Perfume Reviews

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Total Reviews: 138397

Tobacco Vanille by Tom Ford

Tobacco, vanilla, and lots of spices. Everything with very good sillage. I tried it on along with other fragrances and it went over everything else. I bought it without thinking. It became a favorite, instantly. I think it would be very suitable for men but I'm a young female and I love it.
18th September, 2017

Un Bois Vanille by Serge Lutens

As the name says, it opens with spicy wood and softens with a beautiful creamy vanilla. I like it a lot.
18th September, 2017

Cool Water by Davidoff

I loved this cologne in middle school. But then again, I didn't no jack about cologne back then. All I knew was that it smelled completely different from what my dad wore, so Cool Water was essentially cologne for my generation (even though it came out in 1988).

Poppinj's review is pretty on the nose. At the time, Cool Water sent everything that came before it to the old folks home. But now, despite Cool Water still having a "freshness" to it, you see older guys occasionally wearing it because that's what they wore when they were young.

What makes it bad for me, is that I wore this in middle school, and it was so popular that I find it almost repulsive now. Which is weird because it's a nice scent that I can appreciate when getting a sample in Macy's. But if I smell it today on people, or even on myself, it's like getting dog piled by bad memories.

If you're somehow not familiar with Cool Water, I think you'll love it. However, how can you not be familiar with it?

18th September, 2017
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Legend Intense by Montblanc

The first blast of this got this cold, fresh, rich scent that is amazing. But it very rapidly dries down to this sugary sweet, pastry-like scent. I hate those types of fragrances. It reminds me of Invictus, and I don't like Invictus because it's like a powerhouse of cookies or sweets, and that stuff is cloying. And yet...women love it.

Anyway, for Legend Intense, it's similar in that sugar-sweet vibe, but there's at least a degree freshness here that isn't quite as heavy as Invictus, though it's still strong. And although I don't want to be smelling like a dessert in the literal sense, I have to admit, the spritz I put on my wrist had me thinking about eating my arm.

This is definitely not for me. I like old school powerhouses, I like 90s aquatics, but stuff like this I don't like.

But Legend Intense does smell clean, and I feel like it's the sugar-sweet men's cologne done right, I guess.
18th September, 2017

Portraits : Monsieur Beauregard by Penhaligon's

On me, this mostly smells like butter, mixed with cinnamon and clove. It's essentially a rich, buttery Spicebomb, or for more seasoned perfumistas, an update of Miyake's discontinued cult favorite Le Feu d'Issey. Given time, as the butter fades, it makes room for sawdusty sandalwood while the spices continue.

In terms of writing an informative review, I'm kind of torn. On the positive side, the mix of butter, wood, and spices is well done. These types of scents often end up smelling like cheap Christmas potpourri, but Beauregard avoids that trap with the carefully crafted mix of butter and wood. However, on the negative side, I can't shake the feeling that this is influenced by (but shockingly simple when compared to) Serge Lutens. In total, I like Beauregard and appreciate its craftsmanship, but feel like there are more artful options out there for fans of this sort of thing.
18th September, 2017

Mulholland by Keiko Mecheri

As I slowly make my way through testing (& happily buying) some of Keiko Mecheri's collection, it has become clear that there is something very special about this house. Aside from the obvious beautiful presentation in crystal-like clear & dark glass bottles, each and every fragrance I have tested has been carefully thought out, constructed, and is a joy to wear and experience. Mulholland is no different and I truly relish the experience when I wear it.

While Mecheri describes Mulholland as an olfactive immersion into the era of psychedelia and the hipness of Hollywood, I really struggle get that association. It's primarily a fresh citrus opening with only the very vaguest hint of patchouli, then a lovely sandalwood/amber style drydown. To me, Mulholland is very much in the same style as Armani Prive's Vetiver Babylone/D'Hiver. That is to say that although they don't smell very similar they do evoke the same sort of feeling. A bright, natural and lovely citrus followed by a slightly spicy, dry and warm base. Mulholland is not as dry as the Armani and has a noticeable sweetness. Truthfully I would have preferred a bit more patchouli to give Mulholland a touch more earthiness, but this is still very nice as it is.

