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From Off-Scenter's review, the notes are as follows: Lavender, artemisia, juniper berry, galbanum, geranium, clary sage, pine, basil, oakmoss, fir, leather, tonka bean.
I sprayed some on paper a few hours ago and came back to the strip just now. I thought I smelled cedar, but I'm guessing that's the fir. Wonderful woody cedar/fir drydown, one of my favorite notes in the base, sweetened by coumarin (tonka).
Interesting there are no negative reviews (yet?) To me, Esencia falls into the category of natural-smelling aromatic herbal perfumes, which may not necessarily agree with different people, but don't have any of the really off-putting synthetic notes that some others have. You may not like it, but you would have to agree that it smells nice, at least after a few minutes.
Yes, the opening is almost sour, it's so green. Probably best to leave it a bit before whiffing. The lavender, geranium and clary sage might be what give the soapy impression, to me not unpleasant. It seems in order to put everything in it which is necessary for the composition, the perfumer has sacrificed the first impression out of the bottle, which we should remember is not the basis on which any true perfume ought to be assessed, despite what celeb fragrance marketing would have us believe. There's a remarkable freshness in the middle notes, hard for me to identify individual notes, a minty note (basil?) lingering around.
Yatagan does come to mind for me as well. There's a lot of crossover in the notes in Yatagan and Esencia. I find Yatagan very herbal and pleasant, not at the all the raunchy beast others seem to find in that bottle. As for the supposed leather note in Esencia, I don't get any leather at all.
This one really does get better with time. It's a top-notch aromatic herbal chypre, very natural-smelling, a complement to clean skin, masculine and eminently wearable.
04 April, 2012