Perfume Reviews

Latest Perfume Reviews

Total Reviews: 156235

Complex by Boadicea the Victorious

Dry, sage and violet.

Opening, it is bone dry, and the immediate hit is violet, cold and aloof. Sage, I also find to have a cold nature. In terms of smoked burning smells, it is the coldest, and among the driest. But it is very clean. The musk here is crystal clear, without a hint of dirt. Its like they took the most sanitized note from each category and then built a fragrance from it. The effect is something of a refined, ultra clean and posh. Maybe a wealthy old woman who feels like she's better than you.
08th January, 2020

A*Men Ultimate by Thierry Mugler

Reminds me of a softer, minty, less sweet Azzaro Wanted in the opening. The milky coffee smell barely starts to come in later but never fully dominates or makes it heavy. Has that odd combo of a light freshie mixed with coffee, similar to Halloween Man X, which I think smells more unique than Amen Ultimate. There’s also a sweet powderiness that reminds me of LeMale. It’s generically pleasant but “ultimately” redundant.

Performance is just okay. Projection is never loud and really only projects for a few hours. Skin scent sticks around for most of the workday.
08th January, 2020

Poppy & Barley Cologne by Jo Malone London

On me, Poppy & Barley smells like a surprisingly interesting strawberry perfume. I really don't like strawberry notes in perfume (they can cheapen just about anything), but this somehow works better than your average strawberry.

There are other fruits giving this depth - blackcurrant is listed, but I also smell Mure et Musc's blackberry (a personal favorite). There's also a full-on rose/violet/patchouli blend going on, with it's rather goth wine and dried fruit smell. This all mixes together to create something somehow better than it's parts - a silly fruity floral and a mediocre fruitchouli somehow combined into something that's kept me interested.
08th January, 2020
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Aoud Cuir d'Arabie by Montale

The grossest perfume I've ever fallen for.

It's got that Montale oud that smells like moldy old medicine, burning rubber, and band aids. There's also a Tuscan Leather-esque leather note, sweet berries on top, and a ridiculous amount of civet, so it's REALLY fecal.

In a way, I think this is one of those scents that's kind of awful that perfume snobs are supposed to like, but behind that is the basic fact that this is just so ridiculous that it stands out from all the repetitive perfumes out there that endlessly copy each other, so in a purely figurative way, it's refreshing to smell.

One more story: I once wore this in an Uber and spent the whole ride thinking that my driver was releasing secret little farts but it ended up being my Aoud Cuir d'Arablie fumes, so it's probably not best for closed spaces...
07th January, 2020 (last edited: 13th January, 2020)

De Profundis by Serge Lutens

Opens up strong and heavy on the light and almost pastel-ish florals eventually settling down to chrysanthemums and carnations. I had a family member that introduced me to chrysanthemum tea and it has certain notes that remind me of it. Little bit of fresh cut stem green notes and very much a scent of light blooms in spring. Very nice.
07th January, 2020

Privé by Ormonde Jayne

It's a rare thing, an Ormonde Jayne fragrance I do not quite get on with, but here it is. Privé seems to be an amalgamation of pretty much every typical OJ note; tea, citrus, dry woods, flowers, iris, vanilla, you name it, it's there.

I thoroughly like all of these notes, a lot of which are recognisable from other OJ fragrances. I even like them together; they're well blended, a s per usual and the resulting scent has that dry chiqueness that is Ormonde's signature. The problem is that this seems to be the fragrance where perfumer Geza Schoen has gone overboard with some woody aromachemical or other. I normally very much enjoy the way he uses things like Iso E Super in this line (i.e., restrained, never the focus, but very effective), but in this scent there's some radiant, dry, woody note that just takes over and overpowers all the other notes.

My nose seems particularly sensitive to one or more of the popular woody aroma chemicals (I smell nothing but an incredibly radiant alcohol like note in Sauvage, for example), so I think this is causing the problem here. I suspect for someone who's nose is tuned differently, this could be a fantastic scent
07th January, 2020
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Lyric Woman by Amouage

A bright and spicy opening blast characterises the initial stage: cardamom, orris,a touch of cinnamon and quite a bit of ginger - the latter’s camparable brightness was a bit enhance by an influx of bergamot. Spicy, but not sharp and not dark.

