Perfume Reviews

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The One Sport by Dolce & Gabbana

An average attempt by D&G at having a "Sport" version of their popular The One cologne.

I tend to be very reluctant to explore the sport versions of most scents out there. I admit that on a few occasions, I did discover some hidden gems (e.g. Luna Rossa Sport and Allure Homme Sport come quickly to mind).

Here, I think I wanted enough of the original's dna to exist that would catch my interest. Not here. It just smells - generic. It has one of my most favorite note, cardamom, and looked promising with aquatic notes.

It's a so-so scent. I'm not saying this one HAS to resemble the original significantly to be legit; rather, if it must depart from the dna, it should do so carefully and credibly. I struggle to see much more than a run-of-the-mill aromatic citrus-wood which doesn't "wow" me.

Tastes differ for sure here. I'd say, give it a test and see how you respond for yourself.
05th December, 2018

The One for Men Eau de Parfum by Dolce & Gabbana

Premium experience from D&G! The One for Men EdP is a rich fragrance that delivers on a classy experience: Spicy, citrus, tobacco, and woody-amber elements create a powdery, aromatic effect that feels warm, intimate, and sexy.

It's a laid back, long-lasting fragrance. More mellow and more reflective than the EdT (which is louder but doesn't last as long and feels more "airy" in comparison).

Excellent cool weather scent, for both formal and casual occasions (and esp. romantic encounters!).
05th December, 2018

Light Blue Eau Intense pour Homme by Dolce & Gabbana

Pungent and charged up take on the D&G Light Blue pour Homme that is UNMISTAKABLY intense!

It takes the now popular aquatic Light Blue, with its delightful salty sea and citrus-musk quality, and gives you a very masculine, deepened experience that eclipses the original. I enjoyed whiffing this several times over its quarter day or more longevity, and I know it left a trail!
05th December, 2018
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D&G Masculine by Dolce & Gabbana

(Holy cow, look at those prices for a bottle online!!)

D&G Masculine, along with its sibling By, were common fixtures at many a fragrance tester counter last decade - notably, at Sephoras, where I'd first seen them.

Masculine is a nice woody-spicy-citrus-aromatic scent. Very fresh citrus opening gets filled in with an assortment of herbs and spices, rounded out nicely with jasmine. It's capped off by a solid musky-woody-vetiver.

Has a classic men's cologne vibe that is not dated. Love its freshness and, indeed, the masculine character. Very puzzled why it was ultimately discontinued; would love to see it reissued by D&G (along with By) to revisit those decent colognes for a new audience.
05th December, 2018

Santos by Cartier

A moderate thumbs up, mostly out of respect for the scent versus full-fledged liking of the product.

I try to be flexible with older scents. I realize that many were competing with other brands for the hearts and bodies of the populace in their time. Loud, unapologetically brash colognes were quite the thing within the 20th century.

Santos de Cartier was one of these. It is a trail-leaving beast that fit nicely within the early 1980's when it had premiered. In its own right, Santos is classy and pleasant, so it's no drug store cheapie.

Being a product reflecting its period, a bottle of Santos (esp. the original formulation) will put off many who are used to today's cologne aesthetics. It's a cologne for older wearers, particularly those who remember the 1980's.

Spicy, aromatic, bright, but with a toned-down finish, Santos is not unlike recent scents like 2012's Christian Dior's Eau Sauvage Parfum, albeit not as sweet. I haven't had the chance to try out recent reformulations, so I cannot comment on comparisons with the original.

I MAY wear Santos around the house purely out of reverie for the past. Otherwise, I tip my hat to this credible scent series from Cartier.
05th December, 2018

Vanilla Intense by Parfums Vintage

Smells like Pineapple Vintage for sure but not as sharp or biting, maybe smoothed-out by the vanilla. And to be clear, this is not a vanilla scent. It’s supposed to be modeled after an Aventus batch from 2014 that had more prominent vanilla notes, if I’ve my research right. To my nose, it’s just a very nice, smooth, well-blended Aventus clone. It actually has a sexy, seductive vibe to it, must be the vanilla.

This also has better performance than other Pinepple Vintage scents I’ve tried. Projection is above average and longevity lasts all workday.
05th December, 2018

Oeillet Louis XV (new) by Oriza L. Legrand

My eight year old said this perfume reminded him of visiting RHS Harlow Carr in Yorkshire during our time in England. Most of the year the temperature hovered between 13-18 celsius, hence the air is usually crisp or damp and cold. Depending on what was in bloom or what section of the area we visited, usually the playground areas, there was often this spicy and peppery waft in the air from the wet soil and the damp leaves and lots of stomping and trampling of the ground foliage. On the other side of the gardens there was a field of flowers, most surprisingly in variating stages of bloom throughout the year.

