Perfume Reviews

Latest Perfume Reviews

Total Reviews: 147368

Armani Eau de Cèdre by Giorgio Armani

It is a nice powdery scent and it has some similarity with Eau de Nuit (which I like), however, the smell of black tea has put me down and to me it makes it lean a bit towards the feminine side, also I don't detect any ceder wood and the tea note is amplified too much, maybe it should have been named Eau De Tea instead, therefore, not using much.
09th October, 2018

Armani Code Colonia by Giorgio Armani

It is a very decent scent, and it is in the middle of Original Code & Code Profumo, but sometimes it feels like original code, nonetheless, it has better longevity & projection. But, if you have original code & code profumo you might not need it.
09th October, 2018

Armani Code A-List by Giorgio Armani

This feels & smells like code ultimate, maybe slightly different, since code ultimate is discontinued, therefore, I would recommend this to everyone who doesn't own "Ultimate" or running out of it. However, this is also a limited edition release. I like both ultimate & A-List, however, keeping them both seem redundant.
09th October, 2018
Advertisement — Reviews continue below

Rose Cut by Ann Gerard

The sweet level of the opening is very high! Jammy roses are dominating and are paired with aldehydes which are not that sparkly as they usually are, a healthy dose of vanilla and a shy peony. In the base a big powdery note is intruding over the sweet rose and will take the lead into the drydown together with an abstract and synthetic floral/patchouli.
09th October, 2018

Sugar & Spice Collection : Redcurrant & Cream Cologne by Jo Malone

Not a bad gourmand experience of berries and musk, this Redcurrant & Cream Cologne by Jo Malone.

It's a definite fruity sweet experience, rife with red currants and strawberries, with a pleasurable dose of raspberries to boot. I smell the cream, but it isn't from any dairy note; rather, it's the musk that is used here, which ends up doing a nice job.

Trouble is, sillage and longevity are not great. Maybe if I'd freshly shaved and had applied it immediately afterwards, the results would be different (as has been the case with many fragrances I have tried or owned that didn't seem to last on less-than-freshly washed face).

But for the hour or so that this light scent does speak its peace, it is quite delicious and credibly constructed. Good luck finding a full bottle of this now discontinued scent for decent prices online!!
09th October, 2018

Sugar & Spice Collection : Lemon Tart by Jo Malone

Yet another gourmandish fragrance by Jo Malone, in the "Sugar & Spice Collection."

My overall impression: This is not a lemon tart scent, but it's a tart lemon. The overall depth and quality of ingredients seems to have fallen short of what the fragrance name claims it should evoke.

It's a synthetic smelling lemon with some sweetness and slight spiciness in there. I was wanting to experience something deep and rich, like a lemon tart tends to be with me; instead, this is a lemon-like statement that is too sparse and disconnected for it to be a true gourmand-citrus fragrance. Too bad. :-(



09th October, 2018

Sugar & Spice Collection : Ginger Biscuit by Jo Malone

Ginger Biscuit feels to me more like a feminine scent, and I had a hard time trying to connect with it as a man even with all edible fragrance notes within.

(It goes to show that a person's perception ultimately will overshadow his or her expectations and desires of a scent, no matter what the notes are; it's all in how the scent is crafted, as well as skin chemistry, environmental influences, knowing how other's respond to what they smell on you, quality / age of the fragrance, etc. etc.).

Anyhow...Jo Malone's "Sugar & Spice Collection" outing of Ginger Biscuit does come across as delicious, nicely constructed with enticing notes that create a layered, delectable natural experience. It's like a warm, buttery sweet biscuit kissed with lovely nutmeg and ginger spice, with caramel and vanilla being two of the most dominant notes.

Needs to be experienced to be understood and believed, then you can decide if THIS is something you'd like to smell like and experience for hours at a time as a bona fide gourmand scent.
09th October, 2018

Sugar & Spice Collection : Elderflower & Gooseberry by Jo Malone

Another wonderful, gourmand fragrance from Jo Malone's Sugar & Spice Collection.