The drydown turns floral, but thanks to some slightly bitter angelica it is not all floral softness and sweetness. I get a bit of muguet, a good lashing of a pleasant geranium, and a good bunch of roses. The rose never really unfolds fully, and blends in somewhat inconspicuously instead of taking on a lead role. This is more ascribed to a jasmin that developed a bit further down the track. There is an underlying restrained creaminess owing to an ylang-ylang, but again this does not come to full fruition and remains more of a forme fruste. All these notes blend in and remain intertwined; a team effort amongst equals if one expresses it in a positive manner, or alternatively a concoction that does not allow the notes to develop individual excellence if seen in a negative fashion.

The base displays the same characteristics: a nonspecific woodsy muskiness - a touch of a bland sandal breaks through occasionally - with a soft and slightly mossy patchouli, with a mildly sweetened undertone of tonka - again a mishmash focused on the collective impression and not the individual notes. The spiciness of the top notes is lingering still, have takes on more of and incense characteristic and displaying the spiciness in an attenuated strength.

In get moderate sillage, very good projection and and very good eight hours of longevity on my skin.

An interesting autumnal composition, with the top notes being the most convincing ones. The later stages are a bit too generic at times, and the sheer amount of different components can suffocate more than enhance each other at certain moments. Still, some of the ingredients are of high quality, the blending is excellent and the performance is very satisfying. Overall 3.25/5.

07th January, 2020

Qi by Ormonde Jayne

My wallet dispairs a little every time I discover a new Ormonde Jayne fragrance, because more often than not I end up loving them. I never would have given this the time of day, as it sounds a bit too polite and light for my tastes, but my interest was piqued when I visited the OJ store to sniff their candles (which are fantastic, by the way).

I ended up getting a sample because I could not get this delicate beauty out of my head; a breezy tea and citrus affair with, to my nose, plenty of apricotty osmanthus. It's achieves a fine balance between floral, fresh, and bitter and is airy without being unsubstantial at all. It lasts and projects impressively for such a delicate fragrance; I get addictive, mood lifting wafts of it all day. I find Ormonde Jayne one of the most consistently impressive houses out there and will be saving up to add this to my collection. I bet it will be spectacular in spring.
07th January, 2020

Mercedes-Benz Man Blue by Mercedes-Benz

A nice spiced scent with a masculine mix of black pepper, lavender, and bergamot on top. Green herbs come in underneath - I especially smell basil. Then comes pie spices and tonka.

This lives somewhere between a fairly standard shopping mall masculine and a spiced fougere. It could have been trash if it had a cheap aquatic base or fruit in the topnotes, but it manages to stay fairly classy. The only real issue is that the base is incredibly weak - this only really performs for a couple of hours, but that's to be expected from a cheapie like this. Not outstanding but definitely not bad either.
07th January, 2020

Moustache Eau de Parfum by Rochas

I started off sampling Moustache EdP on its own but quickly realized it reminded me of something else I had smelled recently. After some research, YSL Tuxedo seems to be the main direct comparison, and I agree after smelling them both side-by-side.

The opening is very close to YSL Tuxedo, both being a smooth-balsamic and then vanilla scent mixed with something kinda dirty and sexy, like leather or booze (think aspects of Fahrenheit dirty or even Memo leathers). Moustache EdP feels more masculine than Tuxedo, not as unisex. It also has a heavier, very dressed-up feel, which makes sense being compared to something called “Tuxedo”.

