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    Indochine 25 by Parfumerie Generale

    As a gourmand woody oriental, Indochine is sited firmly at the center of Pierre Guillaume’s compositional comfort zone. Guillaume has built quite a collection of fine scents in this vein, including, though not limited to, Aomassaï, Praline de Santal, Felanilla, and Iris Taïzo. Right out of the bottle, Indochine bids fair to join their ranks. The scent seems to skip the traditional citrus top notes and jump right to a central arrangement of sweet resins and honey. The composition feels simple, but also weighty enough to satisfy, as if a Serge Lutens spicy oriental – say Arabie or El Attarine - were stripped of all its ornamental spices and flowers, leaving its resinous core exposed for observation.

    Sadly, Indochine is let down badly by its drydown, which includes a very potent, grating woody amber material that smells like it belongs in another, far cheaper, fragrance. The drydown strives for a creamy, soft sandalwood and amber effect, à la Bois des Îles, but that one loud, harsh note irreparably mars the otherwise smooth surface. Ironically, the offending woody amber would smell less conspicuous and disruptive if everything around it were not so soundly constructed and well balanced. As it is, what I most remember about Indochine after each wearing is wishing that the drydown lived up to the rest of the scent.

    05th April, 2012





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