Perfume Reviews

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Oud Yusuf Organic Oud by Ensar Oud

Sweet, Floral, lightly Fruited and Whiskied. Clean background of sugared Varnishes. Refined, Elegant, lightly Camphoured Drydown. Some would say Chamomile. Lovely Vanilla-ed Wood finish.
This is a softer introduction to the beauty of Oud and can be identified in some of the highest quality Oud perfumes.
Recommended.
08th October, 2018
Shycat Show all reviews
United States

necromancy by Sixteen92

Sixteen92 website lists "funeral flowers" in the notes for this one.

That means carnation.

Necromancy gives up it's carnation up top and immediately, but instead of trying to brighten and lift that note, cf. PdN Sacrebleu, this variation lets it sink into a darker environ. A sweeter place, and nope, there's no extra air. The carnation rides lightly after about an hour to the deeper base of sweetly warm and sensual incense and benzoin. The oud is not forward even after a couple hours. I don't find anything clean or fresh, and neither do I find anything that challenges my olfactory moral compass.

This turns out to be an easy wearing comfort scent, softly sweet, warm and inviting. I find it to lean to feminine or a particularly smooth masculinity. Proof that true evil is the ultimate seducer?
08th October, 2018

Second Skin by Anna Zworykina Perfumes

Anna Zworykina Second Skin proudly embodies a kind of indie super-massive concept of boozy fruity/flori-oriental, a ideal sort of mixture of several Slumberhouse's alchemies (Vikt, Sova, Jeke and Baque jump more than vaguely on mind) but with an its own mature european rosey/soapy/waxy final chyprey undertone a la Maai Bogue or (back in the past) Roccobacco and Youth Dew. Second skin is a warm, intimate, intellectual, assertive perfume, an animalic contemporary experience with an historical massive chypre background a la Zoologist Civet. Les Liquides Imaginaires Bello Rabelo is another syrupy viney juice jumping significantly on mind. Tobacco, immortelle (appointed in a burnt syrupy way a la Hdp 1740 Marquis de Sade), animalic resins and cognac are heady under my vulgar nose. Cognac in particular provides a quite dandy/lofty posh aura of luxurious leather upholstery-bound ambiences. Overall is supported by rooty/leafy elements from the "forest-undergrowth", orangy ylang-ylang and tuberose. The latter is a floral utterly influencing element (almost paired by ylang-ylang) implemented in a quite resinous burnt sugary "form". The juice is well appointed, super-calibrated, "huge", musky and wise, a "cultured" palatin 800's serum for womanizer idealists, ruined kinky noblemen and old parisian antique-dealers.
07th October, 2018 (last edited: 08th October, 2018)
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Clémentine California by Atelier Cologne

What a shame! This opens up so nice, and vibrant. Bought a sample of it finally, it's been on my test list for a bit. I see where people say it's overly feminine, because after about 5 minutes, it sways that way, but I still liked it, until.. I go to smell my hand and hour later, and it turned into something just bad. It doesn't smell like any citrus, and it doesn't even smell floral anymore. Just kinda smells like rubber, Chlorox, and some type of dog shampoo.. disgusting, yet intriguing. Yet not worth the price, even on sale.
07th October, 2018

Santal Sultan by Ensar Oud

The joy of this blending is that it's heart centres on the Resin Varnish,mildly Cedar-ish Profile of Sandal and incense offers a light dustiness ancient.
I haven't put my nose to the Ensar Royale, however I wonder if it shows more of the Creaminess many like in Sandal.
In any case the Sultan dances most excellent with a tiny dot of ROSECO2 or Rose Otto. Heavenly!
07th October, 2018

Tropical Cherimoya Cologne by Jo Malone London

Whoah! I believed that this was an interesting new scent
strongly worth checking out. The bottle was fancy, and the name enticed me forth to explore something special.

Tropical Cherimoya Cologne by Jo Malone has some exotic ingredients I had to research:

* Cherimoya - a South American, edible fruit-bearing plant tasting of bananas, coconut, strawberries, mangoes, papaya, and pineapple
* Copahu (copaiba) - bitter, pungent, balsamic resin taken from the Copahu balm tree in South America
* Passion flower - tendril-bearing vines, shrubs or trees found primarily in Mexico, Central and South America, bearing colorful, showy flowers which have been used for tea and have a sweet, floral fruity scent

This cologne has a strong South American vibe to it, that's for sure!