I agree with others that this is truly unisex and probably very nearly appropriate for most occasions. I get good longevity at about 6 - 7 hours maximum, but sillage is quiet. At retail prices, this may be a bit expensive, but if you can get it on sale like I did, it's worth every cent.
18th September, 2017
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Horizon Extreme by Davidoff

Horrible scent, an instant scrubber for me.
18th September, 2017

Scent Intense by Costume National

Good for a casual atmosphere. Not thrilled.
17th September, 2017 (last edited: 19th September, 2017)

Muscs Koublaï Khän by Serge Lutens

I consider Muscs Koublaï Khan to be a well done basic musk, that is versatile and engaging. It is rather straightforward to me - musk and florals. The musk is fresh but sensuous, with a touch of civet and castoreum that lend an animalic touch - clean but slightly edgy. I perceive a subdued note of rose that effortlessly blends in with the musk, and even complements it. I do not detect any spices or woods or leather - MKK has a solid focus on the musk with minimal distraction. I find sillage to be close but persistent, and duration to be over six hours on skin based on a generous application.

MKK is one of those simple fragrances done right with quality materials, and a few notches above the standard fare in terms of execution. For anyone familiar with Kiehl's Musk, which is fresh and summery, MKK can be imagined to be a slightly heavier autumnal version of Kiehl's. While overpriced for what it is, MKK is a must try for anyone looking for a robust musk fragrance for everyday use that is interesting, and becomes a second skin to the wearer.

17th September, 2017

Dragonfly by Zoologist Perfumes

Outstanding. Minerals and flowers. I think the concept is dead on, it evokes the image of dragonflies landing on a lotus pond. Wish the opening lasted longer. Wow.
17th September, 2017

1697 by Frapin

A somewhat odd scent that takes an inordinate time to get anywhere worthwhile. It seems the point of departure is something along the lines of: put everything we can find that's creamy, sweet, and boozy in one pot and hope for the best. Fleshy flowers sit along side rum, musk, and vanilla, but they are not easy bedfellows for much of the development. My only point of reference is Carner's equally off-beat Palo Santo. As with that, I don't really see what is being done and would welcome a more stripped-down and plainer approach. However, it does eventually dry down in its death throes to a pleasantly spiced vanilla, but it's not worth the wait in my book. Enthusiasts for unconventional grourmands - if that's even a thing - might get their kicks here, so you never know.
17th September, 2017

Eye, Hatshepsut by Charenton Macerations

Genre: Floral Oriental

To describe Eye, Hatshepsut as a floral oriental is accurate, but not adequate. It smells more like a floral and an oriental lain side by side, without necessarily blending into the conventionally seamless whole of an Ysatis or Byzance. To put it another way, Eye, Hatshepsut juxtaposes a buttery, indolic white flower accord and an incense-laden, spicy, woody oriental accord like layers in one of those fancily poured cocktails, without ever stirring the glass. My nose distinguishes indolic white flowers - particularly jasmine, animalic musk, cypriol, cinnamon, iris, frankincense, labdanum, and something oddly fatty or waxy smelling – perhaps the listed “tallow” note.

The construct sounds like something that could be obnoxiously loud, but in this case it isn’t. Eye, Hatshepsut’s olfactory volume is very carefully modulated. It projects well off the skin and leaves distinct sillage, but it’s never blaring in the manner of, say, Fracas, Poison, Giorgio, or Boucheron. More “come hither” than “get out of the way”, if you will. Eye, Hatshepsut is intended to evoke the ancient Egyptian khyphi incense, but as I have no idea what khyphi is supposed to smell like, I can’t say how well it succeeds. It does manage to smell exotic and rather compelling by turns, with smoky and animalic undertones that distinguish it from more traditional floral oriental offerings. While offered as a unisex fragrance, the conspicuous white flower accord at Eye, Hatshepsut’s heart may put some men off – and that’s coming from a guy who wears Carnal Flower and Tubéreuse Criminelle in public. An appealing oddball scent, but sample first.
17th September, 2017

Elite by Floris

Genre: Fougère

Floris Elite seems to me a rather staid, conventional aromatic fougère composition. All of the pieces are duly assembled and in the right place. Lavender? Check. Coumarin? Check. Bergamot? Check. Geranium? Check. Dash of spice? Check. Maybe even a touch of oakmoss. The result? A very traditional “barbershop” style masculine that, while perfectly serviceable, competes in very crowded territory.

