Perfume Reviews

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United Kingdom

Terre d'Hermès Eau Intense Vétiver by Hermès

Grapefruit, orange and bergamot in the top notes deliver a fresh opening blast, not a strong one but a blast more on the elegant side. Nice.

The drydown and a slightly spicy undertone, combined with white florals - oleander and geranium mainly. The base adds a cedar-like woodsiness that remains present until the end

I get moderate sillage, good projection and six hours of longevity on my skin.

A nice and summery opening that it very pleasant, but the rest is too generic to really convince. 2.75/5.
08th April, 2019

Platinum Égoïste by Chanel

I'll give this one a thumbs up although It's not really my thing!!

On the whole PE smells pleasant. If find it a fragrance that sparkles. Has a fizz about it. Smells a bit like champagne. There are some aquatic notes for sure.

The problem for me is that this really doesn't smell up to the standards of Chanel. Smells kind of generic and a tad cheap.

Okay for the younger crowd.

08th April, 2019

H.M. by Hanae Mori

Hanae Mori is one of the oldest and longest-running couture houses from Asia, and Hanae herself is one of only two female fashion designers from Asia to present her collections on the runways of Paris and New York. Additionally, she is the first female Asian designer to have her work designated as haute couture by Fédération Française de la Couture. With all that being said, the efforts of this house in the field of perfumery were modest to nonexistent until the 1990's, with just one perfume under the name of Mori herself issued as Hanae Mori (1968) 17 years after her house was established in 1951. By the mid 90's that scent would be rebooted under an entirely new composition as Hanae Mori (1995) once again in most markets, but as Hanae Mori Butterfly in others. Following Thierry Mugler's lead with Angel (1992), this new eponymous perfume was a gourmand composed by Bernard Ellena (brother to Jean-Claude) and was released to some acclaim. The men's version was manifest two years later by an unknown perfumer for Hanae Mori, released as both and eau de toilette and eau de parfum - a rare move at the time, under the name Hanae Mori HM (1997). The funny thing about about Hanae Mori HM is it seems chock full of floral and gourmand notes, blending in a "graying" effect similar to Calvin Klein cK One (1994), but with much richer effect, yet isn't marketed as a unisex scent even if it really is in appeal. Once the subject of much hype for its performance, complexity, versatility, and mass-appeal, the stuff lives quite a peaceful life decades on in discount stores like Nordstrom Rack or in perfume shops, but is still a pleasant and impressive wear even so many years after its release.

Hanae Mori HM opens powerfully with a blast of creamy lemon, lavender, and what the company describes as "green notes", ringing an all-too familiar bell just like cK One, but adds a juicy blackcurrant contingent that gives a teeny bit of presage to the future luxury masculine perfume king Creed Aventus (2010). While I won't say Hanae Mori HM has any niche qualities or even niche aspirations in the same way snooty colognoisseurs might define it, but the overall opening of Hanae Mori HM is niche in design if nothing else, since blackcurrant was far from a common note in the mainstream nadir of 90's masculines. The comparisons to cK One don't necessarily stop with the top, but they do diminish as a beautifully sweet jasmine comes into the forefront when the heart emerges, flanked by muguet, rose, and a soapy iris note which also reminds me of Versace The Dreamer (1996) or a less-intense version of Dior Homme (2005). The base is full of white musk, calling direct ties to cK One once again, but the scent's gourmand facets really shine through upon dry down with vanilla and cacao layered on a fougère base of amber, oakmoss, and coumarin. If anything, this is cK One reinterpreted through the lens of Thierry Mugler with dashes of oriental heft for good measure. Hanae Mori HM is complex, sweet, not too cloying, compliment-getting, and borderline romantic. The eau de toilette focuses more on floral and citric aspects, while the eau de parfum is all about that base, but both versions give mighty longevity and sillage, so go light in warmer weather. I'd say this is a generalist just like cK One as well, but not quite as versatile in the hottest of days, and not fresh enough for sporty activities.