Now, as for actual perception / performance...TCC isn't quite as exotic as I'd hoped. :-(

The fancy ingredients don't seem stick out much nor last very long to be truly enjoyed and appreciated. (The sweet, fruity Cherimoya is almost non-existent.) There is a slight tropical flair to this one, but it smells more generic than revolutionary, as I hoped it would with the above three notes.

This one ends up being more of a slightly fancy white floral feminine scent with tonka standing out with more durability and a disappointing, overly familiar counterpoint to the triumvirate of fancy South American notes I was wanting so much to enjoy.

Meh. :-/

07th October, 2018

Rare Teas Collection : Darjeeling Tea by Jo Malone

Hmmm....I am a heavy drinker of Darjeeling Tea at home, and I'm talking brands founded in my homeland of India.

Well...I wanted to like this one, but walked away very alienated from the very thing that I consume regularly! In its own right, RTC:DT is a fruit-floral experience that is pleasant and wearable. But somewhere, things feel like they were lost in translation by the noses behind this one! :-/

Darjeeling Tea is a dark tannic experience, especially when it's drunk black. There are floral elements, but not to the extent implied in this scent. The freesia and jasmine come close, but this fragrance requires darker, deeper elements outside of floral (e.g. citrus, herbal, fruity, vegetal).

Plus, as much as I swear by cups of black Darjeeling teas on a regular basis, I am not sure that I'd want to SMELL like it, necessarily! A batch of great Darjeeling tea with its selection of fragrant notes are great to behold by eye, nose and tongue, but to be soon dissipated to make way for cookies / crumpets and other goodies that accompany it, remembered for its fragrance but not meant to wallow in. But that's just ME.

(This would not apply to me when it comes to the use of green, oolong, jade, or other tea notes, by comparison.)

So enjoy this fragrance as it is, but don't call it Darjeeling Tea! >:-)

07th October, 2018

Lanvin L'Homme Sport by Lanvin

A really nice, soothing citrus-lavender that’s very easy to wear. Has a classic, timeless feel to it, not super modern and not old-school either. Just smells clean and fresh without being overly sweet, green or bitter.

Best for casual wear in warmer months.

Modest projection makes this a great office scent. Longevity is above average on me lasting into the 8 hour range but again that’s with modest projection.

07th October, 2018

Pomegranate Noir by Jo Malone

Excellent uniting of a myriad of thoughtfully selected fragrance notes!

Jo Malone's Pomegranate Noir includes:
Top = raspberry, pomegranate, plum, rhuburb, watermelon;
Heart = lily-of-the-valley, jasmine, rose, pink pepper, clove, olibanum resin (frankincense), opoponax resin (sweet brown myrrh), guaiac wood;
Base = virginia cedar, patchouli, musk, amber.

The meshing of exotic edible and non-edible fragrant notes yield a scent full of woody, fruity, resinous and spicy accords. It's rich, pungent, powdery, dark, and has a "mature" quality to it which younger wearers may not connect easily with.

Both men and women can enjoy this deep fragrance especially during cooler weather and for informal occasions. Longevity is great, and sillage is nice!

Enthusiastic thumbs up for this masterpiece!
07th October, 2018

Pine & Eucalyptus Living Cologne by Jo Malone London

The term "living cologne" threw me off, but then I looked at the candle that Jo Malone sells by the same name, and I understood better what that meant.

Pine & Eucalyptus is a limited-edition scent from Jo Malone capturing the essence of winter life. If you imagine the holidays and its typical smells, this is one of them for sure!

The crisp aroma of sweet pine is woven with velvety eucalyptus to create a revitalizing ambiance. It's an evocative scent that lasts for hours on my skin, with really decent sillage as well.

Whenever I wear it, Pine & Eucalyptus brings me feelings of warmth and serenity in any occasion, especially in cooler temps. Given the universality of the experience, I believe both men and women can equally enjoy this! :-)

07th October, 2018

Orange Bitters by Jo Malone

No shortage of orange and general citrus in this creation...at least initially!

Jo Malone's Orange Bitters scent starts right out with an orange-citrus flurry, touched with plum juiciness. Mixed with prominent amber resin and sandalwood, OB becomes a creamy, almost gourmand type scent; the citrus does fade out fairly much over time, which was a bit of a letdown (though I'm not entirely surprised).

It ends up with a fresh, powdery woody-citrus vibe that leans heavily in the masculine direction (but women can still enjoy it, IMO). Not a linear scent, which may dash the experience / expectation of many.


