Perfume Reviews

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Total Reviews: 138397

Prada La Femme by Prada

What's with the Shi effect in this? Ozonic tuberose? Not to my taste, I think it's a bit of a mish mash, a little bit Amarige, a little bit Cinema, and the Shi by Sung. It's not awful, the less Intense is, well, less intense.
22nd September, 2017

Blackpepper by Comme des Garçons

Blackpepper opens with one of the best notes of crisp, freshly cracked black peppercorns on the market. This lasts for about 30 min, and fades into a lightly sweetened, dusty/smoky cedar accord that's very pleasant, soft, dry and versatile. It smells great. The base is indeed reminiscent of Wonderwood, which is a good thing.

Unfortunately, it's a skin scent after about an hour, and has faded to near imperceptibility within 2-3 hours.

So although I think the pepper note is a great addition to the Wonderwood base in terms of smell, I have to advise sticking with the predecessor based on longevity, and cannot in good conscience give a thumbs up.
22nd September, 2017

Green Man by Body Conjure

Nice transparent coniferous presence in the opening. Also a noticeable eucalyptus note as well, but not overly so. This has a high desert conifer smell to my nose. Reminds me somewhat of Olympic Orchids Arizona, but is much smoother and not as sharp as Arizona, although there is a slight turpentine presence to Green Man. I also notice a gorse/ground cover feel to it as well, probably from the sage, but I must say this is a very nice coniferous/green fragrance. Dry in aspect similar to Dior's Granville, without the "corn chip" vibe I get from Granville. Green Man as I said has a dry aspect as opposed to a wet, sappy presence, a smoky coniferous presence, or a sweet coniferous presence prevalent in many other conifer offerings on the market. Not that there's anything wrong with any of those styles of coniferous fragrances. I love so many of them in one way or another. I got the alcohol based sample and I must say that I'm very pleased with Green Man...more than I thought I would be. The one slight draw back is longevity, but this is an essential oil/natural type fragrance. Based on that fact, it actually has good longevity. After 6 hours I could still slightly detect GM with nose to wrist. Excellent job by Greg Wharton and Body Conjure. Green Man is definitely bottle worthy in my book!
22nd September, 2017
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Swanky Show all reviews
United States

Dusk by Herban Cowboy

Dusk is more interesting than one might expect from a fragrance on the shelves at Whole Foods Market. It manages to avoid the common trap of disintegrating into a cheap pseudo chocolate or vanilla mess. It also avoids too much of a headshop vibe; I don't feel like a cast member of Dazed and Confused while wearing this. I agree with the previous reviewer that there is an old-school aspect to this; middle-schoolers might not connect with it. That said, it's certainly not inaccessible and it's a pretty good value for the price.
22nd September, 2017

Ferme tes Yeux by JAR

This is an animalic-lover's wet dream (or maybe just mine). Either way, this is the pinnacle of lush, opulent, gorgeous danger--a panther silently stalking through a dense and fuggy jungle of stargazer lilies, jasmine, and yang-ylang. The vegetation is overripe, decadent, and civet-laden thanks to the menagerie of musky mammals hidden in the foliage. Think Rousseau and Gauguin's jungle paintings brought to luxuriant, odiferous life. I adore this scent and will never own it since it is FAR beyond my (or any normal person's) price range. One of the most beautiful and sad realities of my perfumed life.
22nd September, 2017

Aqua Allegoria Nerolia Bianca by Guerlain

This is the first non-vintage Guerlain I've smelled and I must say that I am not impressed. The fact that this sample accompanied a decant of ancient and gorgeous L'Heure Bleue didn't help. Wearing the two Guerlains on opposite wrists was like having a threesome with Daniel Day-Lewis and Huey Lewis. The comparison was, indeed, odious. The AANB is highly citric and smells like neroli and petitgrain and about a hundred other similar fragrances touted as antidotes to the summer heat. If a ubiquitous and feminine citrus fragrance is what you're after, then is probably as good as any, and undoubtedly a bit better than most. After all, it is a Guerlain.
22nd September, 2017