Mixed in was the scent from the Bettys inside Harlow Carr with their hot afternoon tea in the air. Finally at the end the gift store with floral and botanical lotions, soaps, and scented candles. Oeillet Louis XV at each stage from the opening notes to the final hold on woody notes reminds me of each visit to beloved memory of our time in England.
05th December, 2018

Nemer by Boadicea the Victorious

Beautiful perfume from Boadicea, which evolves around rose,oud,saffron and sandalwood. I can't say it's unique but it smells of excellnet quality
04th December, 2018 (last edited: 05th December, 2018)

Tom Ford Noir Extreme by Tom Ford

Tom Ford Noir Extreme (2015) feels like a direct marketing department response to the critical reaction a lot of us had to Tom Ford Noir (2012), which itself holds generally favorable opinions across the board but was definitely more of a slow burner in sales (although it has slowly gained more acceptance). Most of the Tom Ford Signature line on the male side had been received with unanimous praise and robust sales, while Tom Ford Noir's milder success can be attributed to a mixed level of indifference similar to the more-expensive and niche-level Private Blend line, but without as big of a profit margin to mitigate concern. Much of this had to do with what Tom Ford Noir was: a civeted rose "floriental" chypre for men released to the mainstream that has only been attempted a scant few times in modern history outside maybe the turn of the 20th century, which made it come across boring and dated at best, or jarringly animalic at worst to people who were generally cool with Tom Ford's "old school" vibe but were not expecting that big of a nostalgia trip. Olivier Gillotin did good work on it but when Tom Ford Noir Extreme was created to expand the line, pefumer Sonia Constant was brought in to tinker and modernize the theme. She's worked for everyone from Avon to Zara and like Ann Gottlieb, knows her way around a target market. Sonia transformed the Noir accord from Victorian-nodding floriental chypre to oriental/gourmand hybrid, putting Tom Ford Noir Extreme right in the pocket with scents like Burberry London for Men (2006) or even Avon Intrigue (2001) with it's dark floral tea and spice.

Tom Ford Noir Extreme opens with a huge hit of cardamom, enough to actually tinge the nose at first. This cardamom salvo is soon smoothed down with nutmeg and sweet mandarin, but at first I feel like I'm taking the cardamom version of the "cinnamon challenge" (look it up if you don't know the reference). Neroli and saffron continue to sweeten and smooth this spice attack more, but I feel like it's a bit too much sweetening because when the rose and jasmine show up in the middle, Tom Ford Noir Extreme takes on a faux-cherry cough syrup kind of atmosphere which puts me off. Mastic is a love-or-hate note which can come across like pistachio or the candy shell of a malted milk ball depending on how it's used, and Calvin Klein Reveal Man (2014) was just barely able to pull it off thanks to no less than 3 perfumers. I don't feel the mastic works well here, and gums up an already-syrupy middle phase. A black tea note sits on top a really generic "amberwoods" synthetic cop-out base, and Tom Ford is usually good at avoiding the "mall accord" at its price point, but I guess that's just what research told the firm they needed to make if they wanted to sell tons of bottles. There's vanilla and sandalwood to reassert the core oriental experience, but that mastic gourmand uneasiness continues to flit about, which is staved off from ruining the scent only by the tea note. This only comes in eau de parfum, so expect all-day wear with tight sillage best for winter use and clubbing thanks to the sweetness.

Tom Ford Noir Extreme feels like it's trying to channel the Noir formula through that 2000's sweet ambery gourmand style, loses all of its antique charm (likely on purpose), and aims for the Sir Dude of McBroheim target that will spend over $150 for a fragrance but isn't quite ready to smell like they do (which is also where Parfums de Marly makes bank). I don't think Tom Ford typically makes it a career goal to fleece the rich by selling false confidence, so I won't put the house in league with Parfums de Marly, even if I can't give this a thumbs up because it smells of generic ambroxan and norlimbanol mixed with Earl Grey tea and Robitussin. All meaning of brand value is ironically lost when the base notes of Tom Ford Noir Extreme mix with the Le Mâle (1994), 1 Million (2008), and Eros (2013) clouds wafting off of other drunk paper-pushers in the VIP club nearest you, but every house is bound to concede to trend now and then when they need a quick cash stimulus, with Tom Ford Noir Extreme overshadowing Tom Ford Noir to become a huge staple seller at the counters for just that reason. Everyone at Nordstrom tries to sell me this over Tom Ford for Men (2007), Grey Vetiver (2009) or any of the Private Blend selections, so what does that say? Tom Ford Noir Extreme is certainly no travesty but I've smelled too much in this genre that's done better for less money, and would steer somebody into Yves Saint Laurent La Nuit de L'Homme (2009) before dropping stacks of cash on this.
04th December, 2018 (last edited: 05th December, 2018)

Joy by Christian Dior

Lemon bubblegum Dial soap.