07th October, 2018

Nutmeg & Ginger by Jo Malone

Spicy, fresh fragrance from Jo Malone which, indeed, feature Nutmeg & Ginger with slight support from sandalwood and cedar. Marked as unisex, I find that it leans masculine.

This one isn't loud nor brash by any means. It is actually slightly tamed in overall strength, remaining above skinscent. Pretty straightforward, and as such may alienate or disappoint some wearers.

It feels fit for mixing with other Jo Malone scents, which I know many have done.



07th October, 2018

London Rain Collection : Wisteria & Violet by Jo Malone

Beautiful painting of a gentle morning shower, apparently drenching the enigmatic wisteria flower found in London.

Jo Malone certainly selected some fine ingredients for this "London Rain Collection" scent: Water lily (aqueous floral spicy sweet notes), wisteria (clove and lilac qualities), violet (powdery iris-like note), and patchouli (earthy, woody herbal edge). Simple construction, and overall what I experience is a floral-fresh scent full of sweet flowery and wet sensations.

An unusual, distinctive scent for me, as I am not at all familiar with wisteria; I will take Jo Malone's word for it about it hanging on London walls, etc. :-)

Can be worn by men or women, though it may be more suited for ladies.
07th October, 2018
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White Jasmine & Mint by Jo Malone

Very feminine scent that is so-so, to me at least.

White Jasmine & Mint by Jo Malone would not be a scent I'd wear, but that's not why I rate it as a neutral. WJ&M is a green floral that has a jasmine here that is too outside of my normal expectation - like it's a different flower entirely that is beyond my comfort level. Mint smells a bit average, and along with the mate's bitter softening effect on the white jasmine, I couldn't quite connect with this scent.

On a lady, it'd smell okay, not fantastic. Clearly, this is an acquired taste scent, and I'm not loving it. :-/
07th October, 2018

London Rain Collection : Rain & Angelica by Jo Malone

A beautiful, aquatic-amber creation from the "London Rain Collection" from Jo Malone!

This one is meant to evoke early morning dew of London Parks. Lime starts the spray-on, mixed with a nondescript, aqueous "rain accord" note, which together set that "drenched morning" tone. The unusual pungent, sweet angelica herbal note mixes nicely with the tangy opening; vetiver adds its grassy, chocolate-y sweet and earthy presence.

The result is a naturally musky, fresh aquatic fragrance that I'd gladly wear during warm weather, casual occasions. Sillage is decent, longevity is okay.

For me, an evocative fragrance that is worth a whole bottle! :-)

07th October, 2018

London Rain Collection : Black Cedarwood & Juniper by Jo Malone

Woody, fresh and spicy aromatic creation from the "London Rain Collection" by Jo Malone.

Black Cedarwood & Juniper was meant to evoke images of London showers falling at midnight. Constructed from cumin and chili pepper in the head, juniper in the heart, and cedar wood in the base, BC&J has an interesting rainy day in an urban setting vibe, to be sure.

Cedar feels a bit watered down here, oddly enough; I'm used to a stiff, starchy wood cord thing from cedar, but not here. Juniper is aromatic and stands out among all other notes, supported by non-sweaty subtle cumin (which adds a bit of the urban feel to the scent) and chili pepper.

Overall result is woody and fresh, a basic fragrance that is no longer discontinued and back in the Jo Malone collection again.
07th October, 2018

Tyrannosaurus Rex by Zoologist Perfumes

Tyrannosaurus Rex opens with a face slap of hot dry smokey leather. The initial scent is so bold that one spray is probably enough for most people. It settles down, eventually, but my first test spritz lasted all day with strong projection and a very masculine tone. Black Pepper, nutmeg, cade smoke, with patchouli gives the leather of T Rex a prickly abruptness that while bold and very much an outdoorsman in character also brings soft inner depth from sueded osmanthus, expanding rose, quiet of champaca, mellow ylang, and sparkling sandalwood. The leather here reminds me of Mona di Orio's Cuir but not quite as bold and much easier to wear. Built into this prehistoric big fella is a huge personality but also a soft inner depth that makes it very enjoyable to wear.
07th October, 2018

Jasmine Sambac & Marigold by Jo Malone London

A sweet, white floral and balsamic scent from Jo Malone.

Jasmine Sambac & Marigold - from the "Cologne Intense" series in the black bottles - is a more feminine outing that attempts to make the legendary jasmine sambac and marigold flowers central to the experience. Honey is intentionally used to soften the "edges" of the fragrant flowers, along with the banana-ish touch of ylang flower.