Bigger, more ambitious alternatives like Jules, Equipage, Lauder for Men, or Arquiste’s new Él offer greater complexity and character. Brighter, sprightlier competitors like Aramis Tuscany per Uomo offer more grace and humor. All stand on the broad shoulders of Azzaro pour Homme, granddaddy of the genre, which still smells richer and deeper than the Floris at a fraction of the price.

Nice enough, in the end, but liable to get lost in the shuffle.
17th September, 2017
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Nevermore by Frapin

No, no, no. Opens with that sharp chemical opening in Black Aoud but doesn't develop into nearly as good a fragrance, and that synthetic magic marker thing stays throughout. Frankenrose
17th September, 2017

Monsoon by Dame Perfumery

Floral unisex fragrance that is fresh and subtle. The iris and lilly of the valley gives it the feminine side, and the cedarwood balances things out to give it the masculine side. 7/10
17th September, 2017

Jubilation 25 by Amouage

Jubilation 25 is like the mash-up of two of my favorite scents: Mitsouko and Diorella (both in vintage form). But, it contains a rather heft dollop of cumin that makes the whole thing sing in a slightly different, more animalic register than the other two. How this scent's genuine elegance is maintained while also referencing a rather sweaty human is a mystery, perhaps aided by leavening effect of frankincense and tarragon and lemon. This is my favorite Amouage, by far, thanks to its competing, but contrapuntal elements of lightness and dark, sophistication and sweat, chypre-likeness and orientalism. The extrait is my preferred poison. It is slightly deeper and more rich than the EDP, and it lasts a bit longer, too. Gorgeous stuff!
17th September, 2017

Brooklyn by Bond No. 9

Citrus-oiled new wood
Smells like possibility
Clear but not empty.
17th September, 2017

Flower's Barrow by Gorilla Perfume

I was given a partial full 9 mL bottle of this. I'm glad I didn't have to use up the full one! This was a difficult scent, cloying, and lasted FOREVER on the skin. I found t was occasionally just right, but those moments were few and far between. Smells intriguing and slightly spicy in the bottle, but does not translate well to (my) skin.
17th September, 2017

Brit Rhythm for Her by Burberry

Feminine. A wearable, pink macaroon. Wispy. Breezy. Sparkling. A fun concoction. It puts a smile on my face whenever I wear it. There's just enough of an aldehydic burst to balance it out.
17th September, 2017

In Black by J del Pozo

Musky. Soft wood. Muted, gourmand-like, musty floral. Smoldering. Modern oriental.
17th September, 2017

H.O.T. Always by Bond No. 9

H.O.T. Always is a perfume of three parts, which aren't exactly three phases. These are some warm spices and aromatics that lend a 'hot' touch and approximate the spiciness of chili peppers, a subdued touch of florals, mainly rose, and a patchouli-driven leather accord. The initial spicy aspect is quite well-done, rugged, and suggestive of a barbershop style. The patchouli lurks in the background as the floral accord becomes prominent; soon the patchouli is front and centre, with the leathery aspects coming to the fore. At this stage it is quite reminiscent of Givenchy Gentleman. It maintains this structure till after a few hours there is a vetiver that joins the leathery dry down, while other floral or spicy aspects are greatly diminished. H.O.T. Always has a close, discreet sillage and an appreciable duration of about six hours on skin.

One of the issues with H.O.T. Always is that it veers dangerously close to Givenchy Gentleman, but lacks the civet of the vintage version of Gentleman. As a result, the overall composition suffers from a hollowness, and a lack of sensuality. While it is more full-bodied than the current version of Gentleman, it is, of course, lacking in dimension next to vintage Gentleman - mainly due to absence of civet, a somewhat inferior blending, and the spicy aspects being less smooth. Nonetheless, it is definitely worth sampling for what it is - one of the better Bond No 9 fragrances, a more potent alternative to current Gentleman, and a near-novel initial spicy accord.