Hanae Mori flies way under the radar now that gourmands have all but become of niche interest themselves, but can be found for relative pennies compared to the level of sophistication and performance it sports by checking online or local discounter shops. Anyone liking Dior Homme and cK One can get a taste of what they would be like smashed together with a huge hit of jasmine on top, infused with knockout performance to boot. It might not be every CIS-gendered straight guy's cup of tea, because Hanae Mori HM is not very "butch" for a masculine-marketed fragramce, but for everyone else outside that sector (which dominates perception of said fragrances in mainstream circles), Hanae Mori is a surprising option that avoids the many minimalist-inspired pitfalls of the decade in which it was conceived. Hanae Mori HM is anything but a boring 90's fragrance, despite hailing from a decade known for some of the most snooze-inducing exercises in apology ever conceived in the fragrance industry, especially at the market level Hanae Mori perfumes usually sit. I can see why it was praised for so long until age and trend caught up with the hype and quieted it down in favor of other styles seemingly better-suited to the online reviewer hype machine. I see this as more than the sum of its many parts, and deserved of its sleeper hit status, but you have to be okay with blended musky floral gourmands like Rochas Man (1999) or Yohji Homme (1999) to even be in the right headspace for the way this finishes on skin. Hanae Mori HM is definitely worth a sniff and if bought, I recommend the eau de parfum over the eau de toilette for a greater "fullness", especially if this is to be used as a daily driver in any capacity at all. Thumbs up!
08th April, 2019
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Jacquard by Etro

Basically a spaced-out iris/angelica perfume along the line of Chanel's No 18, cold and icy and oddly mineralic and salty, but then layered with a citrus cologne smell, along with a huge shot of sparkly synthetics on top.

For a perfume that does a lot of things that I really enjoy, somehow Jacquard gets things a bit off. Instead of the different elements combining into a fantastic citrusy, sparkly iris, it actually comes together to smell like a weird salty rock that's vaguely sprinkled with bergamot, iris, and paint fumes. Given time, it dries down to a rather austere iris/vetiver mix that, again, I feel like I should like but lacks warmth to the point that I don't.

This may win over serious iris fanatics looking for a dry, mineralic take on the genre, but it feels to me like a bit too much going on, ultimately losing the plot and most of its appeal.
08th April, 2019

Gucci Guilty Absolute pour Homme by Gucci

Once I make it past the bandaids-and-dettol opening this is truly unpleasant, nauseatingly synth. Clearly it has lots of fans, not a few of whom give it 10 while saying they don't like it and wouldn't wear it. Huh.
Me? It induces a blinding headache. It is very loud and lasts a very long time, come what may.
08th April, 2019

Ambra Aurea by Profumum

Starts out very rich and complexed with that initial niche style amber smell that is prominant in Ambre Russe and a few others , sort of warm and skanky, soon enough I'm reminded of Tom fords tobbaco oud with that dry smokey feel , however the fragrance never becomes dry or overly ashy, a start that through experience I didn't pass off, I couldn't stop smelling my hand, it evolves into the ambergris dry down I'm accustomed too in many creeds but the ambergris in this is accentuated to another level and becomes the fragrance as a whole, it's really addictive and seems to get more and more sexy. To summarize, this is a smoked ambergris fragrance of the highest quality and concentration , it may seem expensive but for what you get it represents amazing value, 12+ hours of top quality.
08th April, 2019

Spicebomb Night Vision by Viktor & Rolf

It doesn't feel anymore "get it out by Friday" than this folks. I don't really know what to say without turning this review into a string of jokes at Viktor & Rolf's expense, but I imagine that is what most people not entirely brainwashed by marketing will do if they get a sniff of this blind. Here we have a flanker that really isn't one, since it has nothing to do with the original Viktor & Rolf Spicebomb (2012), but that is nothing out of the ordinary in the 21st century since several mainstream perfume houses have long since abandoned new pillars in favor of reusing what "sells" by making endless flankers of a successful line. Viktor & Rolf Spicebomb Night Vision (2019) goes way beyond that though, delivering magically only 90ml instead of 100ml in the same size and shape bottle as the original for the same price, and delivering a scent that is the olfactive equivalent of what we called a "suicide" as kids: going to a soda fountain and mixing all the flavors into one cup and drinking it all together. The commercial admittedly shows a rather attractive nude man being peeped on through night vision goggles from an adjacent window (which is not something I recommend doing unless you fancy a jail cell), but this marketing doesn't even really speak to what is inside the bottle. Shameful...

