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I usually think of neroli as a more masculine note, thanks to the fact that I associate it mostly with masculine classics from the likes of Penhaligons and Caswell Massey, but Aftelier cleverly feminize it into something new and different. It's got a little shot of pepper on top, and a dose of bright juicy orange, but the signature neroli comes through quickly, joined by a large dose of indolic orange blossom. On me, this citrus-plus-flowers smell only lasts about a half an hour before it gets swallowed up by a really pretty, creamy perfumey smell that's sort of powdery, sort of soapy, and sort of musky. It's actually a bit old-fashioned in a Chanel sort of way, and smells really nice tinted with the ongoing flowery neroli. Over the next hour or so, a polite vanilla note (nothing candied or cheap smelling, though nothing very exciting either) takes over, but eventually fades leaving a simple soapy smell vaguely scented with the last traces of neroli.
29th June, 2012