Deeper into the drydown, Moustache EdP can't keep up with the projection I get from Tuxedo but it still does just fine. Longevity was in the 9 hour range.
06th January, 2020 (last edited: 07th January, 2020)

Gucci Guilty Love Edition pour Homme by Gucci

So Gucci thinks it's a novelty act to bring back a classic masculine accord, and so assigns such an accord to a limited edition flanker to the original Gucci Guilty pour Homme (2011), as interpreted by modern cost-minimized aromachemical perfumery in an era of maximizing short-term profits over long-term brand integrity. Begrudgingly this works, and I don't like to admit that, because here we have a house that has repeatedly flushed its own legacy down the toilet with every new exchange of hands. It's becoming something of an abusive relationship with Gucci to allow oneself to fall in love with anything they make, knowing it will sooner rather than later be taken away and replaced with something potentially even more banal and catch-all than the last thing, but I like Gucci Guilty Love Edition pour Homme (2019) in spite of that. To be fair, this isn't quite a faithful aromatic fougère recreation because it has a few choice embellishments on top to fit the "love" aesthetic, ergo some touches that the modern mainstream perfume buyer would perceive as romantic, and doesn't attempt a synthetic oakmoss accord like Montblanc Legend (2011) by using evernyl. I both love and hate talking about these "new fougère" fragrances in a post-oakmoss world, because I feel like I'm speaking to a schism in the fragrance community between those who have almost a drug-addled fixation on oakmoss, and those who came into enjoying fragrances too late after all the restrictions to really understand why this is such a big deal to some people. In my opinion, this is one of the best in the Gucci Guilty pour Homme line since the the original and Gucci Guilty Absolute pour Homme (2017), but it takes coming to terms with what to expect from this market segment to appreciate it, and there are still far better options that don't come with the caveat of being pre-planned unicorns on the merit of having a limited finite production run at launch. Is Gucci poorly attempting to cash in on their own aftermarket status with fragrances like Gucci Nobile (1988) here? Who knows?

The top of Gucci Guilty Love Edition pour Homme has the odd choice of kumquat, or whatever captive stands in for it, with some mandarin and ginger to build out a fruity semi-sweet spicy "romantic" opening. I think classic fougère lovers will find the most difficulty in loving this "love edition" with the top than with the rest of the fragrance, but if they can set aside their dismissals for just a few minutes, the rest of the fragrance shimmers into place. Lavender, geranium, and rosemary establish the classic aromatic fougère heart of Gucci Guilty Love Edition pour Homme, and it mingles with a bit of the fruity accord in the top and the flanking pink pepper in the middle almost like how the neroli and black pepper play with the fougère heart of Tsar by Van Cleef & Arpels (1989), making something of an old-school "sporty" vibe by accident. Gucci Guilty Love Edition pour Homme leaves memory lane quickly by veering off the nearest exit ramp into a modern ambrox base, but it's honestly not bad even then. Patchouli, vetiver, and benzoin are all classic resins and aromatics found in fougères of the past, so here they work to mask the weird transparent warmth ambrox usually gives to a modern fragrance with a bit more bushy depth. At the end of the day, we get a marriage of 1980's and early 90's fougère aesthetics with the modern ingenuity perfumers often develop when saddled with briefs from mainstream houses that won't spend the coin on naturals like low-atranol oakmoss or allow more than a few months gestation in the lab before it hits shelves to meet a seasonal deadline. In short, Gucci Guilty Love Edition pour Homme won't please die-hard vintage lovers but will make a small splash outside of that for its retro-green feel with modern versatility (accompanied by the odd bottle color). Wear time for Gucci Guilty Love Edition pour Homme is pretty average for the segment and performance is also pretty much the same. Gucci Guilty Love Edition pour Homme has moderate to high projection at first, with some quieting down later, but the aromatics throughout lend some of their powerhouse charm to the modern ambrox glow so it doesn't smell like your typical "Sauventus" one-trick pony on skin.

