Perfume Reviews

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Total Reviews: 138397

Ma Bête by Eris Parfums

I love this strange little beauty! There is something about Ma Bete's vintage-y plushness that makes me want to wrap myself in it over and over like a warm and silky fur coat. The indolic jasmine combined with spicy woodiness make this scent deeply seductive and surprisingly chic, while its animalic essence adds a honeyed, slightly 'skanky' attitude that I adore. I swear I smell costus and civet in here--two notes that I love--and these combined create a naughty furriness that gives this fragrance its signature 'beastly' bearing.
19th September, 2017

Evergreen Dream by Gallagher Fragrances

This latest release from Gallagher Fragrances, Evergreen Dream, has all the makings of a great fragrance, and in fact reminds me of some very good ones.

It's the first entry from the house I've tried that's truly dominated by woods. Evengreen Dream's note listing is complex and long, and what it smells like to me is mainly a mix of pine resin and birch tar with some lavender and oakmoss for freshness and character, respectively. I can't say I get a ton of the galbanum or patchouli, but surely musk and cedar could be there, especially after a some hours of dry down.

It begins a bit sharper, likely due to the lime zest and grapefruit, but I don't specifically detect the juiciness of the fruit, but rather a generic sort of tang that hangs over top of the woody notes that start to emerge as the dominant accords very very quickly into wearing.

As it dries down, it's a predictably smoother, easier-to-wear blend, where the lavender factors in slightly but it's mostly the pine resin and birch tar duo, the stars of the show.

It reminds me, as Brooklyn Fragrance Lover points out, of the Tom Ford Private Blend Vert collection (Bois, Encens, etc.) in the greenness, but in its depth, it reminds me of Tom Ford Italian Cypress, perhaps some of the highest regards I can give a woody fragrance.

As with Daniel's other fragrances, Evergreen Dream performs very well and at $135 for 100ml, its pricing is agreeable, and much better than the abovementioned Tom Ford Private Blend offerings.

It only loses slight point for originality, and it's not quite as robust as the TFPBs, but it has very high value in terms of cost per ml and versatility, as it's a little more useful year-round than some of the over-the-top woody options out there.

7 out of 10
19th September, 2017

Habit Rouge by Guerlain

A classic ( edt 2016 ),citrus intense,leather,speacy ,flowers. Habit rouge for me is inferior to Vetiver,Coriolan,Heritage,Homme of Guerlain.Unisex IMO.
19th September, 2017
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Sådanne by Slumberhouse

Syrupy strawberry rose opening, with a bit of that oily undertone that some slumberhouse scents have (pear and olive?). There's something interesting under the surface, some note I can't put my finger on. There's also a weird pencil shavings note I notice. After the opening it's not that sweet on me, though it retains its syrupy texture. I definitely smell a touch of booziness, though I couldn't say it smells like champagne to me. Could have used a bit more tartness or an herbal element for more complexity.
19th September, 2017

Nuit Épicée by Decennial

I get powdery dry violet and almond with a touch of cumin and what smells like the sort of animalic wood note that's in feminite du bois and a lot of other serge scents. Unfortunately I didn't get the rhubarb opening - I love rhubarb! This is interesting but it's an amber without any "cuddliness" - it's dry and cold. Not for me!
19th September, 2017

Polo Supreme Oud by Ralph Lauren

Spicier oud scent with a cinnamon vibe. It can be found pretty cheap and my wife loves when I wear it.

My only complaint is that the longevity is pretty poor. In my experience, it has lasted 5 hours. It is safe to blind buy if you like M7.

7/10
19th September, 2017

Viking by Creed

Creed Viking opens with a sharp citrus, pepper, metallic, and cinnamon/clove note combination. This settles down fairly quickly into a spicy green wood fragrance. There is a wood quality, from Norlimbinol. Longevity of Viking is incredible for a Creed, 24 hours due to the use of norlimbinol. Trouble is with projection and sillage. Whether from nasal fatigue, or from the perfume's composition, after 1/2 hour the fragrance can't be casually whiffed without lifting your collar and purposely sniffing. There is no accidentally catching a whiff of yourself through the day. Viking is still there, but sits close to the body and those whiffs are not present after an hour. 6 hours into wearing it, I could still smell it if I sniffed my shirt, but not in the air. I had that trouble with Creed Himalaya, and I found that doubling the amount I applied worked to increase sillage. I used 6 spritzes instead of my usual 3. Trouble is you blow through a bottle twice as fast and for $500 that is a MAJOR problem. Overall this is a winner. The scent is novel and pleasant. I have a REAL problem with Creed's prices though. It is NOT worth retail, but I'd buy it if I got it for $120/50ml.
19th September, 2017

Musk Rose by The Rising Phoenix Perfumery

At first sniff it is probably easy to write this off as just another oriental built around a typical rose-oud axis. But like any good tale it unfolds itself at its own languid pace with enough twists in the plot to keep even the most jaded of noses enraptured.