For starters, Viktor & Rolf are so desperate to send home the "green" theme of the packaging and commercial that they are sticking the word "green" onto notes frivolously. Green cardamom? What's that? Green mandarin? Isn't that just an unripe orange? Come on guys. Nathalie Lorson is a good perfumer, and so is Pierre Negrin, but they must have just done "as they were instructed" here with this, because there doesn't seem to be any real creative input in this scent beyond following the brief as instructed, as if they were micromanaged. The opening is rounded sweet cardamom spice, the only real link to the original Viktor & Rolf Spicebomb, and the orange really isn't there as listed. I also don't get much "granny smith apple", nor really any apple at all, but the grapefruit comes through. Following this, it's a mush of synthetics that I cannot identify, but I get sage, geranium, bits of nutmeg, and some pink pepper that is also called "green" for no reason. The base is syrupy tonka bomb territory loaded with ambroxan and norlimbanol. There is "roasted almond" listed but again, I don't get it. I think there is some serious Firmenich chemical wizardry here, and if this is green like anything, it's Frankenstein's monster. Sillage is hefty, and you will asphyxiate anyone in the room with your "green" cloud once you leave, although longevity falls off quick, which is a secret blessing in disguise. Definitely a clubber juice, I can still think of better ways to get your party on than Spicebomb Night Vision.

If this scent fills a niche in Viktor & Rolf's lineup, it is the "sweet fruity club bomb", but by trying to be both a tonka bomb and ambroxan bomb at the same time, while also having synthetic gourmand and oriental notes to boot, this crosses too many streams to be anything other than a hot mess in a bottle. Bits of youthful fruit and mature spice, dry woods and office-safe synthetic ambergris with club-friendly tonka and enough sugar to send me into a coma, this ticks off every box on the check list of how to make a modern mall fragrance that people will love for five seconds then love to forget once they realize it isn't going away. There are a lot of modern synthetic mass-appeal scents that I like, or at least find tasteful or well-made in spite of their paint-by-numbers focus group design, but Viktor & Rolf is so insultingly facetious, vulgar, and ambiguous in intent, that it feels creepy like the peeping Tom using the night vision goggles in the accompanying television ads for the stuff. Rather than say to stay away, I'll just say go have a cautious sniff of this at your nearest department store, or likely nearest night club, as I'm sure the liquid equivalent of Herbert the Pervert will be making the rounds there soon enough. If Viktor & Rolf is going to make any more such fragrances on creative autopilot, they should at very least strive to make them inoffensive like many of the forgettable male scents from the 90's. Thumbs way down.
08th April, 2019
08th April, 2019

JV x NJ [Crimson] by John Varvatos

The joint venture between John Varvatos and Nick Jonas was expectedly commerical and uninteresting outside the demographic that scent targets, since not many guys even in the mainstream realms are going to admit any affinity for a former member of the Jonas Brothers, a Disney rock outfit aimed mostly at pre-teens girls. Yet that scent wasn't entirely a disaster, just very dialed-in to the fresh and psuedo-warm trend of the day a la Bleu de Chanel (2010) or Dior Sauvage (2015), both of which do it better. What isn't so expected was this follow-up, which was apparently released as a limited edition in the same year but now sees a wider release as another Nordstrom exclusive in 2019 (something John Varvatos does often). Rodrigo Flores-Roux was also shockingly not present in the design of JV x NJ [Crimson] (2018), and since he is all but in name house perfumer for the brand, seeing this signed by the little-known Carlos Vinals makes this "red pill" version of JV x NJ all the more odd. True to that analogy, JV x NJ [Crimson] is everything the original JV x NJ isn't: odd, risky, a little challenging, and satisfying. I won't overstate how good this stuff is, as it is still clearly very commercial in design, but it is closer to something I'd actually wear over the original entry. All things considered, both of these should have been released at the same time, since people love the idea of equal opposites and collecting two "halves" of a "whole", but I understand the risk parting up with a former Disney starlet and releasing two new scents simultaneously under said starlet's name.