This is a more watery-sweet rendition, coming across as more delicate versus, say, a truly strong perception as with Tom Ford's Jasmin Rouge EdP. All this points to Jo Malone's tendency not to create beast-mode fragrances as a whole, rather simple, subtle showcases of scents.

For what is here, I as an Asian do appreciate the jasmine and marigold notes greatly, both of which has dominated my life's experiences in the forms of garlands, scented holy waters, incense sticks, and perfumes proper. Ultimately, JS&M won't steamroll your friends and peers when worn.


07th October, 2018

Cologne Intense Collection : Velvet Rose & Oud by Jo Malone

A basic, laid-back take on the rose and oud combination fragrance.

I need not parrot what others have already said about the number of rose and oud scents that have littered the landscape. When it comes down to it, if you don't mind a toned-down version, then Jo Malone's Velvet Rose & Oud will work for you. If you haven't already experienced oud scents generally, you'll find out that there are some LOUD varieties out there. Be it Montale, or Armani, or Tom Ford, or Zegna, or etc. etc., heavy-hitting oud combo scents are legion for the brave and brash souls.

VR&O is a softer, slightly spiced and sweetened oud combo scent. It's more "accessible" and wearable for those who only want to smell casually connected to the magical rose plus oud pairing.

Having been solidly collecting several oud scents from so many makers over the years, I can say that this one is one of the most well-mannered ones out there.

07th October, 2018

Cologne Intense Collection : Saffron by Jo Malone

Saffron as a culinary and perfumery note has fascinated me for decades: Whatever it touches, it adds its crisp, earthy, bittersweet sensual herbal scent. Any fragrance designed to showcase saffron will immediately grab my attention!

Jo Malone's Saffron fragrance notes include:
Top = pink pepper, incense, bergamot;
Heart = iris, sandalwood, saffron;
Base = amber, musk, guaiac wood, woody notes.

This is an incredibly warm and fragrant creation, with a subtly effervescent saffron nestled within. Every other note does its part to accent its multifaceted, elegant qualities and adds a tasteful amount of iris powderiness and sandalwood and musk's sensual traits.

Projection is moderate, as is the longevity. A wonderful creation that is discontinued, sadly.
06th October, 2018

Cologne Intense Collection : Rose Water & Vanilla by Jo Malone

The abbreviated note triangle above doesn't account for one of the biggest traits of Rose Water & Vanilla: the Turkish delight candy known as "Rahat Loukhoum", made of starch and sugar.

Fragrance notes:
Top = neroli and petitgrain;
Heart = rahat loukhoum;
Base = patchouli, musk, vanilla, rose water

Jo Malone's Rose Water & Vanilla, overall, waxes feminine in large part due to the candy note. It's a gourmand scent, touched lightly by perfumed rose water. Quite a sweet-tooth of a fragrance, with an orange-like sugared jelly candy savor, along with a strong hit of neroli and vanilla surrounding all of this.

Very interesting scent that, alas, has been discontinued. Glad I had a chance to sample it when I did, as there are few fragrances out there like this.

06th October, 2018

Cologne Intense Collection : Oud & Bergamot by Jo Malone

A compelling fragrance using three citrus notes and two woods...Oud & Bergamot by Jo Malone is an agarwood-centered fragrance with a straight ahead, clean citrus mix starting things out in the opening spray. This unfolds into a bright, powdery body with a moderate amount of oud. The cedar wood - a note I've loved for decades - seems a bit more pronounced than the oud, but together they slightly reinforce each other's "woodiness."

This is a fresh woody outing (recreated with a more ambery vibe with Jo Malone's Bergamot Rich Extrait perfume). There is a spiciness that isn't contributed by any separante note per se, but is derived from the inherent traits of the woods and citruses being used.

Great day or night casual scent, for both genders.
06th October, 2018
sappho Show all reviews
United States

Monocle Scent One: Hinoki by Comme des Garçons

On me: a blast of citrus, fading immediately into a smell of wood and acrid smoke that is, somehow, completely unlike woodsmoke. Memorable; I can't decide if it's unpleasant or not. I'll be keeping the sample for days when I'm bored but won't be buying a full bottle. Gone after about 3h.
06th October, 2018
Shycat Show all reviews
United States

Ruby by Bruno Acampora

The extrait opens for me in a blast of sour cherry mocha, but it settles in the ten requisite minutes to pure dark chocolate sans coffee, tonka bean, brown sugar, and bourbon rose. There is a lifting berry vibe, but what berry? Your guess is as good as mine--probably better--but it's this aspect that seems to be driving my pleasure.