The star of the show is without a doubt the rose. It is front and center, an opulent red ruby of a gem with facets that shift from citric tartness to boozy-velvety musk. Teasingly faint nuances covering a range from earthy-woody to buttery-creamy to herbal-spicy suggest a possible inclusion of aged oud, sandalwood, even henna. But having experienced genuine deer musk I don't quite get the sense that there is any in here although it does get musky as the rose retires with the passing hours.

Musk Rose is a remarkable scent, one that seems to unfold in slightly different ways with each wearing. The quality of ingredients is top-notch. Given the limited volume of sample at hand I can't help but feel like King Shahryar at the approach of dawn, held spellbound by Scheherazade's final tale and deeply sorrowful as 1001 nights came to an end.
19th September, 2017

Eau de Cologne Majestic by Bienaimé

BIENAIME – EAU DE COLOGNE MAJESTIC (1936)

Bienaimé's Eau de Cologne Majestic is a beautiful citrus-based cologne with herbal notes.

This fragrance, with its Mediterranean freshness, projects a relaxed atmosphere, indulgent in florals, citrus and herbs.

The lemon and orange are sweet, rather than bitter. The petitgrain and rosemary give it a nice dry undercurrent (there may even be a small drop of lavender here as well), while the rose and carnation lend it a spicy, but subdued heart.

I find with a number of vintage eau de colognes that much more care was lavished on the herbal support for the citrus than one finds in modern edc splashes. Such is the case here. A lovely summer splash, soft, subtle and light.

Top Notes: Bergamot, Lemon, Mandarin, Orange
Heart Notes: Neroli, Myrtle, Petitgrain, Carnation, Rose, Rosemary
Base Note: Sandalwood

Still available as of this writing from private sellers on the internet.
19th September, 2017

Cuir de Russie by Bienaimé

BIENAIME – CUIR DE RUSSIE (1950)

The following excerpt of Bienaime and his Cuir de Russie are from the writings of perfumista and collector, Alexandra Star. I agree totally with her review of the scent and cannot improve or dissent from her exemplary writing style and content. I therefore present her words (slightly edited), with her permission:

As perfumer for Houbigant from around 1910 to 1930, Robert Bienaimé created one of Houbigants all time best sellers, Quelques Fleurs, a floral bouquet. He continued to create for this house until sometime shortly after the 1929 stock market crash.

In 1935, Bienaimé launched his own Paris fragrance house, where he began to create fragrances under his own name. Bienaimé fragrances continued to appear during the 1940's and existed until 1950, but it would appear that the house did not survive for long after WW II.

Among Bienaime’s mostsuccessful scents was his Cuir de Russie. The"Russian Leather" theme was popular, having been used to great effect by Chanel, Guerlain, and others. Unlike today when fragrances must carry unique names, in France in the first half of the 20th Century, a number of marketers might hit on the same, or a similar, name.

After five to ten minutes Cuir de Russie recalls fumed rawhide, the soft scraped skin, smoked to a light brown color but not soaked in birch tar. Resinous notes of cistus and styrax, smooth and transparent, appear cautiously, and if smoked birch tar is present, it's in a very minor quantity. The animalic character is complemented by a very natural soft musk and warm civet. Later, beneath the resins are found bitter woody chords: notes of oakmoss and vetiver, with smooth warm balsamic notes and possibly orris.

In the last gasps the perfume gives a slightly sweet warmth, but not that of flowers. Instead it's the warm underside of a leather belt, just taken off the body, and a thin benzoin sweetness. The composition starts with aldehydes, moderated by a mild nectar of the classical trio of rose, jasmine and ylang-ylang. The ending comes as a smoky, animalistic note of dark leather.