For starters, there isn't an abundance of citrus and cascalone here to mimick 90's and 2000's openings, nor is there a ton of ambroxan or barbershop notes like sage and geranium to keep this safe like the original. Instead, we get a rather interesting and a little bit confusing opening of apple and rum accompanying the soft vacuum-distilled bergamot opening of the original. A tiny peck of dry "carbonated" coffee is here which adds a bit of a callback to Thierry Mugler A*Men (1996), and the piquant nature of that note when mixed with the sweet apple and rum makes for a mulled spice feeling. I don't like the appearance of fantasy notes in the structure, but they don't mar the experience much. The opening is heads fairly quickly into a slight suede leather note and a bit of amber, also fairly dry in execution, flanked by a semi-medicinal lavender that is likely lavandin. The base has norlimbanol, labdanum, vetiver, and a fairly verdant patchouli, not at all like the usual denatured "white patchouli" making the rounds these days as a sorta-thickener. The scratchiness of the fake woods accord is balanced by this vetiver with a puff of musk to give JV x NJ [Crimson] a semi-oriental feeling. Final drydown is pleasant if not a bit vexing in development from dry fruit coffee to aromatic leather and finally woody amber tones, but performance is not huge so most of this trip will be experienced solo. JV x NJ [Crimson] is best used in an office or casual setting much like the blue bottle, but has a tiny bit more potential in colder weather, which makes sense when you think about it.

I feel like Nick Jonas probably had a singular idea of what he wanted, and two different ideas were presented to him; one by the typical perfumer of John Varvatos that played it by-the-book and ultimately won out, and one that came from an alternate perfumer which took a left-hand path to the same destination, making much more-creative but less mass-appealing choices. Similar to the dilemma faced by Roy Halston Frowick over his two masculine launch fragrance choices, Nick Jonas probably didn't want to leave whichever one he didn't choose to be wasted, so the original limited release occurred. There is really little else to explain a new limited flanker appearing only mere months behind the original, then getting magically released on a wider scale as a store exclusive, if not for the fact that both formulas existed from the start. In any case, I'd still be on the fence about owning this and recommend testing as it doesn't stand out much more from the crowd than its slightly-older "Jonas Brother", but the development is much more interesting and JV x NJ [Crimson] dries down to something other than the usual ambroxan bombs or aquatics competing against it in the affluent young men's segment. Solid like the first JV x NJ, more enjoyable than the first, and unique enough to eke out a passing grade from me, JV x NJ [Crimson] is still far from John Varvatos' finest hour but at least walks to the beat of its own drum. Thumbs Up
08th April, 2019

Emperor by Parfums Vintage

Starts off as a fruity Aventus batch and stays that way for maybe 3-4 hours. Later it balances out, losing a little of the top-end sweet, fruitiness. Doesn’t have the full salty-muskiness of ambergris of Aventus but it’s there in the background.

Longevity is good, goes on for 10+ hours. Projection is good but nothing beastly.
08th April, 2019

Tobacco Rose by Papillon Artisan Perfumes

for me , it opens with a robust hay flavored rose...brings to mind a really dark red//crimson rose that has fully bloomed...nice to sample a rose scent for a change that is devoid of oud...nice outdoorsy feel...a little green and mossy...smell totally unisex to me...a little booziness to it...very nice...not bad at all , but at the same time nothing ground breaking or earth shattering...projection not that great..seems to stay pretty close to the skin...does get an far as any associations, from he roses i've smelled , this reminds me a little of the 1st edition French bottling of Ungaro 3...kind of on the goth rose side of things...
08th April, 2019

Vintage Black by Kenneth Cole

I'm not 100% sure of the purpose behind Kenneth Cole Vintage Black (2010), as it has very little connective tissue to the original lovable flashy fashion disaster that is Kenneth Cole Black (2003), but my guess is to try and make a "mature" take on the party boy dynamics of that scent. Unfortunately, this translates as "another 'black' themed fragrance" at a time when the black flanker fad was finally starting to die. In a way, the first Kenneth Cole Black presages the success of synthetic ambergris masculines by a good number of years thanks to its use of timberol in an era predating the widespread adoption of ambroxide, but Vintage Black has none of that foresight, nor does it have perfumers Harry Freemont or Sabine de Tscharner returning to orchestrate. We don't really know who nosed this flanker, but it is probably for the best because there isn't much to sniff at here besides some scratchy woods in the base topped with a few fantasy accords and tons of citrus. I don't hate Vintage Black to be sure, but there is nothing that grabs me for better or worse in the development of the scent, which doesn't bode well. Whoever said mature had to equal uninteresting?