Dior Homme Cologne (2013) by Christian Dior

I'm very surprised people like this so much and it has so many positive reviews. The opening is nice enough but it rapidly becomes a sour, acrid, rancid smell like a downtrodden laundromat without air-conditioning on a sweltering summer's day, it's almost gagging. Of all the fragrances I've tried this may be my least favorite and this is coming from someone who owns a bottle of Bijan.
21st September, 2017

Donald Trump The Fragrance by Donald Trump

Average, generic smelling scent that went straight to the bargain bin. I remember seeing this at Ross and TJ Maxx for super cheap and it just sat there. What's really appalling is that they completely ripped off the bottle design from Lauder for Men, which was a fantastic scent! Not that I was ever expecting anything original or tasteful from this self obsessed imbecile, but to blatantly copy the design of Lauder for Men for his bland smelling swill is just simply unacceptable. And for the record, tRump the fragrance smells nothing like Lauder for Men (vintage).
21st September, 2017

Monsoon by Dame Perfumery

Jeffrey Dame put together a very nice iris-focused fragrance. In the vein of Guerlain Apres L'Ondee, but a bit more reserved and less delicate. It replaces floral with woodiness and pushes this in the direction of clean wet soil. Very earthy and a little somber - suitable for office as well as evening wear. Excellent work.
21st September, 2017

Aoud Vanille by Mancera

A rich, woody, high performing borderline gourmand that strikes a nice balance between a vanilla cookie and a pile of lumber. The wood has a dry, almost-dusty natural smell, a mix of oud and other varieties like guaiac, sandalwood, and cashmeran. The vanilla is well-proportioned, not of the cotton-candy, sugary variety but a little darker and drier, and it helps to maintain a relatively mature feeling Aoud Vanille. This one projects and lasts extremely well--I use 2 sprays on my chest and it still gets well out there for hours. At one point I owned about 8 or 9 Mancera fragrances. This is the only one that I still own. I consider it among Mancera's best and one of the more impressive releases in general in recent years. I would rate this a solid 8 to 8.5 out of 10.
21st September, 2017

Les Trésors De Sriwijaya by Auphorie

The chance to try a new Auphorie creation is something that causes me great anticipation. This is a house that offers novelties and challenges to intrigue the most jaded nose, and even when one of their extraits isn’t quite my thing it still seems to glimmer with enough olfactory jewels to command admiration.
Les Trésors de Sriwijaya is at first glance as ambitious as anything they’ve done, and pulled off with the same sure hand, though the later stages are somewhat more conventional. The opening – which speeds by far too soon – is mouth-wateringly fruity floral, but in a purely tropical interpretation, bursting with sunshine and the lovely golden accents of frangipane and ylang paired with luscious yellow fruit.
The transition starts almost immediately, with the florals taking on a glassy transparency and lightness, which seems to be an Auphorie signature, dancing at the front of stage, while in the background a whole orchestra of woody musky tones plays – but with extreme gentleness and subtlety. The declared notes list may contain a string of smoky and resinous heavy hitters, but they don’t present themselves in any overtly discernible way to my nose.
In its middle phase Trésors is, strangely enough, probably the most conventional perfume Auphorie has released – a sophisticated mixed floral with a quiet woody backing, its antecedents are in classical perfumery. The whole thing is sheer and in the drydown, as the notes merge, verging on the abstract. This is not to discredit it, as it definitely has the seemingly effortless class that this style of perfume lives or dies by. It just doesn’t open up new realms in the way other Auphorie offerings have done.
But the drydown a good three or four hours into the wear disappoints. The perfume undergoes a kind of condensation and reads like a mix of candied peel and essential oils. Still pleasant to wear, but ducking below the high bar set by this house.
21st September, 2017

Mousse de Chene 30 by Le Labo

Le Labo Mousse de Chene 30, the latest City Exclusive, translates to oak moss, and oakmoss is unsurprisingly the strongest note of the lot, though I do get some of the patchouli and a lot of greenness.

