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    jtd's avatar

    United States United States

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    Voyage by Nautica

    Maybe the true problem is that I don't understand why "aquatic" fragrances are considered intrinsically aquatic. Do they bear any more relationship to water than any other particular style fragrance style? I believe it's the triple whammy of conditioning: 1) This category of scent has been used in so many masculine shower, shave, and grooming products that men have been conditioned to affiliate them with water. 2) Water, water (and glossy advertising) everywhere. Weíve grown numb to the modelsí antiseptic sweat of leisure and their stoic tolerance of the yachting life, but the water has seeped into our brains. 3) These aquatic scents are composed without any of the seamy bits that have made classical perfumes nuanced and suggestive: nothing animalic or indolic, no funky musk. No living reference point. Hence the fascinating marketing that has sold us on the scent of the ubiquitous but odorless water. Aquatic? Marine? Ozonic?! This word is one of the greatest ciphers in perfumery and advertising, proving the point that through careless repetition, a word that has no fixed significance gains a sweeping vagueness of reference at the same time that it loses any precise meaning. If I sound snobbish, I apologize. Iím simply in awe at the power of the marketing.

    I found Nautica Voyage for quite cheap, hazily remembered something about it, looked up Luca Turin's review and then bought it. I love Roucel's Missoni, so wanted to try what Turin had likened to Missoni in what I had hoped would be that unicorn, that transgression of gender: the pretty, floral for men. I can vaguely smell the similar componentry to Missoni, but itís nothing compared to Voyage's derivation of Cool Water.

    Voyage is Cool Water, minus. Minus the metal astringency that balances the non-specified fruit. Minus boldness. Minus refinement. Minus a nice smell.

    Derivative not subversive, Nautica Voyage is one of the hordes of clones riding Cool Water's coat tails that Turin and most other perfume critics refer to at some time or other.

    25 June, 2012 (Last Edited: 28 June, 2012)