Kenneth Cole Vintage Black opens with lime, grapefruit, some kind of chemical additive to give it the rainfall effect of Calvin Klein Truth for Men (2002), and some mild "white" pepper. There is no mint, no zesty herbs, no ozone (which may be a relief for the "vintage" guys this tries in vain to go after), and no ginger. There is a bit of this "rubbing alcohol" burning effect that I guess is supposed to be the tequila accord mentioned in the note tree, but I get nothing in regards to booze, just the cheap denatured alcohol smell one finds in spray disinfectant, but dialed way down. If I measured this on opening alone, I'd give Vintage Black a thumbs down, but the heart redeems the scent enough to swing it out of total failure by having a nice dry lavender note boosted by some Iso E Super that Kenneth Cole cheekily labels as sandalwood. The base has some timberol like the original, offering the only real DNA link, but goes the route of some scratchy synthetic woods as this was 2010 and norlimbanol was coming into usage by then, offering a bit of outgoing synthetics with a bit of incoming for the time. The timberol doesn't communicate a fresh ambergris effect like it did in the original Black, and this dark scratchiness is covered only a tad by some white musk in the finish. Middling until it is no more, sillage is average and longevity is "good enough".

Vintage Black is a lot safer than Kenneth Cole Black to be sure, but wears its synthetic underpinnings even more garishly than the original, despite feigning maturity with having dialed-down dynamics and overall construction. The "vintage" style this goes after is still far out of sight, because lavender alone isn't enough to bring guys used to their heavy oakmoss bombs or animalic chypres to the yard to play ball, and younger guys at the time looking to stay on-trend would skip this for the word "vintage" alone being on the bottle. If that wasn't bad enough, 2010 was a landmark year for another tidal shift in men's styles, with Bleu de Chanel (2010) making mainstream waves, and Creed Aventus (2010) sowing the seeds for a slow rise up to the dominant form of luxury/prestige masculine styles, both being far away from the message sent by Kenneth Cole, who was starting to be usurped by John Varvatos as the new men's mainstream fragrance darling anyway. Kenneth Cole were starting to fall off the horse, and with Vintage Black, they were sending that message pretty loud and clear. Still, I can't bring myself to hate this juice, as there is nothing particularly offensive about it, so I give it a neutral rating. It can be found cheaply at discounters for the curious, or even still sampled at some department stores, so don't take my word for it.
08th April, 2019

Boucheron pour Homme by Boucheron

A clean citrus top note, that transforms over time from floral, to herbal and finally a subtle woody scent. An all year fragrance, suitable for the office or for a formal dinner. A timeless, fresh fragrance.
08th April, 2019
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Colonia Club by Acqua di Parma

Afraid I've got to agree with freewheelingvagabond. The mint note in the opening is synthetic smelling and upsetting to my sensibilities. There are other notes going on at the same time that don't seem to fit together and the overall effect for me felt like trying to breath through a porous rock covered in Colonia Club cologne. There is an ozonic effect going on in the opening as well in my opinion and as I've said I almost felt claustophobic during the opening. At 2 hours in it has died down quite a bit and is more bearable. Perhaps one spray on the wrist would be the way to wear this one for me. My last thought on Colonia Club is that I much prefer the body wash to the fragrance. Ah well, I love Acqua di Parma Colonia and Colonia Essenza, but Colonia Club is a no for me.
08th April, 2019

Emperor by Parfums Vintage

A balanced interpretation of Creed's Aventus. Strong sillage and longevity, an all-day fragrance. A great all year choice at a budget price, lol.
08th April, 2019

Hermèssence Santal Massoïa by Hermès

I don't think I care much for figgy mixes: Had Good Life, meh; Had Dune pH, respect it but never wore it; Close to draining a 4ml wonky tube sample of SM that's simply tubular in its whispy, high-pitch, lactonic, coco-nutty, figgy & sandal-woody ride. Interesting, exceptional, yet prohibitively expensive for me (but perhaps not thee).

p.s. Awesome on M'Lady!
08th April, 2019

Jasmins Marzipane by Lancôme

I got this in the 15 ml on eBay using my ebay bucks; I sprayed it on just my left wrist, and I'm not as excited as I think I should be.