With so many options for reformulated classic aromatic fougères available, Gucci Guilty Love Edition pour Homme may inadvertently prove to be a gateway down the "vintage cologne guy" rabbit hole for some younger people after they get their first taste of a proper lavender/geranium tandem, and wonder what they've been missing all this time. The bulk of mainstream buyers will probably just be stuck on kumquat, patchouli, and benzoin portions of the overall accord in Gucci Guilty Love Edition pour Homme, as together they do create a pretty sexy sweet "jungle fruit" brusqueness that was last seen in action somewhere around the turn of the millennium. I still think this new limited flanker is pretty office-safe despite the romantic lean because of the old-school aromatics in the composition bringing a bit of the brisk "sportiness" guys who lived through the 80's will remember with early Lacoste efforts, but this same group will also probably be too hung up on the modern facets and lack of oakmoss to notice that connection. I can sort of see why this would be a limited edition, because the combination of Gordon Gecko and Elon Musk on display in Gucci Guilty Love Edition pour Homme is too dated for the average GQ-reading Chad, but too modern for the oatmilk latte-swilling hipster that records his Spotify lists to cassette so he can play them in his 87 Honda Prelude's OEM stereo. Vintage guys will sniff the top notes and go "hate it" while everyone else will be puzzled by the Gucci with the same color green on its bottle as a 1960's refrigerator, but I guess the right hype from a big enough YouTuber could put enough spin on this to catch some heat. Otherwise, this one is going to sell on impulse alone until it ends up in discounters, like most Gucci Guilty pour Homme flankers. Test it out and see for yourself while you still can, as I expect this is meant to run through Valentine's Day 2020. If you're reading this review way after the fact, you might as well just go to eBay, as it will have joined the rest of the discontinued Guccis there. Thumbs up.
06th January, 2020 (last edited: 07th January, 2020)

The One for Men Eau de Parfum by Dolce & Gabbana

A spicy hesperidic/herbal classic opening (strong on cardamom and basil) is the prelude to a following more exotic accord of sultry tobacco and spicy/orangy carnal amber. Cedarwood is definitely present providing "anchorage", structure and balance. The final amber/tobacco-accord conjures me intensely the original (more citric/aromatic and brighter) D&G Pour Homme's vintage formula with a stouter tobacco-presence before the reformulations. Unfortunately the orangy/cinnamonic flavour is in here overly powerful (and kind of "nutty-chocolatey") under my profane nose and this factor tends to hamper my full satisfation.
06th January, 2020
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Portrayal Woman by Amouage

The jasmine in the opening is on the dirty and woodsy side, emphasising the leaves and stems.

The drydown adds the central note here: the tuberose is it. Rich, at times fairly creamy, not very waxy and with a minimally indolic characteristic. Through the development whiffs of a tonka-like undertone are present. A sweet tobacco notes hovers in the background, but I get very little of the Craven A Virginia that was promised; it is a very nonspecific tobacco only that has a touch of spiciness added to it at times.

There is a permeating resinous undertone, contributed by the Elemi that grows more prominent towards the end.

I get strong sillage, excellent projection and and splendid thirteen hours of longevity on my skin.

This tuberose-jasmine scent for cooler spring days is a bit generic at times and quite synthetic, although at some stages it is quite pleasant and never cloying. 2.75/5
06th January, 2020
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Citrus Shores by Arran Aromatics

Strong citrusy fragrance reminiscent of Christmas days; perfect for winter time.

Thumbs up!
06th January, 2020

Patchouli by Murdock

Murdock Patchouli (2010) is a fresh, bright, dusty patchouli fragrance given a proper barbershop cologne treatment with a bit of dandy flair thrown in for good measure. Some may compare it to Terre d'Hermes (2006) because of the prominent interaction between citrus, geranium, and patchouli, but I assure you that this is a different fragrance where it counts. Murdock Patchouli plays a similar tune to JB by Jack Black (2010), infusing black pepper in the top of the fragrance to really bring out the bright facets of the geranium core, it just ends in dry patchouli closer to the aforementioned Terre d'Hermes rather than ending in a smear of synthetic woods notes like the Jack Black (although good in it's own right). The focus here is still on patchouli despite the complex note pyramid listed, but Murdock has eased us into the note rather than built it up with animalics or vanilla to smash your head in like something such as Givenchy Gentleman (1974) and Giorgio Beverly Hills for Men (1984). I like those much more assertive patchouli too, but I imagine not everyone does, and with most other alternatives being variations on the head shop theme, it's nice to have something like this available.

