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A different beast in comparison with the austere, extremely lush, harsh and incensey old glorious powerhouse formula. The latter used to smell like luxury and vintage leatherwears while this version is nothing than a darker and mossier kind of Egoiste Platinum, namely a nowadays generic parfum. The new one is more wearable , clean and aqueous (almost aquatic in the common sense) but less leathery, aromatic, smoky, mysterious and complex. The watery geranium and an angular violet are key elements and imprint metallic and astringent fluidity on the side of citrus and (i guess) a synthetic watery element (i would have the temptation to say calone-?-?). The fragrance has been "purified" by the vintage bergamot-lavender, tobacco, incense and by a consistent leathery presence while the bergamot is here just a minimal touch. I don't smell for sure the original formula's harsh rootiness and its incensey spiciness. The spices are toned down while the presence of citrus (lemon) is more prominent with a clear watery-cedary-lemony vibe around. The important presence of galbanum and moss, on the side of dark patchouli, impresses darkness and woodsy-mossy softness unlike the spicy-leathery-incensey rootiness of the original Uomo. The dry down is mainly dusty but fluidy ambergris-moss under my nose. The moss's work is starring and the weak leather is overshadowed by its link with the galbanum. Not a disaster but i'm disappointed, i'd have expected a different re-formulation more loyal to the original.
31st March, 2012