I have consumed many, many lychees in my years, and I am very familiar with its aroma, texture, and appeal. Gooseberry is a small, tart fruit that is similar to currants, but I am not familiar with it at all. And black elderflower is a complex fragrance note, with aspects of melon, flax and violet leaf which is new to me, too.

The overall perceptions I got from testing this unique composition is sweet and sour, having inherent spiciness, and with a dominant, unusual floral presence of the black elderflower. Very few scents out there like this; and if you are a gooseberry fan, I'm sure that how this one compares to your personal experience will paint whether you like it or not.
09th October, 2018

Sugar & Spice Collection : Bitter Orange & Chocolate by Jo Malone

Earthy, dark, bitter cacao and orange creation from the "Sugar & Spice Collection" by Jo Malone.

Just take a look at the fragrance triangle, how edible every single note is!: Bitter orange, dark chocolate, coconut, cacao pod, and coumarin (tonka). This fragrance comes across as gourmand-citrus-sweet, appropriate as a part of Jo Malone's Sugar & Spice Collection. It touches on so many endeared snacks I have eaten, and it has that effect on other wearers as well.

Sad that it is discontinued.
09th October, 2018

Habit Rouge L'Eau by Guerlain

I had been curious about Habit Rouge L'eau for a few years, because of a few reasons. I love Habit Rouge, and L'eau is rated highly by many who love the original. Secondly, I love jasmine in perfumes, and L'eau purportedly contains a prominent dose. Lastly, I'm always on the lookout for a quality fresh fragrance (there aren't many), and what's not to like about a fresh twist on Habit Rouge?

Well, it turns out that L'eau is rather underwhelming. L'eau leaves out the wonderful lemon of Habit Rouge and uses orange - somewhat synthetic, and at odds with the rest of the structure. There is the jasmine, but its combination with the orange results in an accord that is jarring. I feel that it smells quite different from Habit Rouge, and the motif (or at least the key features of the Habit Rouge motif) is largely absent. There's no leather here. Instead, what I smell is a musky vanilla, semi-sweet, that combines with the jasmine and the orange to create a sickly, synthetic accord. I detect a similar accord in the dry down of Cologne du 68, with the major difference being the iris in 68 is replaced by the jasmine in L'eau. While sillage is low-key, L'eau drones on for hours and becomes increasingly grating.

L'eau emerges as yet another example of the difference between the Guerlain of then and the Guerlain of now, Jean Paul Guerlain and Thierry Wasser, and perfumery artistry vs. corporatocracy driven mediocrity. Sure, it's better than all the L'Homme Ideal nonsense, but that is not saying much.

Stick to Habit Rouge, or Le 3me Homme de Caron for your jasmine fix in a similar context, or L'eau Boisee if you crave freshness.


2/5
09th October, 2018

Elite by Floris

Zesty citrus with woods and burned sugar. The citrus is paired with oakmoss which gives an old school vibe, in the lanes of Chanel's Pour Monsieur and YSL Pour Homme. And the combination of lavender and juniper is adding a nice aromatic experience.
09th October, 2018

Dry Wood by Ramon Monegal

It is dry and woody, as the name suggests. It's also very sharp and after the initial sniff, I am only thinking how synthetic (in a bad way) this feels. I was intrigued by its name and I thought this will be to my liking, but it smells like many of the newer screeching woody generic designers that I dislike. Cedar and pepper with lemon, all synthetic and cheaply blended.
09th October, 2018

Rock the Ages : Tudor Rose & Amber by Jo Malone

Says Wiki:
"The Tudor period is the period between 1485 and 1603 in England and Wales and includes the Elizabethan period during the reign of Elizabeth I until 1603. The Tudor period coincides with the dynasty of the House of Tudor in England whose first monarch was Henry VII (1457–1509)."

Rock the Ages: Tudor Rose & Amber is a travel through the centuries to this bloody and turbulent period in England's history...lots of "red", to be sure. TR&A emphasizes red in the form of LOTS of rose note, tastefully accented by amber, musk, patchouli, bright clove, pink pepper, and ginger.

For the lady wanting a hearty floral-spice scent, this is the one to check out.
09th October, 2018
Advertisement — Reviews continue below

Rose & White Musk Absolu by Jo Malone London

A nice, smooth, well-crafted feminine rose-oud scent.