The opening is bergamot, petitgrain, and black pepper. Cardamom and nutmeg enter to give a spicy dustiness that lingers into the dry down. The geranium comes into play vividly after just a few minutes, polishing up nicely with some hedione and just a speck of clean rose. There is no ylang-ylang to my nose, despite being listed, but the patchouli makes its way into the picture after about 30 minutes, leaving to a three-way between the pepper, geranium, and that patchouli which comes closest to Terre d'Hermes in overall effect. The pepper dies down as the scent becomes closer to the skin, and from there Murdock Patchouli becomes mostly geranium, then mostly geranium-touched patchouli, with some late-stage incense and amber warmth. There isn't the industrial-sized dose of Iso E Super here like in JB or Terre, so no risk of going anosmic to Murdock Patchouli, but also not a radioactive field of projection either, and this is still a cologne so wear time won't go much over 6 hours. Perfectly dandy in tone thanks to the florals, and perfectly barbershop in longevity, Murdock Patchouli will see you right on a casual day at home or the office.

My only bit of complaint is paying $115US for a bottle of cologne with cologne performance, when pound-for-pound either JB by Jack Black or Terre d'Hermes have better value, even if the former focuses on other notes like eucalyptus while the latter has the flint/mineralic elements that set it apart. I suppose if you're the kind of guy that shops at Nordstrom or other higher-end stores that stock Murdock products, then this price point may not seem unreasonable, especially if you frequent the niche or luxury men's products that tend to be carried there, I'm just speaking from purely "average Joe" perspective. I don't know who the nose for this brand is but they surely have their head in the right place here, as there simply aren't enough patchouli fragrances that veer away from the thicker, oilier aspects of the plant that tend to be the focus with perfumes that place it at the center of a composition. This should be pretty easy to test and there is even a sampler size to buy if you can't find a way to walk in and spritz, with fans of modern fresh aromatics or dandy revival scents in particular advised to try it. Thumbs up!
06th January, 2020

Interlude Man by Amouage

It is just so strong. Oregano incense. Smoky, ashy, something sweet real deep inside. Its a commitment, it lasts so long, and scents everything you touch. Its more pleasant in the second half of the day. It just smells really good to me. Thumbs up. Fringe bottle worthy.
06th January, 2020

Ombré Leather by Tom Ford

Smells similar to the raspberry opening of Tuscan Leather. But its funny, it only smells similar right off the top. It changes, and becomes a floral leather, then ultimately a dash of ambrox. At times it smells dry and floral like Dia, others its clean smoke patchouli. Its really good, and been an enjoyable wear every time. Lasts about 10 hours. Thumbs up!
06th January, 2020

Vetiver by Murdock

Murdock seems good at what they do: creating a simple genuinely urbane line of traditional British gentleman's colognes of the ilk that used to be common when The Crown Perfumery, Penhaligon's and Geo F Trumper were all common names on the high street. Unfortunately, many of them relied on oakmoss bases and so got the axe when it came time to choose between paying up for the low-atranol stuff or just discontinuing the scents out of frugality. Vetiver (2011) released right on the cusp of the huge restriction on atranol found in oakmoss, so it was mostly future-proof anyway, and serves in place of now-dead fougère varieties with it's dry lavender top, semi-nutty/creamy vetiver middle, and tree moss base. The scent of Murdock Vetiver will likely appeal to those who want a brighter, more citric treatment of vetiver without all the smoke, and has enough complexity to avoid being a single-track mind of a vetiver scent like many from the barbershop fragrance realm, but probably won't appeal to the hardcore vetiver fans that want the nutgrass to smack them right in the face.