I was seeking out a "creamy jasmine" and for some reason this kept popping up. I'm not sure I'm getting the "creamy" part. It actually has a "dry" aspect to it that I will attribute to the almond.

I had high hopes for this, simply based on the fact that Dominique Ropion was the nose behind it. I'll keep testing; for now, though, this is a "neutral" for me.
08th April, 2019

La Pausa Eau de Parfum by Chanel

This is for the EdP. When I came across La Pausa on basenotes it immediately was placed in the NO category as I fancied myself as not fond of iris. Yesterday I stopped by the Dallas Chanel boutique and the SA recommended I give it a chance. Why not? On paper it was nice enough and there was something there that piqued my interest. Time to try it on the skin. Wow!!! To me this opened with violet leaves and as it dried down the most amazing suede note appeared with just a hint of something floral. Very subtle, very well done, and just the leather I have been looking for!!!
07th April, 2019 (last edited: 17th April, 2019)

Verbena Fields by Parfums Vintage

A strong bright top note of Lemon Verbena, a fresh pleasant start that settles down to a green herbaceous scent. Projection and sillage are good but not overpowering. A warm-weather day scent, that is suitable for wearing at the Office. An uplifting scent with enough formality to be worn with a suit, but not sweet or fruity that would be more appropriate on vacation.
07th April, 2019

Calling All Angels by April Aromatics

Oh my! What a chorus of notes! Tiny points of sweetness. Smoldering incense. Mass resins. A bit of rubber, I smell. Notes see-saw. Juicy, dripping honey. The rose plays hide and seek. This fragrance is hard to describe. It has so much depth and character... It can be heavy and bold and slightly skanky and it is just my "thing". It sort of reminds me of some of the more intense Mancera offerings, or even Bois 1920 house fragrances.

There is also smoked, nearly burnt wood odors. Tonka smells toasted. There is a burnt soil smell, as well. The sweeter notes have more "air time", as the other notes settle closer on my skin. I found in the first hour, notes in CAA seem to bounce around. Now later, the whole thing becomes smoother. Honestly, my brain and nose cannot really discern between synthetic or natural notes. Whatever is here, is just delightful.

This scent never appears overly sweet or gourmandish to me. This is more of an earthy, woody, incense style, for the ages. I'm glad a fellow basenoter shared her sample with me. This, was a surprise experience.

Hours and hours later vanilla-incense lasts and lasts. Well done!
07th April, 2019

White Fire by Tiziana Terenzi

Light, like a summer rain in a garden filled with mainly shrubs and trees. Cool. No fire here. Somewhat airy. Delicate jasmine flowers. Leans towards soapy. Leans towards being just a skin scent on me. The base is light as well. Sandalwood and musk stand out more than amber. Base is soapy and milky. Too pale for my tastes. Probably a good workplace scent.
07th April, 2019

Organza Indécence by Givenchy

Sweet patchouli. Roasted wood chips. Slightly smoky. Plum-scented candles. Dark, sharp cinnamon. Becomes smooth, turning into a rather milky oriental. Most excellent amber, musk, and vanilla combination. This style / profile has been done to death, in recent years. OI, is one of the best. Maybe, one of the originals. This is glamorous, heady, and intoxicating. I've not tried the original Organza for comparison. Might have to now.

Later, musk and vanilla remain lovely on the skin.
07th April, 2019

Trèfle Pur by Atelier Cologne

Clean orange & neroli. Not too bitter. Clear notes. The middle notes are greenish and bright. Just enough galbanum; not over done.

Citrus and green notes hang on for quite some time. I feel though, TP is rather linear, leans towards dull.

At times I get an almost fig accord / note in the heart. Lots of cedar in the base, which may have tricked me into thinking "fig". Not a lot of patchouli here. I'm not having the best luck, with this house, finding a gem to invest in...
07th April, 2019

Rumz al Rasasi 9325 pour elle by Rasasi

This is pretty much a massive cedar, patchouli, and sandalwood monster, if more than five sprays are used. Very intense, Middle Eastern scent. Over-spraying will knock your socks off. Sillage is nuclear. Close to the skin one can smell little bits of iris, amber, and vanilla. There are moments of clove. Musk will develop hours later.