Rose water is a magnificent addition to this gorgeous outing from Jo Malone. The blend of notes yield a very natural smelling, lovely, balanced fragrance which is classy all around. And the level of musk amber are not pedestrian, but thoughtfully where they need to be.

This is how I'd like my woman to smell. :-)


09th October, 2018

Rock the Ages : Geranium & Verbena by Jo Malone

An ode to King Edward era aristocracy in England, Rock the Ages: Geranium & Verbena is a near-fougere unisex scent. It has an old-school vibe, with a fresh-spicy-aromatic-citrus quality overall.

Fragrance notes:
Top = bergamot, basil, verbena;
Heart = geranium, neroli, coumarin;
Base = vetiver, patchouli, vanilla, cedar.

Citrus-spice spray-on leads to an herbaceous green plus rosy lemony experience. Very soothing and a pleasure to wear all year round, esp. in warmer weather casual occasions.



09th October, 2018

Rock the Ages : Birch & Black Pepper by Jo Malone

A great scent with some heft and attitude!

Jo Malone's Birch & Black Pepper is an aromatic-fresh-spicy-woody-leather fragrance that can be worn by men or women. Fragrance notes include:
Top notes = mandarin orange, cardamom, black pepper;
Heart notes = birch, patchouli;
Base notes = gurjan balsam, vanilla, ink.

A very "active" scent, swirling around in its constituent notes and hitting you with different notes over time. Inky, papery, wood starchy and smoky are the immediate perceptions I get from this one. It's telling a story, an impressionistic scent reminding me of Commes des Garcons style with several of its own fragrances.

Unusual and compelling to sniff repeatedly (unless the scent turns you off somehow). Opinions vary on whether YOU would pull off wearing this atypical scent; a test spritz / decant would be the place to start then!



09th October, 2018

Rare Teas Collection : Oolong Tea by Jo Malone

I must agree with my fellow reviewer, drussell41, that I also felt that "Oolong Tea" by Jo Malone doesn't do justice to that exotic, smoked black tea note.

I have enjoyed oolong as a note in Bulgari's Black unisex scent, and I have enjoyed Twining's Oolong Tea cups. Personally, I KNOW what it is I am looking for, but - alas - I don't find it here.:-/

A nice scent, but don't call it Oolong Tea.
09th October, 2018

Nouveau Monde by Louis Vuitton

A better version of Dueto Parfums City Oud, saffrony/cardamomish oudh (stout, chocolatey, piquant, oily and super tenacious) and ghostly rose. Opening is spicy, cedary, rooty and kind of pencil shavings while along the way a chocolatey resinous rosey saffron takes the stage as the main protagonist. Woods (also a tad of patchouli) are lingering around till the end (dry, somewhat "gasseous" and "salty"). I detect cardamom and a tad of black pepper. A virile juice. Nouveau Monde could last on skin more than seventy hours.
08th October, 2018 (last edited: 09th October, 2018)

Grey Vetiver Eau de Toilette by Tom Ford

Starts off lemony, thin and metallic. The drydown keeps the dryness from the metallic feel but goes more in the green vetiver way.

Feels mature and dressed up, but versatile for weather.

Projection is average but persistent while longevity is good, lasts all workday.
08th October, 2018

Déclaration d'Un Soir by Cartier

Cartier is a house that always defies convention, and takes a lot of bizzare risks, yet consistently manages to stay relevant and "in the game" with their masculine releases, offering alternatives left-of-center compared to what else a guy could be wearing. This started with Santos de Cartier (1981), then continued on with Pasha de Cartier (1993), and the fantastic Déclaration (1998), then Roadster (2008). Most of the more zany flankers which filled the gaps have been discontinued and carry silly prices just because of the "only the good die young" hype which often forms the pathos of most vintage collectors, but Déclaration d'Un Soir (2012) has stuck around, even spawning a flanker-of-a-flanker intense version recently. Why such success? Well, it's hard to really pin it, but I'll venture a guess and say because Déclaration d'Un Soir smells much higher-end than it's top-shelf designer price thanks to a modern masculine dry rose edge that feels like a composition from a boutique Middle-Eastern royal house. Déclaration d'Un Soir is definitely no pour man's Amouage and there's no oud here, but appointed house perfumer Mathilde Laurent aimed to keep the original Déclaration pyramid intact, but build it out into what we find here, giving Déclaration d'Un Soir unusual complexity.