The opening is all bergamot and English lavender, with a dry citric and medicinal smell that reminds me a lot of how The Crown Perfumery Sumare (1925) opens, aka "properly British". The vetiver doesn't take long to appear and in some ways reminds me a lot of the much more-expensive Roja Parfums Vetiver Cologne (2019) from the fellow British perfumer extraordinaire, but without all the complex blending or litsea cubeba to extend the citrus-like tone into the core of the scent. Instead, the citrus recedes and the vetiver teams with the lavender, providing an earthy almost woody facet to the composition which brings Murdock Vetiver closer to being a fougère scent than "just a vetiver" fragrance. The base is tree moss and little else besides a puff of musk, but that's all anyone really needs because the star of the show has already been established by then and all the base does is need to sing in harmony. Wear time is about 6 hours which is the only let down, but this is a cologne so I can't be too mad. Sillage is also mild after the first 30 minutes, which further asserts this as a real cologne.

For a casual use vetiver cologne of sophistication unexpected at this price level, Murdock offers a really good alternative to something in the niche realm that could cost several times more, but is still much for a barbershop scent with a price tag over $100. Still, joy knows no budgetary constraints and this is quite the happy vetiver, so I see nothing wrong with paying the retail price for someone looking to buy what is essentially a vetiver-focused barbershop fougère made within the confines of IFRA/SCCP regulations. I am a bit perturbed that much of the Murdock line has been put to pasture because oakmoss restriction, and I'm not usually one to obsess about it because I like many things that don't even contain the note, but Murdock Vetiver is almost a fair trade. People who want more gusto with their vetiver are still better sticking to classics like Guerlain Vetiver (1961), and someone looking for zestier formats may want to check out designer offerings, but for a light and balanced take, the Murdock has it dialed in just right. Very reserved but also very nice. Thumbs up!
06th January, 2020

Black Orchid by Tom Ford

This is really attractive. Dark seductive fruity floral patchouli mix. I like the blend, it just melds all together. Performance is giant. Last all day. Projects prerty hard. Leans feminine. Could probably be worn by the right man. Smells like good quality. Doesnt drastically change.
06th January, 2020

Lonestar Memories by Tauer

Bizzaro LDDM. Its leather forward. Its got an incensey sage soap leather thing going on, overlying the same dusty amber. Really just feels like a leather flanker, to be honest, finished with laundry musk. But i like leather, and like LDDM. The dry down here i just find somewhat uninspiring. It feels less than. And a bit of a different feel than the opening. The developement is drastic. Its a neutral.
06th January, 2020

Dark Rum by Malin + Goetz

Neutral reviews are some of my least favorite because it means I didn't get a strong enough reaction from a fragrance to feel one way or the other about it, and the fact that I seemingly have to write more and more of them as time goes on is a bit alarming in itself as an unintentional commentary on the state of mainstream perfume. Malin + Goetz (Malin plus Goetz or Malin and Goetz anyone?) is another gray-area niche house that has the distribution footprint of a smaller designer brand and the pricing of a higher-end designer/entry-level niche perfumer but delivers style somewhere between The Body Shop and Le Labo. There seems to be a lot of those cropping up in the wake of the "niche boom" that has been slowly putting the squeeze on overly-regulated and under-creative designer perfumes ever-maximized further for cost/benefit for untenable profit growth curves in our late-stage Capitalist market, but I digress. This is another house I could have done just fine not knowing about, but because I walk past it every time I enter a Nordstrom, I found it necessary to at least take one sniff. Dark Rum (2013) seems to be the best of the bunch, in that it smells the least like a rejected Le Labo or Byredo formula, but still contains the same linearity or single-purposefulness of concept.