There is the slightest dusting of powder for softness. And musk. There is the warm, enveloping, gutteral musk of Acampora fame.

At 45 minutes, the sugar has retreated. The booze? I think it's still here, faintly, and this is the heart. Pretty steady. The sour note seems to swell and retreat repeatedly. Either that, or I get used to it, get distracted, and come back to it with fresh senses.

At 3 hours, I try to analyze where things are. I think it's gone a more floral and I'd believe you if you told me there was orris here, and violet. It is settling closer to my skin.

I'd believe you if said there's some cinnamon here. The vanilla has become an undertone. Cocoa is ever present--and for the first time I think of it as cocoa--dry, without a creamy component. Without sugar.

I can't stay up to see the end of it. 6 hours and it seems firmly in a fluctuating state of perpetual balance, swaying between floral gourmand and gourmand floral. I'm realizing just now that it's not a dirty musk after all, simply not a clean musk.

I must end this review frustrated by my foolishness in putting on a new fragrance for my evening scent. Bed calls me, the sunrise threatens me, but Ruby...she comforts me. I'm happy to curl up with her company, and I look forward to waking.

Edit to add: Be warned. Apply with care.

I'm at 14 hours and this is not quite a skin scent yet. The floral quality has passed, but I still am pleasantly scented with chocolate and fruity musk--I woke up and the dry cocoa phase had passed.

I'm wondering if I've gained weight from it. -_-
06th October, 2018

Voyage d'Hermes Parfum by Hermès

I have a lot of perfumes in my collection and I've smelled 100's of samples. This EDP-strength version of Voyage d'Hermes is my absolute favorite. It's a very cedar and cardamom scent.
06th October, 2018

Cologne Intense Collection : Orris & Sandalwood by Jo Malone

Elegant oriental-woody-floral fragrance from Jo Malone's "Cologne Intense Collection."

Fragrance notes: violet, galbanum, geranium, orris, cyperus esculentus (Cypriol), labdanum, amber, sandalwood, musk

Orris and violet really stand out in this scent, together creating a sweet powdery quality to Orris & Sandalwood. Cypriol is an amazing addition, mimicking traits of vetiver, cedar, and patchouli. There is a definite "lipstick"-like nature to the overall scent. THAT may turn some guys off; I was able to overlook it and focus in on the the wonderful smokiness, slight sweetness, and creamy sandalwood.

Exotic, well-crafted and worth a sample!
06th October, 2018

Cologne Intense Collection : Myrrh & Tonka by Jo Malone London

An almost gourmand fragrance, Myrrh & Tonka by Jo Malone is an oriental-aromatic-balsamic experience that captivates the mind and heart.

There is a lasting sweetness that dominates over M&T, touching on the lavender's inherent medicinal clean herbal quality, fancy resinous Omumbiri myrrh, bittersweet almond, vanilla and tonka.

It smells luxurious and mature, full of character. Has more sillage than the typical Jo Malone scent, as well as great longevity. Equally wearable by both genders.
06th October, 2018

Cologne Intense Collection : Iris & White Musk by Jo Malone

Great showcase of iris with musk, an interesting combination that I give kudos to Jo Malone for making.

The fragrance notes for this simple, effective scent includes iris, lily, tonka, white musk

Nice musky, clean floral formulation. Comparisons can be made to Kiehl's musk fragrances, also having an animalic musk vibe to it (more so than I'd like, actually).

Long-lasting and linear. Better on a lady, but men can try it on too, IMO.
06th October, 2018

Azzaro pour Homme Limited Edition 2015 by Azzaro

The opening orange note is dry and medicinal, like a chewable vitamin. I didn’t like this one at all but wife said it was nice and clean with some freshness. It’s not an overly mature scent either like the original.

I’d say warm weather and casual events will work best.

Performance is average both in projection and longevity.
06th October, 2018

Cologne Intense Collection : Incense & Cedrat by Jo Malone

Incense & Cedrat is an oriental-balsamic-woody fragrance from Jo Malone's "Cologne Intense Collection."

Olibanum (frankincense) plus pepper occupy the key roles of mimicking incense proper, and they - along with the assortment of other notes - create such an effect.

Very nice, rich, resinous sweet creation that was one of the scents I had to get a free sample of to try at home.
06th October, 2018
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