It's not terribly deep or complex to my nose, though, and it's possible I'm simply missing out on its greatness but for the most part it's easy to like, but difficult for me to love.

It's pleasant to wear, very agreeable, and versatile, likely working for men/women, summer/winter, night/day.

The updated City Exclusive pricing ($300 for 50ml, $460 for 100ml) is unsurprisingly untenable for most except for the most beloved fragrances, and in this case, I'm disinclined to pursue it further for that reason, as agreeable as it is.

7 out of 10
21st September, 2017

Figment Man by Amouage

After a somewhat choking opening of damp, mulched earth, Figment Man begins to transition quite swiftly. It’s another bold, statement perfume in the manner of the Myths duo, and thus will no doubt divide, nay cleave, wearers.
What unfolds after the dig-my-grave opening statement is an assemblage of soil and foliage smells of shifting textures, behind which one senses rich and greasy floral notes in the mould of Amouage’s grand Gold Man. Here, they seem to always lie just behind the chiaroscuro front of steaming forest soil, snapped twigs and crushed greens. There are refreshing notes in the mix – a dash of lemon and a clean vetiver – that inject some air into what would otherwise be quite a close and forbidding composition.
Amouage market this one as a ‘luminous sandalwood’ – if that’s the case its light is well and truly hidden by the murk in the foreground, because by no stretch of the imagination (maybe that’s why it’s called Figment) would a wearer alight on sandalwood as the presiding deity here. It’s only after a prolonged swampy stage (poisonous greens, the earth notes now positively soaked and squelchy, with a hint of salty resins), when the shape of the thing is dissolving, that a sweetish, woody base becomes apparent – we’re talking a good six hours into the wear.
Figment Man is pretty rad, I’ll give it that, but by that same measure challenging to wear.
21st September, 2017
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Bracken Woman by Amouage

The green floral excursion at the start of Bracken Woman marks something of a new departure for Amouage, despite the existence of Myths Woman. Whereas the latter had the trudge of a goth weighed down with trinkets, Bracken opens with the vitality of a skipping spring lamb.
The evocation of a clearing of bracken/fern is juxtaposed with the cut stems and mixed florals of a good florist’s shop – this is green done in a manner that is both energetic and fresh and yet with a sheen of refinement. There is an intensely sweet but well-contained note in the mix resembling rose geranium – it intrigues among the greens and offers instant contrast like a daub of postbox red in a Hodgkin painting.
The evolution is quite dramatic but happens in stages as Bracken Woman goes from vivid verdancy to a much creamier, more abstract composition. It is now soufflé-light, with aquatic elements, powdery ‘wood’ aromachemicals, maybe a touch of lily of the valley entering into the mix. I found it a pleasure to wear from start to finish, though the vibrancy of the first few hours was what really caught my attention. It’s possible that once I have worn it a bit more, the soft focus of the latter stages will grow in my affections.
21st September, 2017

Blossom Love by Amouage

Amouage goes soft focus in an array of bleeding pinks with this one which takes a Tocade-like floral haze, imparts it with a tart fruitiness, and then lets gourmand notes of sweet almond and tonka seep through it. So, pretty much like a designer fruity floral with candied gourmand undertones then? Well, yes and no.
While I am sure an approximation could be reached by layering a couple of well-chosen drugstore perfumes, the first couple of hours deliver a seamless blend with a silken ooze about it that lifts it a cut above. It’s mainstream, gentle and dreamy, notwithstanding an off-putting scented eraser rubberiness, and an easy and lazy wear.
After that, however, it deflates completely, turning into a vague candied smear on the skin, indistinguishable from the kind of stuff that sells in chain stores for 20 bucks.
21st September, 2017

