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The scent pyramid I found for this wonderful fragrance from the house of Annick Goutal is an elixir of amber, frankincense, labdanum, styrax, benzoin, iris absolute, vanilla and Russian leather. Very interesting notes included...hmmm.
I sprayed it on for a "review" - one spray on my wrists and one on my neck. Great warm, smoke-infused amber fills the air. A nice diffuser of styrax sits on the table in front of you...wafting notes towards you. Incense lurking underneath all of this, but not heavy and definitely an amber & vanilla/frankincense blend - like one I have that I burn around the holidays. Resinous and balmy...very nice. Soothing. However, this is not an incense-laden scent or that "dirty".
Expecting even deeper and darker notes to come, this surprisingly turns toward Myrrhe Ardente about 30-40 minutes in - sharing a "sweetness" with the labdanum, benzoin and vanilla combining to create a "creamy" texture for the nose. No beeswax or anything carmelized here...not cloying at all. The resinous warmth still there, the touch of smoke of initial smoke has cleared and we are moving towards the dry-down. This takes another unique turn - and I think a very good one.
However, as Myrrhe Ardente is honeyed and you can almost feel benzoin crystals forming on your skin (just short of cloying - although that is part of its own beautiful nature), the iris absolute note here in Ambre Fetiche creates a nice lifted accord...which leads to a slight touch of leather. It is very faint - but creates a nice note on the dry-down. What happens is nothing short of beautiful...an experience in fragrance, not something you just spray. This is for connoisseurs and lovers of unique and true perfumery (as all Goutal bottlings are). I try to mention that point in every review I do for a bottle of this house's work. This is niche, artistic and created with true imagery - not marketing in mind. The idea is to transcend the wearer (and those around them) to another place. This does for me, along with virtually every other Goutal I've ever had the joy of trying or owning.
I really like this as a fragrance as well - it is a wonderful amber scent and clearly unisex. Myrrhe Ardente is definitely far better on my wife's olive skin. I think this will be as good or better as well. The potion that Ambre Fetiche is in a bottle is truly wonderful - it is meant to worn and adorned. Not a casual fragrance, but definitely one I will reach for on special occassions and when I want to radiate warmth and confidence. Again, I don't give ratings to Goutal's work...the house creates art, so a quantitative rating is not apropos. I really, really admire this.
14th March, 2012