Top notes: Orange Blossom, Bergamot, Mandarin
Heart notes: Rose, Jasmine, Ylang Ylang, Iris, Labdanum
Base notes: Oak Moss, Vetiver, Cedar, Styrax, Cistus, Leather, Amber, Civet, Musk, Vanilla


19th September, 2017

Diaghilev by Roja Dove

I have had a sample of this in a cabinet for years. Just tried it tonight. It is opulent & beautiful.
19th September, 2017

Polo Red by Ralph Lauren

One venti decaf
Red Berry Cool White Powder
Polo latte please.
19th September, 2017

Essence No. 7 : Neroli by Elie Saab

A FK study of Neroli. If you love Neroli you will love this perfume. Honeyed Orange Blossom with nuances of Cardamon and Ginger and the "Metallic" that comes off more like Chalk Wall to me.
Neroli has a natural counterpoint within it's note.
Used as a counterpoint in complex perfumes I see it as tremendously important.
Singular and as nuanced study falls flat for me.
19th September, 2017
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Jasmin Rouge by Tom Ford

For me it opened with a bitter citrus rind and the bugspray / green waxy side of jasmine. But it quickly softened and sweetened with neroli and ylang. The midnotes definitely play up the sweet, warm bubblegummy aspect of jasmine with the banana-y ylang and the mexican vanilla. I was hoping for more spices like in Shanghai Lily. Maybe it's just my skin.

Unfortunately, without the animalic lust of jasmine or the interest of spices, this perfume has no teeth. It feels like an exercise in making a jasmine perfume that explores it's components - but jasmine never actually shows up to the party itself.
19th September, 2017

Cornubia by Penhaligon's

A truly nice mix, Cornubia is a combination of heliotrope, with its sweet marzipan smell, fused together with clove. There's a really nice cherry/jasmine/rose element in the topnotes, as well as powdery vanilla soap in the base.

I like Cornubia, but (and this is going to sound kind of ridiculous) I find it frustrating because it's *almost* wonderful. With a little more effort (perhaps some chypre basenotes for added complexity, a little sparkle on top, and tweaks to the concentration to amplify the richness), this could have been a masterwork along the lines of the legendary Carons and Guerlains. Don't get me wrong - Cornubia is a good perfume and deserves an enthusiastic thumbs-up, but I just wish they'd put in the extra effort to create something amazing for the ages.
19th September, 2017

Pi by Givenchy

In part this is an orange version of Le Mâle. (Actually it's closer to Fleur du Mâle even though this came first.)

Pine and tarragon attempt to lift the heavy, sickly balsamic sweetness but as these lighter notes fade it sinks more and more into an orangey vanillic blob.

Whenever I go into a service station toilet the smell of orange urinal screen reminds me of this. Pi's orange flower and honeyed balsamic elements - with their affinities to certain nether regions - would certainly make a good masking agent, and IF it were the case that Pi was a source of inspiration for the sanitiser smell this'd be a classic case of trickle down, from fine to functional, from Pi to pee.

However, all laughing and joking aside, this is so excessively 'nice' it's unpleasant, and without any redeeming edginess, it fails.

**
18th September, 2017 (last edited: 21st September, 2017)

Eau de Muguet by Coty

Coty was a perfumer of great genius. He single handedly created the chypre and amassed a huge fortune from his capacity for creative vision and hard work, but he had blind spots. He once said when Jacques Guerlain does vanilla he comes up with Shalimar, but when I do it all I get is crème anglaise, custard.

He had the same problem with Lily of the Valley. Perhaps it was because he grew up in the era of naturalistic bouquets - perfumes that did little more than try to replicate the scent of real flowers - in a romantic way perhaps - but with a mind set that was fixated on realism; and without modern sythetic materials that was the most they could aspire to. Coty's first masterpiece, the delicately beautiful La Rose Jaqueminot was naturalistic. It had many nuanced facets but never strayed far from being a pink rose.

And Eau de Muguet? It's not good. It has shiny realistic Lily of the Valley leaves, and the tender pale rosy bells leeching their hearts into the mix, but it's incredibly crude. It doesn't achieve anything more than a washed out lemony and feeble pink rosiness with a slightly woody and rubbery undertone, a highly approximate likeness to the real thing. Where his best perfumes are subtle portraits, Eau de Muguet is but an illustration.

Coty lacked the molecules that modern perfumers use to recreate these inextricable flowers like muguet; this along with his incapacity to finesse the problem into the abstract (he was after all a pre-modernist) and his enormously determined egotism, left Coty with no other recourse than to compose a functional, work-a-day, and utterly uninspired rendition of muguet.

It would not be until Edmond Roudnitska came up with Diorissimo in 1956 that a decent muguet would be achieved, and even then it wasn't a soliflor but a jasmin bolstered interpretation of the flower, not a direct portrayal. For that we have to return to the incomparable delights of mother nature.