Sandalwood and patchouli go on and on...
07th April, 2019
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

L'Homme Idéal L'Intense by Guerlain

Spice and vanilla - that’s the mainstay of this composition. Not to sweet a vanilla, albeit nothing particularly exciting.

The spices mix pimento, ground black pepper and touches it up with a pleasant cardamom impression.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and six hours of longevity on my skin.

An agreeable flanker for autumn days, that is prevented from reaching the heights of a thumbs-up by its generic nature. 2.5/5.
07th April, 2019

Oud Stars : Fars by Xerjoff

awesome combo...East meets West...fougerish lavender/vetiver sitting on some flowery/resiny oud...very elegant a classic aromatic cologne with a touch of oud in it...very pleasant to my nose...kinda like Sagamore with some oud...projects nicely...nice quality and blending....gets really nicely woody/resiny/ambery in it's final phases...bottle worthy to me IMHO...the oud just ever so slightly touches a faint barnyard effect at times...
07th April, 2019

Italica by Xerjoff

By the Gods, I'm pretty sure I'm about to chew off my arm. Wow does that smell delicious. Strong scent of almond milk (which is hard to believe but it's true), toffee and vanilla with a woody base. Opens lusciously sweet, the milkiness of the almond makes it very smooth. This isn't overbearingly sweet, the wood notes and the dusty-earthiness of the saffron help give Italica more of a reserved gourmand quality. If I had to give it a comparison, I would say this smells like a very high-quality cookie dough batter. Which to me is just fantastic.

Since this isn't overly sweet, it's very unisex. This is good for any occasion, really: but given the price, you're probably going to want to save it for something special. This is...VERY expensive. It's very prohibitive for a casual fragrance user but believe me...this is blind buy worthy. Projection is slightly above average, longevity is 7-8 hours.

Really special. You'll just have to save up to afford it! Or find others to split it with as I did.

07th April, 2019

Cool Water by Davidoff

An unqualified legend. Cool Water is a fresh, green, somewhat aquatic scent that is notably reminiscent of Creed Green Irish Tweed (GIT). I liberally use Cool Water when I don't want to tap into my prized bottle of GIT. Less-sophisticated noses would probably be unable differentiate Cool Water from Green Irish Tweed within 30 minutes of application.

Overall, Cool Water is an extraordinarily easy-to-wear fragrance that is suitable for casual or office use. Davidoff created a fragrance that lives up to its name. Cool Water is a wet, fresh, woody fragrance with a light floral note (germanium). On the other hand, GIT is a dry, fresh, woody fragrance with a light - albeit different - floral note (violet).

Cool Water opens with soft lavender mingling with orange and mint. The rosemary top note - while well documented - is muted. The opening is fairly germanium-forward. This floral note tempers the dry oak moss middle and lends an overall softness and "wetness" to the scent. Conversely, GIT's oak moss teams up with ambergris, violet, and iris to create a much "drier" feel. Cool Water's dry down is heavy on sandalwood and musk. The drydown is somewhat linear and decidedly more floral than GIT. GIT's drydown is a rich and complex combination of ambergris, iris, and sandalwood.

Cool Water is a complex scent for a department store staple. It is a safe blind buy and an impressive alternative to its far pricier Creed peer. In a crowded room, many folks would be unable to detect much of a difference between Cool Water and GIT. However: the beauty of Creed is what happens to your shirt 24 hours after wearing it. You'll know what I mean after trying both. If you enjoy Cool Water, I guarantee you'll enjoy Green Irish Tweed. If you enjoy Green Irish Tweed, you *probably* won't be disappointed with Cool Water.

07th April, 2019

Exaltant Le Musc by Parfums Vintage

A very good substitute for Bond No.9 Bleecker Street. It's green, spicy and fresh with just enough sweetness to be modern. It starts to develop a sourness towards the very end of the drydown on my skin.

It projects and longevity is good, but I find the Bond to be a bit stronger.
06th April, 2019 (last edited: 07th April, 2019)

Tahitian Yuzu by Illuminum

Synthetic-smelling citrus with a green tone to it, but overwhelmed by fabric softener musk. The result is generically pleasant, but more like a gas station car freshener than a proper perfume.
06th April, 2019