautiful girlfriend in the 70's.
11th June, 2018

Dreckig bleiben by PMP Perfumes

This puppy goes through some rapid changes on me...when i first popped open the sample vial and put my nose to it , it was like smelling some beaker or test tube in the old chemistry class...pretty much the same with the first few seconds on the skin...then citrus rinds tossed on a fire somewhere between a campfire and an electric some nice resiny wood smoking away , but there's also that smell of toasted wiring mixed in there...then , a sudden appearance of pure fresh citrus for a short spell....for the rest of the ride things get woody and resiny with some nice dry vanilla thrown in for good measure...throw and lifespan are nothing to brag about...interesting to sample and explore , but that's about it for me...
11th June, 2018
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Parco Palladiano IV by Bottega Veneta

This one starts out on a floral note, with azalea the main contributor; but a general undertone of white floral notes carries over well into the drydown.

In the second part a woodsy component arises, which takes on characteristics of chestnuts and maroons at times. Later on a pleasant vanilla is added on, and the latter develops into the main component in the base, remaining prominent until he end.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and eight hours of longevity on my skin.

This scent for warmer autumn days and evenings is quite simple but not without some creative thoughts. Is it of a nice creaminess, and the sweetness is well balanced and never too sweet or cloying. It is somewhat linear at times, but it is well blended and the quality of the ingredients is quite high. 3.25/5.
11th June, 2018

Eternity for Men by Calvin Klein

This fragrance I still like to a degree.In my eyes as cheap as Eternity for Men is now? that's the logical price tag.$70 for this back in the day was offering an 'innovative' scent that while refreshing and good for sring,summer,casual,and formal wear showed itself also capable as being just as synthetic as cheap colognes.

From Eternity for Men I don't get any basil or sage...but I do vetiver.Very transparent citrus and white soapy lavender fizzed with a slightly aldehydic edge attacking the grassy vetiver and leaving their trail behind as they spread cleanliness throughout.Sandalwood compliments a faint warmth to this which I think without it? could show more edge...but it's a calming touch to Eternity.Something in the mid between the vetiver soapy side and the's fruity sweet and transparent.Comes off grape candy and/or melon's 'Calone'.Mixed thoughts about this synthetic note but the exact shaping of it doesn't make me think of something original of Eternity.This element I remember in Iron by Coty which pre-dates Eternity for Men.That was the first thought that hit my mind.

A decent fragrance but with how sharp but transparent it is through the citrus and calone it causes one to overspray because it doesn't one as potent.Go easy on this stuff because for some it causes headaches,for me it causes me to constantly swallow.Almost like an early detection sign of a case of acid reflux coming on.

11th June, 2018

Ma Dame by Jean Paul Gaultier

I had no idea what to expect from this one. I blind-bought it. Glad I did. On me, this goes from one note to the next. Orange gives way to rose, melts into grenadine, mellows into musk. The cedar in the base is just right. I find cedar can overwhelm or even destroy a base by its strength. Overall this Gaultier is sublime.

The bottle is damn cool.
10th June, 2018

Nina (new) by Nina Ricci

I have the 10th anniversary bottle called Nina Pop. It has the same notes. This is a citrus fruity floral that isn't as over-bearing as some. I enjoy the lime, lemon, and apple combo. It has enough peony and datura to balance out the fruit. I don't get any cedar on the base - just a musky scent. The praline-like sweetness makes this somewhat "immature". I don't care. It's fun and shouldn't be taken seriously.
10th June, 2018

San Remo by Geo F Trumper

I find this very odd. A somewhat cloying eau de cologne with much more amplified performance than one would expect from this level of concentration, it bears next to no relationship to the English-style colognes produced by Trumper nor indeed by any other established English house (no obvious comparisons can be made with any masculine at least by Truefitt, Floris, Anglia, or Czech & Speake, although there might be something among the feminine scents by these houses). The blurb rather speaks of a Mediterranean influence, and suggests "Palm Trees, Cactuses, Carnations, Begonias and Roses", not so much as notes, but influences. The first thing that came to mind for me was not such much southern Europe as California, and I would say that San Remo suffers very much by comparison with the best of, say, the Acqua di Parma and Tom Ford ranges that also play on this kind of influence.

It is extremely sweet and extremely floral, with a touch of the flaccidity that can be found in the likes of Xeryus Rouge. Palm trees - well, perhaps, if I had an idea of what that would be in a personal scent. There could be a touch of musk in there; certainly something does do a fixative job of holding the florals together.

The odd thing is, I like the scent, but have no idea what its purpose is. Having done my duty and tested SR for review purposes, I won't be wearing it again. I wouldn't use it as a room scent. I wouldn't want it as a shower gel or bath soak. But for some reason, it's cheerful and puts a smile on my face. It's good that Trumper has done something new with the cologne format, but I can't honestly say that this is a creative success in my book. There are too many well-grooved formulae to try before anything this outre needs to come along.
10th June, 2018