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    New York by Nicolaï

    New York, along with Shalimar, Guerlains's Vetiver, Cuir de Lancome, Knize Ten and Diorella are my most frequently worn perfumes. Makes me feel a bit stodgy when I look at it, but classical perfumery appeals to me. I do think I have a fairly catholic sense of classicism, though. I find the best of Etat Libre classically formal in construction. Lutens reinvents classical, and most of the Piguet line absolutely venerates the classical. New York has never done me wrong. When I crave it, it satisfies. When I'm uncertain what I want to wear and put on New York, it's like an olfactory moment of kensho.

    New York's secret weapon, besides its utterly flawless evolution is its powder. Powder is often mentioned in the context of the old-lady perfumes, tedious dandy fragrances, uninspired aldehydic fragrances. But New York's powder is gunpowder. It is a bitter, powdery dustiness made even darker by orange/bergamot resinousness.

    Chypre? Oriental? Powdery Wood? I'd probably give you a different answer on any given day. Like the best perfumes, New York has a deliberate ambiguity that makes it seem less elusive than actually alive.

    Update: Seeing Luca Turin’s note in the “Little Book” I tried the most recent iteration. Light orange cologne. Heartbreaking.

    27th July, 2011 (Last Edited: 04th May, 2012)

Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000