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I've always appreciated since its inception this creation, located in the middle way between a classic chypre and an aromatic fougere, so decided to taste it back after a while (a long while, twenty years later at least). I remember to have tested it for the first time many years ago and since than i was impressed by the complex evolution from the initial lemony harshness to a multifaceted, rooty, mossy and obscure baroque wake with colors of orange, bergamot, spices, cedar, patchouli, petitgrain and flowers. This taste is rich, luxurious and decadent. As many underlined the first barber-shop blast is an unappealing thirsty lemony-lavender. The aromatic fist of fern, juniper and fir is in a while bursting together with the pungency of black cardamom that is the prelude for the upcoming darkness of the forest. The central stage is the most articulated phase of the development, a stage in which dozens of facets (herbal, floral, leathery, mossy, ambary, citrusy etc.) whirl around in a general vintage, potpourri and almost boozy atmosphere whose illusion (the booziness) is enhanced by the chord of gassy spices (nutmeg?), tobacco, mild amber and mandarin-orange. The middle part is luxurious but dark and restrained in the performances of astringent flowers and fruits that are almost overwhelmed by the gluminess and heaviness of the woodsy notes. I catch a sheer leathery mould in the final slightly powdery and very sophisticated outcome, a starring, almost creamy, ambery leather that envelops many elements like moss, sandalwood, smoke and strong rooty vetiver. In this phase the harshness is tamed but i would not define the smell as properly soapy. Ceremonial and austere with a touch of exoticism. Together with Pontaccio 21 my favourite from the great italian brand and in general a real precious leathery potion among the classics from the 80's.
30th November, 2011 (Last Edited: 15th June, 2012)