Aoud Legend by Montale

Another head-turner in Montale’s endless array of oud variations. What first struck me about Aoud Legend was the feel of the thing, intensely woody yes, but with a compelling caressing effect that seemed to be smoke turning into powder. It’s big and brassy but its endearments are tender.
Although incense is one of the listed notes, the smokiness of this perfume has more in common with cypriol, but whereas that ingredient can become overbearing, here it seems rendered in a frozen, crumbling-to-powder kind of way. The woody notes are rich and bitter (a dab of saffron in the mix), with a subtle leather accent. The sweeter blandishments of this perfume (rose, patchouli) are contained within this woody, even somewhat mouldy front and appear as soft light filtering through a Moroccan lantern.
Disappoints a bit in the deep drydown when it becomes somewhat muddier and resembles too closely other woody Montales in their late stages.
21st September, 2017

Wall Street by Victor

stardate 20170921:

Leathery, piney old school masculine.
But not too loud. Good for all scenarios and folks including vespa riding, non-fat, vegan, half cal frapuccino drinking , no-sock wearing folks. Sorry Dandydude.

21st September, 2017

D&G La Force 11 by Dolce & Gabbana

This is an oddball. I like oddball perfumes. It is a spicy food market, located near a head-shop. First I get a blast of cardamom and cinnamon followed by nutmeg. The pimento really stands out for awhile. I barely get any heliotrope or cypress. After a few hours I smell sandalwood, vanilla, and caraway. It's definitely different. It's cheap enough for over-spraying, when it begins to die. IMO it's more masculine than feminine.
21st September, 2017

Y by Yves Saint Laurent

No originality, no performance, no effort into creating this pathetic scent. The name is absolutely perfect, because as soon as I sniffed it, I asked why?
21st September, 2017

Eau des Merveilles Bleue by Hermès

I love it! To me, this is by far the best of the EdMs. It is fresh although there isn't any citrus listed in the notes, and you really feel like being close to the sea. Not the Mediterranean, more like the North Sea or the Atlantic. It took me quite a while to like it so much because it is something like a quiet masterpiece. And, best of all: It is a marine aquatic but stays on my skin so much longer than the classical EdM, which other ones could smell, but not me. A truly uplifting perfume!
21st September, 2017

Vetiver by Shimy Brothers

The Shimy Brothers Perfumery of Cairo produced fine perfumes in exquisite flacons during the time period between 1906 and 1920. They emblazoned the words "The Artistic Perfumers" either on bottles or presentation boxes. These were created and sold in Cairo, Port-Said and Luxor.

The perfumes were compounded in Egypt, but the exquisite bottles were imported from Czechoslovakia. They were decorated with rich gilding and vibrant enamels of Egyptian gods and goddesses, or stylized Egyptian motifs.

Most unique is the fact that Shimy used no alcohol to dilute their fine oil compositions. The scents were rubbed into the skin and being so dense, became one with the wearer.

Their Vetiver oil smells like no Vetiver I've ever been exposed to. No green leaf notes, no sharp pungent root notes, this is an entirely different plant from what we are used to in perfumery.

This is dark, resinous, deep and smooth, with a certain leather-like warmth to it. It reminds me of so many bases in classic chypre compositions from the 1920s, 1930s and 1940s.

I must wonder if what Egypt knew as Vetiver was an entirely different plant than that known to Europe, or at least a relation with a deeper, richer botanical past.

Shimy Brothers' Vetiver is a treasure to be sought by all serious collectors of vintage perfumes.
21st September, 2017

Heliotrope Blanc by Roger & Gallet

Heliotropin was discovered in 1869. Its synthesization into the "sweet pastry cream" note of the Heliotrope flower, for which it is named, made this scent available to perfumers for the first time. It was already in use by the 1880s. Heliotropin occurs naturally in a range of botanicals and is used for vanilla or almond accords. It also possesses powdery, floral aspects. Amazingly, this does not occur in the heliotrope flower itself, so cannot be extracted.

