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    jtd's avatar

    United States United States

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    Moustache by Rochas

    Moustache is nominally a masculine citrus, floral chypre. It falls into the same category as Chanel Pour Monsieur, Monsieur de Givenchy and even its own sibling Eau Sauvage. But something about the twists of its construction leaves a crisp dryness akin to Guerlainís Vetiver. Moustacheís lime and peppery carnation give an astringency similar in tone to Vetiverís licoricy-vetiver dryness.

    All of Moustacheís elements play off its central strong chypre base. The dryness has a scrubbed and starched quality that stands out brilliantly against growling animalic undertones. Itís as if Moustacheís affable eau de cologne-like gentlemanís chypre hides a bit of a snarl. Like an ongoing dare. Whatís marvelous is that this tension lasts through the entirely of the scentís evolution.

    There are through-lines to many of Edmond Roudnitskaís pieces (Eau díHermes, Eau Sauvage, Diorella) but I find that Moustache, an early work by Roudnistka and his wife Therese, shares a particular quality with one of his last pieces, Mario Valentinoís Ocean Rain. They both have and underpinning of that beautifully flat scent of a new rain hitting dry earth.

    09th December, 2010 (Last Edited: 04th May, 2012)





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