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Top: Aldehydes, orange, clary sage, nutmeg flower, bergamot, Brazilian rosewood
Heart: Carnation, cinnamon, jasmine, lilly of the valley, pine tree needles
Base: Tonka beans, patchouli, musk, oakmoss, vanilla, vetiver
Équipage is a dressy fragrance for all seasons. On me, it is extra dry but I simply adore it (which is quite surprising considering I generally prefer sweet amber-based fragrances). Since Équipage contains carnation, vanilla, tonka beans and musk, I expected it to be much sweeter. However, in spite of its dryness, it is not too hard. At first, it is spicy and very smoky but as soon as the dry-down begins, the clove note (well, it is more likely the carnation) becomes slightly tamer and seems to blend with the cinnamon which makes the composition zesty and vibrant. The dark patchouli/oakmoss/vetiver notes also subdue into a rounder and richer earthy base while the smokiness becomes much more discreet.
When I first tried Équipage back in the early 80's, I was not impressed at all. I thought it was too "serious", too "daddy-like", in other words: not exciting enough. I was sure there was leather somewhere in the composition and I did not care for that note at all back then. I tried Équipage again lately and I was very pleasantly surprised. I think you have to be a little older to truly appreciate this unique fragrance. Now, I am a fan!
02 August, 2012