Heliotrope Blanc was a popular soliflore scent in the late 19th century and early 20th century. The Perfume Encyclopedia lists 20 Heliotrope Blancs up to 1920 with the following the most significant: Legrand (1886); Guerlain (1890); Lubin (1893); Coudray (1907).

Roger & Gallet's version is heavily laden with almond, with hardly any detectable vanilla. It is very dry and has a certain herbal edge to it, which keeps it from appearing too cloying and sticky sweet. I believe it is the astringent lilac note that provides this reigning in.

Oddly enough the fluid is dyed red, an odd choice for a "white" flower representation. A very nice take on the beautiful, dainty summer poesy it is named after.
21st September, 2017

Cuir by Plassard

I could find nothing about this scent on the internet, with the exception of its year of release. As such, the review is going to be based solely on interpretation of the olfactory experience without professional guidelines.

I have experienced seven Cuirs/Cuirs de Russie to date: Chanel; Lancôme; Floris; Bienaime; Guerlain; Piver; and now Plassard.

The scents have ranged from brutally masculine with birch tar prominent, to sweet and new (the scent of Italian leather jackets and new auto upholstery), to the comforting warmth of a new leather belt. The Plassard resembles none of these.

It is a complex mixture of unidentifiable florals (excepting rose and jasmine) and the softest, most buttery leather. The leather element projects, but close up only the florals are evident. There is a menthol/camphor note, which hovers over all.

It is quite spare and quite modern. Amazingly subtle and light. A true find, but maddeningly mysterious in its balance of contrasting elements. Very worth seeking out.
21st September, 2017

John Varvatos STAR USA by John Varvatos

Nice citrus in the opening mixed with some spicey-sweetness. Very pleasant and easy to wear.

Performance is pretty bad. Projection is moderate and the scent only hangs around for 1-2 hours.
21st September, 2017

Racine by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

Stardate 20170921:
Red non-argyle bottle:

Starts out leathery chyprish - sorta like Capucci PH vintage. I guess it must be the Moss+Citrus+Musk.
The effect doe snot last long and is replace by Vetiver and candied citrus accord balanced by musk (white I think)
This is the accord that goes all the way to the end. Vetiver gets more prominent as time passes.

A nice take on vetiver and a good fragrance. If you are looking for a vetiver centric fragrance this is not it. I prefer Guerlain, Carven vetiver. But if you are looking for a different take of traditional cologne go for it.
21st September, 2017

Alien Oud Majestueux by Thierry Mugler

I bought my bottle of Alien Oud Majestueux a few months ago, and have been saving it for the cold weather: as autumn is definitely here, I'm wearing it for the first time today. Sadly, I'm not enjoying this fragrance as much as I was expecting: I love oud, and have worn Middle Eastern oud fragrances, such as Oud Cambodi by Ajyad, and Oud Al Amarat by Anfar, as well as the various Raghba perfumes for many years; I also love the various Alien fragrances (the original Eau de Parfum, Essence Absolue and Eau Extraordinaire).

The oud notes in Alien Oud Majestueux are very authentic, but so far, I'm really not sure they work well with Alien. I've been wearing the fragrance for approximately four hours, and the oud has not blended at all with the Alien; I can smell both as two separate fragrances, rather than blending together. Unfortunately, I feel the oud and Alien are detracting from, rather than enhancing each other. The oud takes away a lot of Alien's sweetness, which might well work for many people, if you find Alien too sweet.

I have to give this fragrance a thumbs up, as I don't actually dislike it; it just doesn't work as well as I was expecting (this could be just the way it reacts on my skin). For me, oud works better in one of the Middle Eastern fragrances, rather than pairing it with another existing fragrance, as in Oud Majestueux. I'll enjoy wearing this bottle, but I will stick to other varieties of Alien in future. (I had been intending to buy a bottle of Alien Musc Mysterieux soon, but I will now definitely want to try it first).

