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Sartorial is Bertrand Duchaufour's fragrant recreation of the smells, the feel and ambiance of an old world mens tailor haberdashery. You smell the bolts of many varieties of finely woven fabric, the shoe leather polished to a dull shine, and wafts of old world fougere cologne coming from workers of the establishment. The combination of differences makes this a truly international establishment. I like it.
The opening scent is an amberish fougere with a characteristic lavender/coumarin/oakmoss effect that warms you all over. Could be boring, but shortly after, in 10 minutes or so, the scent is taken over by a bold sauté of incense spiced woods (ginger, black pepper, oud wood, cedar, gurgham) and this multinational middle tone is stabilized with warm leather tones.
Sartorial is a successful combination of 3 old world disciplines in fragrance styles: fougere + incense + oriental leather. If Sartorial had continued down the same old fougere path I would not have liked the result. However, the combination of seemingly different fragrance pathways has created a woven tapestry that is as good as the name "sartorial." Possibly a new world masterpiece.
01st November, 2012