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Now here’s a surprise from Heeley, a rose with plenty of murky undergrowth, resolutely old-fashioned, turning its face against the soapy, clean or simply loud characteristics that tend to dominate recent rose fragrances. I wouldn’t have expected it of him – so many of his other perfumes place the emphasis so strongly on the clarity of notes, they sometimes skirt banality.
This hippy is out in the garden: a mature rose among mossy, herbal aspects; there’s a hint of licorice that bridges effortlessly with a dark, rooty patchouli. The patchouli is beautifully judged, its presence is central but well contained, it’s no yawling feral beast. This is the kind of fragrance that rises to the nostrils as a perfectly formed accord; there is a completeness to it that resists too much picking apart of notes, one grasps it immediately and is satisfied. Or at least I am! Pretty linear once the top settles.
21st September, 2012