First thing's first, Dark Rum neither smells dark nor like rum to my nose, and as someone who used to imbibe in stuff like Kraken spiced rum or Bacardi Oakheart, I can tell you that darker rums have no correlation in smell or tone to this perfume. Secondly, the top notes seem more like base notes as they never let go of the accord, and you're going to get a strong bergamot/plum tandem from start to finish, so I hope you enjoy that. This opening does soften up a little bit, but the very synthetic "car freshener" plum note warms up a bit more with some fashion of leather accord, but more like that "nu-leather" suede-like note a lot of designers use, eventually ending in patchouli and ambroxan. The singular warm plum over patchouli accord here feels pretty much like a feminine-market fruitchouli at times, but the slightly dry effect of the chemical leather accord makes Dark Rum tolerable as a unisex fragrance. Wear time for Dark Rum is actually really admirable if you enjoy the accord, and it will last all day with moderate to strong sillage, good projection, and will power through almost any weather, so performance is not an issue. If you dig something like this, I also suggest pairing it up with the scented candle and skincare line since Malin + Goetz are a bit like a bourgeois Bath & Body Works in that all their products synergize along a common olfactive theme.

It should also be mentioned that Dark Rum is effectively the eau de parfum variant of the original discontinued Rum Tonic (2009) eau de toilette, with no discernible changes other than strength. There is also an even more concentrated perfume oil roll-on as well, for something more akin to the density of an attar or extrait wearing experience, except minus the layered dry down. The house claims it uses all naturals, which makes me a bit mad, because one sniff betrays that claim immediately, as this smells almost completely like something made by Glade to scent a candle or fill a diffuser than something worn by a person. This makes sense to me given the fact that Malin + Goetz produces products like that, but don't try to "niche swindle" me with hollow claims when anyone with a semi-functional nose can tell are false. With that having been said, I don't completely hate Dark Rum, but there is little else to be said about it besides it smells strongly of plums and leather. I'm personally going to reach for other perfumes with more development if I want that kind of smell, but I can see someone falling in love with the simplicity of Malin + Goetz Dark Rum. Sampling this should be easy but be warned: most salespersons in department stores handling this brand get spiffs for selling it (bonuses to commission), so they get pushy when you start sniffing! Neutral.
06th January, 2020

Quercus by Penhaligon's

Pedestrian citrus floral. I've tried Quercus on and off or a week, easy enough to do since it has no staying power and it's forgotten about 20 minutes after spraying. I get no lingering reminders that I have it on, no fleeting glimpses wafting up - nothing.

Although as unexciting as they come, Quercus has one redeeming factor - I doubt a single person would find anything contrary about it. Quercus is an incredibly safe perfume to buy someone as a gift especially if you don't know what they like and they aren't sure or afraid to wear perfume. Incredibly light and incredibly forgettable.
06th January, 2020

L'Oudh by Tauer

Smells like a tire store. Very strong. Pounds the scenses. Interesting, different. A good sampling, fun to attempt to dissect. Not gonna buy a bottle, but thumbs up regardless.
06th January, 2020

Libre by Yves Saint Laurent

I expected I would love this fragrance, and was exceedingly confused by my reaction to my first wearing. Upon purchase, I opened it and sprayed both wrists and neck. The mental image I was slammed with for the next several hours was that of a large orchestra, all tuning their individual instruments with the volume knob at 11. That was 6 weeks ago.

In an effort to better understand it, I’m writing this review with a single drop on the back of my hand. Within the first 10 minutes, I’m finding the top notes of black current, neroli and mandarin are unable to assert themselves with any impact, pushed rudely aside by jasmine and a strong, soapy lavender. 60 minutes later the screechy aspect seems to be slowly backing down, a touch of warmth tentatively rising to the surface. I’m hoping for vanilla but I have my doubts.

Cedar and vanilla blend well toward the 3 hour mark and the shrieking aspect has subsided. A faint, vague sweetness has emerged at 5 hours, but zero projection, I am pressing my nose to my hand now. The lavender is still present but now just a barely audible hum.

Final thoughts: The drydown is enjoyable but I’m unwilling to tolerate the fragrance to get there. Because it has a long finish that smooths out significantly better than I originally predicted, I feel it’s only fair to offer a neutral rating.