Déclaration d'Un Soir opens similarly to Jean-Claude Ellena's original Déclaration with bergamot, bitter orange, and an ozonic tinge, but the dry rose quickly reveals itself very early on and remains a dominant note throughout, reminding me of a great many Mancera creations which also have this shrill ozonic citrus and modern processed rose. There's a nice set of shoulders under the head of Déclaration d'Un Soir however, and the cold spices of cardamom and ginger found in the original are bolstered with pepper, nutmeg and cumin, adding a slight piquant dirty growl to accompany the rose, but still very "Western" and not in the barnyard like a lot of Middle East rose perfumes. The stark leathery and woody base is also intact, but the cedar, leather, vetiver, and oakmoss are joined by an Australian sandalwood note, which isn't the preferred creamy rich Mysore kind found in vintage or prestige boutique creations, but it's still recognizable. Sillage is quieter than one might expect, and like the original Déclaration, this one has plenty of unisex and transgender potential, as little about leather and woody dry rose says much to me besides fanciness, and anyone can (and should) be fancy from time to time. Watch me spin~ ...Anyway, this also has longevity comparable to the original as well, which is moderate.

Cartier bought at retail can reach Chanel and Dior levels of price, but deals abound for most of their line. Folks who found the juniper and artemisia of the original Déclaration too raspy or dry might enjoy the rose floral focus of Déclaration d'Un Soir, while fans of the original absolutely owe it to themselves to sniff this one, which almost beats it. You ultimately have to like rose to like this flanker, so while Déclaration is safer as a blind buy, this one is not, but does dip the toe more into a romantic aura thanks to that rose, while still retaining most of the safe-for-work versatility of the original. Comparisons are also drawn to the later Calvin Klein cK2 (2016), which seems to borrow the dry modern rose theme of Déclaration d'Un Soir, but surrounds it in science fiction synthetic notes like "wet cobblestone" and deliberately flaunts the unisex vibe; it's cheaper than the Cartier all around, but not better. Déclaration d'Un Soir is a great "almost-generalist" pale rose for all but the hottest and coldest of environs! Be sure to try the original Déclaration before this one if you've tasted neither, as so much of the appreciation for the line hinges on it. Huge thumbs way up!
08th October, 2018

Cubano Gold by Victory International

I'm compelled to review this fragrance simply because of how hugely surprised I was by it. Buying this was simply a roller coaster: the box looked great, so I was confident in that... then the price, though shockingly cheap, made me wonder about its quality...when I got it home and looked at the kitschy nightmare that is the bottle, I was once again worried...only to find from following sprays that this is in fact a lovely evening "clean" scent with the most subtle tobacco hint. If you find it, buy two bottles: it's definitely inexpensive enough to warrant it.
08th October, 2018

Daffodil by Demeter Fragrance Library

Daffodil by Demeter is a pretty bitter floral fragrance. It doesn’t smell too “fake” and projects well enough.
08th October, 2018

Amber Wood by Ajmal

Ajmal Amber Wood, while released by the UAE-based house in 2014, seems to be getting a lot of buzz currently, and for that reason, I picked up a decant.

It's immediately pleasing, a cold-weather-leaning mix of amber, woods, patchouli, and iris, with subtle hints of apple and lavender fading quickly into the main blend.

Amber Wood reminds me immediately of Mugler A*Men Pure Malt, but just a bit more powdery and sharp via the inclusion of iris, but the amber and wood with patchouli in Amber Wood more or less recreate the base of coffee and patchouli mixed with the booze in Pure Malt.

Performance is great, well above average in terms of both projection and longevity, especially the former, since it seems to project well off of skin for 4+ hours.