It smells so derivative, so cheap, so instantly mass market, so desperately sunny and bright, that if I didn't know better I would swear it was a tongue-in-cheek commentary on the sorry state of today's mainstream fragrances—the perfume equivalent of spokesperson JLaw's Bratty Chatty Kathy public persona.

Unfortunately, I believe this stuff is serious about itself. But that doesn't stop me from kind of loving it (ducks).

04th December, 2018

Duro by Nasomatto

This is one that for me does not live up to the hype, at all. I can't figure out why, but to my nose it smells a lot like Brut, the classic aftershave. Perhaps it is because of some of the synthetics used in Duro? I'm not really sure, but I would be interested in hearing theories or hearing whether anyone else has had a similar experience.

Aside from the Brut similarities, what I do get is a really strong patchouli note and some woods as well. I can't really detect any leather, tobacco, or booze.

Unfortunately, this is one that I just don't really get. Maybe my nose is faulty, but when you consider the $185 price tag attached to this one (in addition to the mediocre scent), I just can't recommend this one at all. I do wish I was able to smell what other people were smelling as there seems to be quite a bit of hype surrounding this one.
04th December, 2018

Russian Leather by Memo

I enjoyed this scent. Despite the name "Russian Leather" I found this one to be much more similar to the many "barbershop" scents on the market as opposed to the many "Leather" or more particularly, "Russian Leather" scents out there.

It is described by Memo as an "icy fougere" or something in that vein, which is an apt description. However, I found this one to be quite similar to Maison Margiela's Replica At the Barber's. To my nose they both even have a prominent Basil note and a feint leather accord in the background.

My conclusion is that this one, despite smelling quite nice, is not at all worth the price of admission considering you can get something nearly identical for less than half the price. This one does have a really, really cool bottle though.
04th December, 2018

Bois d'Ascèse by Naomi Goodsir

the definitive scent of whiskey, wood smoke, tobacco and cedar wood.
very alcoholic in the opening. then I imagine myself and my girlfriend eating in the mountain hut with the fireplace lit. at the end of dinner our clothes smell of burnt wood smoke and cedar wood that comes from outside. all while I sip a whiskey and a friend next to me and I smoke a cigar.
some notes of amber, labdanum and oak moss.
excellent perfume but I would not buy it. too extreme for me. but I admit it's really good. 8/10
excellent performance.
04th December, 2018
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Andy Warhol's You're In by Comme des Garçons

I’m into the name! But the fragrance is not what it literally hints at... There seems to be more of wordplay at the design of it. Pop?—Soda, Pop—Tart?
So it smells like a bubble of lemonade and candy.
A lighthearted and superficial interpretation of Andy-fame.

And, after half an hour on my wrists (… after 15mins, I assume?) the scent I get is coriander and hands that just peeled an orange.
A return from the sugary high, back to the wholesome kitchen.
04th December, 2018

Musk au Chocolat by Duftkumpels

a wonderful warm scent. animalistic, but not intrusive. Deep and long-lasting on the skin. a fragrance for the evening for two I can recommend
04th December, 2018

Eau Sauvage by Christian Dior

Love this classic, very fresh, lemon and Bergamot, summery,clean, leather,woody dry down. The only problem is longevity, it just fades too quickly.
04th December, 2018

Insensé by Givenchy

Ahead of its time for a masculine fragrance,floral notes of Mimosa and Lily of the valley,clean and fresh,herbal,woody unisex, many similar notes to Givenchy III which is why I love it! (It actually layers well with Givenchy Gentleman). Agree with earlier review that its a very Spring like fragrance.Hard to find now.Shame.
04th December, 2018

Métal by Paco Rabanne

Lovely,dry,fresh green and aldehydes at the outset then a burst of Lily of the Valley and Hyacinth followed by mossy woody drydown.Like Givenchy III's younger and less sophisticated sister. Agree with other reviewers,very underrated.
04th December, 2018

Cardin by Pierre Cardin

Lovely,very of its time, stunning original somewhat space age packaging, I have shower gel,EDT and tiny EDP. To me,its closest cousin is vintage Ivoire de Balmain (not the horrible modern version. Some similarities with Knowing by Estee Lauder also.
Ivoire has more grassy vetiver,Cardin is more balsamic.Gorgeous.
04th December, 2018

Dioressence by Christian Dior

My review is for recent incarnation, poss from 2016.
I want to like this as on paper its just up my alley but it is almost too overpowering for my tastes. Its a big patchouli bomb.If I spray very lightly I can just about get away with it and there are elements that I love but I think there is a bit of vanilla and too much of something else I can't place in the drydown,its compelling but a bit repellent at the same time.Will persevere as I blind bought a big bottle.
I did put some in the rinse water when I hand washed a silk scarf the other week and its smells lovely on the fabric so maybe that's the way to go with this baby!
04th December, 2018