05th January, 2020 (last edited: 12th January, 2020)

Silver Musk by Nasomatto

I agree with some of the reviewers here.
Spray this on and you will smell like freshly laundered hotel sheets and as such you will smell oddly fresh, inexpensive, with a very common scent. I am sure some linen style air fresheners come close. There is a tiny bite of musk if you listen carefully. It does last however.
Why would you want to pay £40 per 10ml to smell like this ?
Not me.

Fragrance: 6/10
Projection: 7/10
Longevity: 8/10
05th January, 2020

Terroni by Orto Parisi

This is apparently the biggest seller for Orto Parisi in Harrods.
So its a crowd pleaser. The manager eulogised over the dry down. A creamy Sandalwood. So I gave my arm 3 good sprays and sauntered off to the Stephane Humbert Counter - in short I found nothing of interest there with the exception of Black Gemstone which they had run out of suggesting that is their own crowd pleaser . Back to Orti Parisi:
It opens smoky spicy and almost sweet and a touch of incense. In fact not bad at all. Very versatile. Day time, night time, cold weather, and a tiny spray for warm weather. Was this truly going to be a purchase?
Unfortunately there as a dry down. The smoke and incense left and all you were left with was a bland creamy sandalwood.
I think this is what is called a phantom fragrance: Its all in the opening so that punters at the perfume counter will spray it , sniff it, want it and buy it only to take it home and found out they have been conned.
I would not have minded creamy sandalwood with depth, maybe some spice and lurking whisps of smoke to prevent you feeling that you are looking into an empty box where once was your fragrance. But then it would not be a phantom fragrance.

Fragrance: 7.75 in the opening for about 30 minutes. Then 5.5/10 for 2 hours.
Projection: 7.5/10
Longevity: 7/10

PS: Judging from another reviewer who commented that this is potent juice it looks like Orto Parisi has been subjected to the disgraceful watering down most of the Nasomatto range has been destroyed by. Nasomatto Pardon was a rare masterpiece. Now it is a thin crumbling mask. I am too upset for further metaphor.
05th January, 2020

Taklamakan by Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777

Well well. I never thought that I would smell anything more potent than Nasomatto's Absinth but here we are at Harrod's Stephane Humbert counter today. Three good sprays on the arm.
This is a beast of spicy oud resin amber and something a bit off putting, reminding me of an unpleasant smelling and intimate bodily part although after a couple of hours this largely settled. I really cannot imagine any possible scenario where this would be servicable. It made Nasomatto's Absinth look mild and meek in comparison but in reality it left me appreciating Nasomatto's smoothness refinement warmth and depth even more.
I think at this price there must be an Emperor's New Clothes effect with Cognoscenti delving into their imaginations and wishful thinking . So far I have smelt 3 of S H's creations and none really smell especially pleasant. The least offensive and even mildly interesting being Mortal Skin.
This gets a neutral because of the dry down otherwise it would be a hopeless thumbs down and off with its head.

Fragrance: 6.75 --in the drydown/10
Projection: Beast mode
Longevity: Best mode.
05th January, 2020

Pineapple by Demeter Fragrance Library

Sweet, canned pineapple in pineapple juice. The initial blast also has something synthetic, like makeup or residual alcohol smell, but that is very minor. Overall, it is pretty realistic and very pleasing.

Projection is good in the opening but doesn't hang around long, maybe one hour. The longevity is also poor as a skin scent, so I think using this as a boost to fragrances that need a sweet, juicy boost or as a layering scent are both smart ideas.
05th January, 2020

Ealing Green by 4160 Tuesdays

Beautiful green & persistent fragrance for outdoor time in either spring or mild winter days.

Thumbs up!
05th January, 2020

To Be by Police

What a cute frag. Tries to be a "bad guy" + YSL Rive Gauche Pour Homme at least when you smell it on others. Fails at it, but you accept it becasuse he asks you nicely. Different story when one wears it himself.

In terms of how it smells, it also shares the style of Joop Jump, Cerruti Pour Homme, Chopard Pour Homme and also a bit Guess Blue Seductive.

Conclusion: not tragic!

Originality 3/10
Scent 6/10
Longevity 7/10
Projection 6/10
05th January, 2020