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When Guerlain announced the release of the Les Déserts d'Orient series I was initially skeptic. My main concern was why a brand such as Guerlain, which can be easily classified as french perfumery personified, would have jumped on the oud bandwagon. It sounded a lot like gimmick. Yet another way to increse sales in those teritories where fragrances go strong as long as they sound exclusive and unaffordable. WRONG!
Songe D'Un Bois D'Ete is an extremely solid composition and while including some typical ingredients of this kind of fragrances (oud, saffron, spices and resins), smells like nothing else around. It's rich and incredibly refined, elegant yet somewhat easy to wear and, most of all, incredibly well balanced in its iteration of some of the most typical oriental accords.
The opening is addictive. Saffron, oud and myrrh introduce a masculine balmy accord of woods and something that vaguely smells of gasoline. Everything is so calibrated to result original but not challenging. Incredibly likeable. The fragrance evolves with the addition of cardamom while a solid patch-cedarwood base starts to lurk in the back. Smelled from up close, Songe D'Un Bois D'Ete, may recall several woods-centered fragrances of the past ten years but the projection and sillage are incredibly unique. Incredibly detailed and refined. The fragrance remarks its presence with a smooth yet assertive personality which speaks of ancient woods, slight body odours provided by the spices, a subtle yet dark leathery accord, warmness and incredible depth. A long ride that will leave you fascinated from the packaging till the very last phases of the drydown. The next level of these kind of fragrances. Just glorious!
When Guerlain does it right, there's no match for anyone else!
07th November, 2012