Balmain de Balmain by Pierre Balmain

completely agree with Way off Scenters' review above. I love this one. The only problem is,in the UK its hard to get hold of for a reasonable price or at all! I have used up my small sample and was thrilled at being able to buy a brand new 30ml splash bottle in its original box, navy blue corner label etc but am sad to find that the stopper is absolutely jammed in the bottle and won't open! Any tips before I break the top off to get to the precious juice! Grr!
04th December, 2018

Infusion d'Iris by Prada

Lovely fresh summer scent,iris and galbanum,very green and citrussy clean, powdery but not dated. Gentle woody dry down. I have the EDP and body lotion and shower gel. Layering together does improve the longevity. Favourite holiday perfume.
04th December, 2018

Eau du Soir by Sisley

As a vintage Chypre fan and lover of cool green aldehydic fragrances, this is one of the few modern scents that I return to.The opening is very bright and sharp and a bit medicinal and I can see that some would find this off-putting but its totally my thing.Its fresh and clean and sparkling and initially quite strong but soon dries down to a woody,patchouli skin scent which is long-lasting.I don't get much floral apart from jasmine in the composition which I don't mind.I am sure there is Galbanum although its not listed in the notes.I am sure the current version does not now contain much real oakmoss and would love to smell the original formulation.
I love the bottle but wish the sculptural gold lid was at least metal rather than plastic.Suspect this was the case on earlier versions!
04th December, 2018

Givenchy III by Givenchy

Vintage EDT and Eau de Parfum.I believe this to be the pinnacle of the perfumers art. A heartbreakingly beautiful sparkling green chypre which is so beautifully balanced,for me it stands head and shoulders above the rest.The aldehyde and galbanum opening is exquisite and makes it feel still modern even though the moss and patchouli in the drydown is classic.I have been steadily building a collection of the different incarnations of this beauty since it was sadly discontinued and now have a lovely wardrobe of my favourite fragrance, I cannot bear to go a day without smelling it. The mossy green ropes of the previous review have bound themselves to my heart and I cannot give it up!
04th December, 2018

L'Eau The One by Dolce & Gabbana

The fruity touch could be used on summery events. Although the first impression is not for everyone.
04th December, 2018

New York by Heaven's Alchemy

An average perfume oil and not worth the asking prices. This is a white floral with some herbal/bitter components in the middle that turn it green with mainly muguet in the base with a little musk.
04th December, 2018

03. Apr. 1968 by Rundholz Parfums

no no no, it's not for me. I appreciate the effort to create something different from the usual incense ... but this is too much.
my eyes water from the power of this perfume. but in a negative sense.
imagine initially the church incense that runs through the wine. here this is the beginning.
the heliotrope is annoying and disgusting.
the notes do not mix, they feel distinctly.
sour fruit, gummy candies, bonfires, litchi, red wine, Italian sweet sparkling wine, cough syrup, christmas, vomit, whiskey, these are just a few words that this scent evokes me. if I thought that the beaufort perfumes were not wearable, this is the perfection of the non-wearable perfume.
nausea, disgust, maybe this is contemporary art of perfume? one could object that even the perfumes made
 da filippo sorcinelli and the perfumes of beaufort are perhaps borderline fragrances and contemporary art? but at least they evoke something ... they have a story they want to evoke. this is a mess and that's it.
nausea and vomit. excellent performance.
vote 0/0

ps: if sahara noir is similar, tell me that I avoid buying it.
04th December, 2018

Tabac Vert by Rogue Perfumery

Aromatic leaves of tobacco warmed over a bed of dry cedar and resinous oakmoss. Tabac Vert eschews the conventionally heavier vanillic accoutrements in favor of a lighter brighter approach, resulting in an elegantly fresh woody chypre.

If Vintage Tabarome reminds one of wood-panelled cigar rooms in men-only clubs then Tabac Vert takes you elsewhere to a private bar with a cigarette on your lips and a glass of Old Fashioned in your hand.

04th December, 2018
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Ambre et Vanille by E.Coudray

An orangey opening blast, freshened up with lashings of bergamot and made smoother and creamer by an ylang-ylang that is quite pleasant. Soon a light amber arises that adds further depth. This combination of fresh and smooth sets the tone for most of the further development that I encountered in this case.

In the heart notes the fresh side is represented by a citrus/heliotrope impression, with the amber lingering on very notably. The smoother shows up as a cinnamon note, which contains whiffs of almonds at times. This vanilla increases in prominence over time, accentuated by a soft but bright patchouli.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin.

An autumn scent for warmer days that is maybe not very creative, but smooth and rich, and never too thick and cloying owing to the fresher touches that introduce some balance into the whole. 3.25/5.
04th December, 2018

Wings for Men by Wings

Cool Water with a “smokey” twist.
04th December, 2018