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    Darvant's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Muscs Koublaï Khän by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    What a challenging fragrance, an hardly approachable animal and rosey musk of unbelievable beauty. At the beginning i catch immediately the musk, a touch of bergamot and a sort of rose-blackberries  chord. In a while a  strange and arcane brewing whiff of fermenting  animal substances (civet, cistus labdanum, amber, castoreum, honey, wax etc) starts to work and is like the flowers would restlessly strive to couteract the dirtiness. The outcome is a rosey mossy-mouldy beasty olfactory dirtiness. I know that many can find this kind of smell too much daring or beyond the limits and infact this one is just for the lovers of the genre. A wonderful musk envelops the elements and is a sort of smooth, mossy musk, a musk surrounded by mushrooms, truffles and moulds under my nose, a dissonant musk with floral-fruity retro accents and with some "stinky" and fecal deflections. I absolutely detect the fecal and sweaty human note and it's the main responsible of the stinky dissonance i smell around. The patchouli is one of the standout elements and it's finally syrupy, mossy and dark as well as it is in Mazzolari Lui. The final aroma is obscure, mysterious, slightly incensey-waxy and fully decadent, the color of the juice is ideally dark-green and the ambiences conjured by the whiffs are sinister and stuffy old parisian rooms full of tapestries, golden lamps and candels. A bit disappointing the sillage to me. Wonderful work anyway.

    23 May, 2012