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After the initial cherry blast, this is a dark, grown-up fragrance. Its tone reminds me of SL's Rose de Nuit although it smells nothing alike. I can also smell proper old Shalimar in here - the smoky, leathery, birch tar base, mmm... I guess this is the smoked tea. Also my beloved L'Heure Bleue... the almond, the aniseed. This is proper Guerlain stuff! I feel with this one they have finally successfully found the middle ground between the die-hard lovers of classics and potential new customers looking for something original with a contemporary feel. There's also a low electric hum which makes the scent feel alive... it must be some sort of aldehyde. I have smelled it somewhere before but cannot place it... (is it the so-called hairspray accord from Insolence which I actually loved and found so inventive? - the EDP being a more boring version of linear violet IMO)... but outside of perfumery it is the air before a thunderstorm, or a rock concert if you have been up close to all of the buzzing electrics on the stage. The rose heart is beautiful and luminous. When I first tested this I smelled it side by side with Rose Barbare to assess the rose, and I honestly preferred this. Overall it is not a loud fragrance (aside from the opening blast). It feels sultry and designed to draw people closer. Also, in my opinion a vast improvement on the original which I found to be too sweet and too dated (already, a la Angel). Slightly weird to launch in the spring/summer as it feels more of an autumn fragrance to me, but I'm wearing it anyway... it's impossible for me to resist!
28th June, 2012