17th September, 2017

Alaïa Eau de Parfum Blanche by Azzedine Alaïa

This is a beautiful fragrance. It is nice and soft, with a musky and milky vibe. The projection is low/moderate, but the longevity is on the short side at about 2-3 hours. It's really lovely if you are looking for a nice vanilla powdery scent topped with white florals lightly dancing in a cloud of milk. It's not too sweet and almost gets that playdough note, but never crosses the line. It has a similarity to Donna Karan Liquid Cashmere White or Costume National So Nude EDT. If you like those scents, then you will like this, but I like Alaia much more.
17th September, 2017

Sleeping by Elsa Schiaparelli

This is absolutely stunning! Schiaparelli dared to dream and created a nocturnal essence to whisk you away to dreamland. Captivating spices, dreamy vanilla, amorous amber and sensual musks intertwined with bergamot and orange and a hint of lavender. A brighter, less moody Shalimar in my honest opinion and of superb quality!
17th September, 2017

The Dreamer by Versace

This stuff is delightful. It's not hyper-masculine. I'd call it a pretty scent of iris and tobacco, but not smoky, more like the plant itself. And you can find this scent for cheap at most discount stores like Ross/tjmaxx/marshals. Don't pay department store prices for this.

Solid longevity
Good sillage

I give it a 9/10 with the cheap availability giving it that extra boost.
17th September, 2017

Cologne Intense Collection : Incense & Cedrat by Jo Malone

I actually really enjoy most Jo Malone fragrances. And I think this or English Oak and Hazelnut are the two best offerings. There is always a freshness with the Malones, something bright, and none ever seem to be overdone. This one has citrus at the top and throughout for me, mostly orange even though it's lemon that is listed. The frankincense would be perfect if there were just a bit more in it. The cypress really does it for me though!
17th September, 2017

Cologne Intense Collection : Oud & Bergamot by Jo Malone

Simple but a great scent! Just wished it lasted longer.
17th September, 2017

Open by Roger & Gallet

Stardate 20170916:
Vintage Version:

A nice powerhouse of the past. Herbs, Lavendar, Pine, Patchouli. Soapy too.
A sophisticated fragrance for less than $20. Can't beat that.
There are similarities with Quorum, Polo, Revillon PH and I guess others from that era. But this is its own beast.
development is good, drydown great with patchouli bringing in some soothing balmy effect.
Great for hot humid days.
17th September, 2017

Cuba by Czech & Speake

Now that I've worked my way through the Czeck & Speake line, I feel like their perfumes often start out a bit awkward, with occasional questionable topnotes, but they tend to melt together after about an hour into something quite well put together. Cuba is a perfect example of this. It goes on with burst of toothpaste mint that awkwardly smothers a weirdly meaty and medicinal fougere fern. But somehow, given time, it melts into that leathery sweaty old man smell that Le Labo uses a lot, but with a dash of pie spices for warmth and a rather nice sweet musk drydown that quietly hints at Musc Ravageur.

All in all, I really wanted to like Cuba, and I enjoy the musky basenotes, but I think the mint is a mess, so I'm just going to vote neutral.
17th September, 2017

No. 88 by Czech & Speake

Honestly, it took me a few tries to warm up to 88. It goes on smelling like a fairly typical natural oil perfume - that mix of greens, flowers, and herbs, but 88 wraps its naturals in a chemical sheen that makes everything much louder and brighter than a natural perfume would be. Given time, it reaches a point where it stays most of the day: primarily geranium, with hints of rose for brightness and leafy green herbs for depth. It wears a lot like Brut, not that 88 smells like Brut, but it shares a lot of DNA and has a similar old-school masculine heft and volume, so I think fans of one would probably enjoy the other.

And, for those who care about such things, I've officially received more compliments wearing 88 than I have for anything else in years. One random college girl actually said I smelled like someone's sexy dad, so um, there's that...
17th September, 2017

L'Envol by Cartier

A big thumbs up for this. An extremely elegant fragrance of honeyed, musky florals and resinous woods.

Like Claire V, I too pick up a very large violet leaf note in L'Envol. It is pretty much front and centre with the honey for me.

I was slightly concerned that the Guaiac Wood, when it made its entrance, would overwhelm the composition but it retreats quickly, blending beautifully and lending a warm, resinous depth.

It could be skin chemistry but I am bewildered how some have this down as a weak perfume. It was after two weeks of owning L'Envol that it became incredibly strong and long lasting with significant projection. I have to be very careful with the sprayer. Despite this, L'Envol never feels heavy. Mathilde Laurent has achieved brilliance in expressing great depth and clarity in each note whilst maintaining an overall feeling of lightness; true, it seems, to the name of the fragrance.

I consider L'Envol to be an excellent fragrance that treads a different path to many releases of the moment. Bravo Mathilde et Cartier!

16th September, 2017 (last edited: 23rd September, 2017)