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I'm not going to make any friends with this review. I wasn't attracted to this fragrance. It smells of pungent, sweet powder over an extremely bitter leather. Maybe I'm having an off day, but it's too harsh for me. (Lest you consider me faint-hearted, Aromatics Elixer is one of my favorite perfumes.) I greatly admire some of these old Carons from an artistic standpoint, but I don't enjoy wearing them for long. Nuit de Noel is amazing, with its ever-shifting combination of strange notes--fascinating and yet remote. So is Alpona, with its tantalizing sweet candied citrus peel and cake flour confused with dry, herbal notes. My feelings were more straightforward about Tabac Blond, which came across as a feminine tobacco-leather scent, clear in its intent. (The vintage version had a realistic, animalic leather.) En Avion is hard for me to wear for an hour until it smooths into a powdery, cool, carnation that remains pointedly bittersweet. The leather smells more cool and rubbery than warm and barn-like. Emotionally, the enigmatic base of some old Carons gives me the impression of a dark, old house full of antique wood furniture and a bedroom with a dresser full of boxes of powder and powder puffs. It reminds me of a sad, bygone era of fashion made weird by the passage of time.
17 February, 2012