Retail pricing is higher, I imagine, but the best pricing I see for this is $140 on Finescents' eBay store and $185 on MaxAroma for a standard 100ml bottle.

Overall, this is a nice perfume, one that I like a lot, but Pure Malt is reasonably close and done better, without the sharp, powdery edges that render Amber Wood a bit challenging.

8 out of 10
08th October, 2018

Héritage Eau de Toilette by Guerlain

I blind bought this and.... how can I say it... NO.

Smells dated. Well blended as most of Guerlain's but this does smell dated, sorry.
08th October, 2018

Moschino pour Homme by Moschino

Indeed a wonderful chypre, I only wore Bel Ami vintage twice but I didn't get any overwhelming similarities. What makes this unique to me is the shock full amount of resins and amber which gives Moschino a middle eastern meets classical european vibe and hence the occasional oriental references that pop up here and there,
I love it best on the coldest days of the year, where the resins shine and balms.
It has crept up in price on secondary market but it can still be found at decent prices with a little digging.
When I get to trimming the collection this will stay for sure.
08th October, 2018

Un Jardin sur le Nil by Hermès

The opening is refreshing and more feminine than unisex with its green, bitter florals. Later the drydown just smells like a nice, woody simple scent.

Feels best for casual warm weather wear.

The nice opening lasts for 2-3 hours and then the drydown lasts into the 5-6 hour range. Projection is light to average throughout.
08th October, 2018

Hwyl by Aesop

Musky is the word to describe this scent. Just perfect for the cold winder evenings out.

I stop smelling it about two-three hours after applying it to my skin, so the sillage isn't all that great, but other people still can and have complimented me on it.
08th October, 2018

Sous le toit de Paris by Atelier Cologne

Green, sour and sharp. Lime with geranium and vetiver are all playing the biggest role at the start but then the violet leaf catches them and moves upfront. Then there is a transition through softer and creamy notes lead by tonka.
08th October, 2018

What Would Love Do? by Gorilla Perfume [Lush]

What would love do? Well, for half an hour it would entice you in with a good apple crumble and orange ginger syrup, and then for the next month or so it wouldn't stop banging on about patchouli and benjoin.

**/*
08th October, 2018

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Dominique Ropion by IFF

WARNING: This fragrance
May result in some kind of
Epiphanous state

If you fall asleep
While first experiencing
The utter weirdness

Of psychedelic
Barnyard Egypt alien
Future fruitiness.

It has pyramids
ETs, lightshow, universe
Turns into Vegas

And don't blame me for
Leaving out Moses, cat gods
Steve Jobs and the rest

All bordering on
Simulation awareness
Though to be honest

Mileage may vary
Near the speed of xxxxxxx light.
Thus, I refuse to

Recommend this here
Mind-blowing fragrance per se
Nor seeking it out

Since these results are
Unexpected, shall we say
And rather unique.

Instead, I merely
Leave one message of the dream
A point well taken:

That we should love truth
For its own sake, and not for
The power it grants.


(I know that's a "should", but substitute "can" if you want, since the original thought was without words, and is somewhat larger.)


It would be rude of me and violate the taught principle not to bring this back to perfumery and an actual review. This fragrance has a unique tension that shows not only stylistically, as a sort of old / new conflict, and as the usual good / bad thing, but there is even a really weird accord that feels solitary and unitary and whole like chypre - like a musical tone - yet it embodies the conflict. It was a "note" that felt both beautiful and unsettling at the same time - a slightly minor key. In many ways, this is the same beauty as certain real ouds, but by a different route, or changed in some ways, which may be extending the same oud facet to create a focal point with a different feeling.

I expect we will see some great fragrance derived from this on shelves - possibly in the luxe niche category, if it's not already out there. IFF never lets a great idea like this go to waste.

Not kidding about the dream. I love this hobby! I think being in a dreamy state can really open us up to the emotional and symbolic messages in fragrance, particularly with some starter cues from the perfumer (like poem titles, etc.) Brian C.'s review of the new Slumberhouse scent (6s&7s) was a great example.

Ok. Maybe time to go back to sleep. LOL.

Good night.
08th October, 2018
Advertisement