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    gimmegreen's avatar

    Netherlands Netherlands

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    Jubilation 25 by Amouage

    Sometimes a perfume of such concentration and so resolutely un-modern requires a degree of daring from the wearer, the vogue (admittedly only among the perfume cognoscenti) for smelly ouds notwithstanding. Opens with a strong desert spice trader vibe – plenty of smoke, incense, sun-baked wood, dry myrrh, and what seems like a cinnamon-cumin combo lurking at the fringes. This is parched and powerful – the floral notes are pretty muted on my skin, but the smoke is glorious, harking back it would appear to the origins of the word ‘perfume’. I must admit initial wearings left a not entirely favourable impression. At first I thought it edged a bit too close to the souk territory of Lutens, but over the day Guerlain’s Mitsouko seemed a more persistent shadow. However, that addictive smokiness and the bitter-sweet myrrh kept calling me back and I made my peace with its contradictions: the call to spiritual purging that the temple ingredients seem to be offering, which exists side by side with an almost opiate luxuriousness.
    Certainly far butcher than the ‘male’ companion scent, which jumps to please with a wagging tail, and which I admit I wear more readily. But this is a tremendously layered composition, leaning with haughty composure over the abyss of excess.

    26th October, 2012

Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000