If neither Coty nor Roudnitska could crack muguet, who will? and who really wants to any more?

**
18th September, 2017 (last edited: 19th September, 2017)

Naja by Vero Profumo

I greatly admire this perfumer/house in the same way that I admire Bogue. Their scents are always vastly original and striking, if not always entirely wearable. I think Onda in its original extrait form was one of the true greats. I wouldn't rank Naja up there with Onda, in terms of unique and vivid oddness, but it is quite a bit more approachable, and for many wearers, this will be a plus. I love its opening: the deep punch of tobacco, but am slightly less enamored of its segue into melon and osmanthus. This is merely personal taste, and if you are a lover of these two notes, you will be a fan. For me, this scent is a bit too powdery-sweet and I miss the strength and depth of the animalics that can usually be found in her fragrances and that keep me sniffing all day in anticipation of yet another layer of the uncommon.

*Okay, that's what I get for writing a review after only sampling for a short bit. After two day's wear, I have done a pretty thorough (and slightly embarrassing) turn-around on Naja, and now genuinely love it from its tobacco-y beginning, straight down to its almost Tabac Blond-like ending. What on first sniff seemed powdery, now smells deeply and unctuously leathery and totally luscious (and surprisingly vintage-like) in its depth. After trying a larger amount and spreading it on more copiously, I am a complete convert. Full bottle, here I come!
18th September, 2017 (last edited: 19th September, 2017)

Pasha Edition Noire by Cartier

A softer, more wearable version of the original. The sharp edges and sometimes screechy citrus and lavender in the original are toned down with amber. I like the original Pasha, but it can be untameable on the wrong day. Noir is it's laid-back cousin, who really doesn't care what your situation or body heat may turn into. It can behave. Thumbs up.
18th September, 2017

Tom Ford Noir Anthracite by Tom Ford

Really a rather decent fragrance that ought to have a sizeable market appeal as there aren't many new releases from mainstream designers with any edge. If nothing else, Anthracite has a bit of bombast in at least the first hour. The feature to my nose is in the spices. I get a strong cinnamon, pepper and maybe even a touch of asphalt (I know that's not a spice). Slightly reminiscent of original Polo Green, back when Polo Green was still produced as a wearable fragrance. I also caught later similarities to Italian Cypress in the dry down, yet in a sharper mode. It seems to be a great effort to create something in a nostalgic style, rather than a derivative of the original Noir. Perhaps I'm just getting old. I'll acknowledge the effort with a thumbs up.
18th September, 2017

Kiehl's Original Musk by Kiehl's

Not my favorite musk by an stretch, but an excellent one for those whose ultimate musk scent includes flowers and a only pinch of something animalic in the base. This is a 'dirty' musk at its least offensive and could be worn by anyone, anywhere, and anytime. There is something here that smells a bit synthetic or sharp (that I think others might call 'clean'). This note bothers me no matter how many times I try to wear this, but I'm pretty sure this is a personal problem that won't disturb anyone other than me. I've heard that many famous folks wear this: Julianne Moore, for one, and each of them, in turn, describes this musk as attractive and enticing, and yes, clean.
18th September, 2017

Trussardi Uomo (original) by Trussardi

Stardate 20170918:
Vintage Version.

A leathery incensey floral Chuck Norris.
One of those fragrances that wear you.
Sillage and longevity is great.

It shares its DNA with VCA Pour Homme as well as Leonard PH. Similarities with Smalto, Montana and others noted in other reviews are apt.

One Million of the 80s, though 1000 times better. The development is great. Dries down to spicy powdery tobaccoy sweetness.

Nothing to dislike. Just get it.



18th September, 2017

Viride by Orto Parisi

Viride is my second try from the house of Orto Parisi after Boccanera, and like Boccanera, I quite like Viride. Again omitting specific notes, perhaps a feature of this brand like Nasomatto, Viride is a green and woody fragrance as generally categorized.

It's hearty, with plenty of depth, so a mix of woods is what mainly comes to mind, though there's a slight, subtle brightness that allows it to be, at the same time, sort of green.

I can't quite discern what notes are involved, only that there's an earthy side to it as well, perhaps with patchouli or vetiver.

Performance is outstanding, as it was with Boccanera, definitely a little more impressive on longevity than projection, as many are, but still powerful juice if you dig the fragrance. The price of even a perfume ($195 for 50ml on Luckyscent et al) is difficult to justify unless it's a love, as almost $4 per ml is on the pricier side for sure.

