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Open begins with an inky, almost smoky medicinal note, like vulcanized rubber or surgical gloves. The citrus oil/alcohol blast follows a moment later then the soapy background moves very swiftly into position, although I find the soap note less strong than others do. It is there in the background for the first few hours, but I find the spices and moss/wood/leather the true leaders of this pack.
I find this to bear, in the drydown, a resemblance to Equipage, but perhaps a bit bolder. To my nose this registers as a leather note, although others claim there is no leather in this. One of the finest uses of moss occurs in this fragrance; Acqua di Selva, for example, goes almost too far into the moss forest but Open takes it to the exact point at the cliff's edge where the moss waterfall can take one over the precipice and halts, safely admiring the view below.
Open seems to be a quite complex fabrication, a bit like the manner of it's 1985 cohort Boss #1. Both wear a powerhouse costume at the start of the party only to remove it to find a smooth, mohair-clad gentleman with well-manicured hands and a self-assured mien after all.
03 June, 2012