To add a final thought (not necessarily in relation to Alien Oud Majestueux): oud is currently one of the in notes in western perfume; to add the name oud to a fragrance, also seems to add to the price (often drastically so). I don't understand this, as oud has been a staple ingredient of Middle Eastern perfumes for a very long time, and genuine oud fragrances (such as the ones I've mentioned) are typically very reasonably priced.
21st September, 2017

L'Amandière by Heeley

Woman and parasol by Albert Edelfelt 1886
21st September, 2017
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Light Blue Pour Homme by Dolce & Gabbana

The citrus opening is not particularly riveting or exciting, but it is a solid yet rather generic set of top
notes of mandarin and of whiffs of lemony/ grapefruit components of medium ripeness; neither very sweet nor very acid-laden.

The core is much more nondescript; a mélange of nonspecific floral and woodsy component with a very synthetic and anaemic rosemary note - not unpleasant but not more than that. The base with its dull and anonymous soup of white musks and the failed laboratory attempts to create a mossy impression smells of what I imagine to be the bouquet of acid rain in a Petri dish.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin.

In this summery, albeit not very fresh, creation some credit might be due for the opening phase, but the rest is a highly generic and dull petrochemical concoction of questionable merit. Overall - not reaching beyond mediocrity. 2.25/5
21st September, 2017

Himalaya by Creed

White wax lemon snow
Scattered round an old wood shrine
By sharp icy winds.
21st September, 2017

Leather by Avon

This is certainly one of the darkest, murkiest, and most burly fragrances I have ever smelled. That's not to say this is really musky, sharp, or any kind of "strong" as we know it in modern day men's cologne, just very masculine to a fault. Not only would something like this be completely unmarketable now, but it must have been a total shock back in the 60's when it hit the Avon catalog because this was the age when barbershop fougeres and zesty citrus chypres stormed into the starlight. Not even in the 70's, with all it's heavy aromatic fougeres, orientals, and musks would make home to something like this, because it was still darker, richer, yet ultimately softer than any of those beasts. Granted, this might not be the most masculine fragrance ever created, it is by far the most intently so. Did I forget to mention it came in a boot-shaped bottle?

The 1960's for Avon was the first time they went all-in with a men's line of fragrances, and actually went out of the way to mention there was even "Avon for Men!" by exclaiming it in every ad and on the boxes of these things. They had a classy chypre, the "lime scent", an Old Spice clone, the rather unique Wild Country, a brisk nautical scent, and then.. well.. this. Of all the scents from this period I've smelled or purchased, this one is certainly the most unique. It's very hard to describe because nothing else really comes close to it. To try and summarize, there is a definite base of something leathery and tobacco-like in the bottom of this, and the odd wintergreen note in there as well does kinda bend this towards a Pepto Bismol smell but it isn't as bad as that description makes it sound. Riding on top all this darkness is a layer of citrus, bergamot, petitgrain and moss. I usually don't see moss as anything but a basenote in a fragrance, so to have it project right out front then give way as it fades in favor of the namesake leather is very peculiar indeed; it's almost like this scent is an inversion of what a fougere usually is, but still manages to be one, if only categorically.

Where to wear this for the contemporary fragrance fan... that's even harder to say. It's not romantic AT ALL, and it's so dark and brutish that it would almost be inappropriate for work or casual use too. Maybe solo evenings at home where nobody has to smell you (and thus judge you), or perhaps in a sawdust-floor bar, pool haul, or country line dancing club. It doesn't have the "Old American West" vibe in it's construction like Wild Country, but it does scream "Texas" or "Oklahoma" with all the richness and masculinity. I almost want to say there is something of a licorice or anise note in here too, or just the combination of smells that create it, but I could be wrong. At the end of the day, it's such a fragrance both out of time and place then and now, that's it's something you just have to wear out of sheer interest in turning heads, reason be damned. It's quite quality and will last most of the day even if it doesn't project very heavily, but if you can find a more surly scent in a more overbearingly male package (excluding later gift decanters), my boot's... er... hat's off to you! Thumbs up just for strangeness.
21st September, 2017
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