Viride is certainly a fragrance worth trying, but I doubt anything but a dramatic price reduction could make me have any serious interest in buying it. Still, I rather like it, just don't love it.

7 out of 10
18th September, 2017

Neon Graffiti by Jazmin Saraï

Based on a Déclaration style cardamom and a mineral - grapefruit Terre d'Hermès accord, Neon Graffiti takes the two Ellena styles and revs them up into incense and concrete overdrive.

To get inspiration for Neon Graffiti, Dana El Masri says she fed the drum and bass 'urban jungle' sound of Sunshowers by M.I.A into her synesthesic brain, and what came out the perfumery end was like she had sprayed a lime green and shit brown tag on the Osmothèque. Nice rebellion! Except almost nobody noticed. Perhaps it washed off overnight. El Masri qualifies as A Disrupter because she did this a good couple of years before Peau d'Ailleurs' more studied milkshake and concrete vision of Urban Alienation hit the streets, or rather hit the niche perfumery boutiques.

Once again perfumery is oddly out of synch with fine art. Street Art, (the art world's posh name for graffiti) was all the rage years ago and now it has properly returned to being seen as just vandalism, whereas decorated concrete seems to have only recently emerged as an edgy underground theme in the perfumosphere.

As well as the cold concrete backdrop of the Menardo & Starck, there's also an earthiness, a spicy warmth that's thrust to the fore of Neon Graffiti which gives it a more accessible feel. The warm end of the spectrum makes it more wearable, but not much so because it builds to an intensity that simply bulldozes any questions about 'plagiarism' or its 'heavy use of cardamom and incense' which threaten to unbalance the composition.

Neon Graffiti goes ahead and imposes its vision, regardless of accessibility, and it is one powerful vision. And then, with the final trick that El Masri gleaned from Ellena, it fades to next to nothing in no time.

Not exactly the Writing on the Wall, but this is evidently a woman to watch.

***/*
18th September, 2017
Oviatt Show all reviews
United States

Mahon Leather by Floris

Mahon Leather is firmly lodged in Floris's masculine camp but the iris and jasmine give this more than a little feeling of leather feminines of the past like Cabochard and Bandit. There is definitely leather here, but it shares the limelight with a beautiful vetiver note, all underscored by a realistic saffron. Like most Floris offerings, this is well-behaved and gentlemanly. The quality of the ingredients is evident from the start and results in solid performance. Mahon Leather is a great scent for men wanting a classic, traditional scent with a slight floral/spicy twist. Women who love traditional leather scents and vetivers like Sycomore and the Guerlain vetivers will find this well worth looking into.
18th September, 2017

Allure Homme Sport by Chanel

Not for me!! Really disappointed after hearing so many positive reviews. I can smell metal. Horrible metal!! Boring, bland, uninspiring!!
18th September, 2017

273 Rodeo Drive by Fred Hayman

I absolutely LOVE 273 Rodeo Drive by Fred Hayman. A beautiful floral that is quite strong and long-lasting. It is worth every dollar at this price. I wear 24 Faubourg by Hermes every once in awhile, and I get a ton of compliments when I wear that; however, 273 Rodeo Drive gets just as many compliments and it seems to last forever on my skin and clothing. I hope they never discontinue 273 Rodeo Drive, as I hope to wear it for the rest of my life! I LOVE IT!!!
18th September, 2017
Oviatt Show all reviews
United States

Dry Wood by Ramon Monegal

Ramon Monegal's Dry Wood is a dry scent, but the wood it references is in fact quite green, wood not long from feeling the axe and saw. The green wood is accompanied by pepper and a slightly bitter herbal note (Oregano? Marjoram? Marijuana?) that gives it a savory food note not unlike the celery note in Yatagan. Perhaps it is the Bay note that gives it the savory gourmand note. Finally, the green moss note furthers the green feeling to this scent, giving it the slightly retro feel of bracing green herbals from the past like Alliage, Private Collection and Yatagan. The Norlimbanol, however, which is so widely used in modern masculines, keeps this firmly in the present. Like Yatagan, there is a complete lack of floral notes, which makes this masculine-leaning, but in line with the green goddesses of the past.
18th September, 2017

Gucci Bloom by Gucci

I love tuberose but, although this is well balanced, this floral is a bit too fresh, too green and too light for me.
18th September, 2017

Scandal by Jean Paul Gaultier

A very nice honey and floral fragrance. I almost bought a full bottle instantly, when I saw I could get a free miniature. It's not cloying. I find the bottle a bit "kitsch", but it's well done and very different. Try it, it's worth it.
18th September, 2017
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