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Oh, what an audacious decadent fragrance! A "non-fragrance" kind of niche smell, so realistic and ambient, almost apter to the throat gluttony than to the olfactory perception, so far from the chic international perfumery, from the olfactory tendences, fashion and beauty salons. Xvert is extremely spicy (it smells almost as a pepper sack) till the borders of the saltiness. I smell saffron, cardamom, kurcuma, red pepper and cumin but probably many other culinary devilments (some with a slight edible/agreable vibe----any civet?) escape from my vulgar nose. There is some mouldy trace in the wake at the beginning, something that more than vaguely reminds me a combination of oakmoss, mushrooms and mould and probably this type of feel is produced by the interaction between light citrus, dill, wet "dead leaves" and hay. The listed dill is the responsible (not alone, probably terragon and oregano flank it) of the slightly aromatic touch. Xvert is ancestral as the (padded and out of focus) childhood memories across the farms. Hay, hay and hay, it's apparent, as well as the till presence and something peaceful and secret as the aroma of the dead nature (echo of dead leaves) of the forest. A late fall kind of scent this is. The culinary spices are aromatic, red, green and yellow, and the herbs are edible and barely minty. At the beginning it seams yourself to be nearby an oriental city bazar or may be inside an old mill. The air is dense by edible aromas. I detect nuances of toasted bread, hay, spices (pungent and aromatic), salt, barley, corns, starch, flour etc. Frankly i'm unable to detect floral notes (is listed the magnolia i don't know it means in its floral o woody essence) but probably at distance (exuding the smell from other skins, while i tested the juice on my wrist) some light floral notes could be better noticeable. The touch of aromatic feel is anyway far from the O'Driu' landmark anisic/absinth/piney vibe that we appreciated in many other compositions. The longevity is not at top on my skin and i don't perceive a complex development but the juice is heavenly at all. The dry down adds a sort of woody (sandalwood for sure, may be hints of vetiver) more stable olfactory basement that imprints more structure to the "baked/spicy" dominant smell. I adore this precious culinary and rural fragrance which is saturated by evocative conjurations of my rural childhood which i spent close to the real nature.
12 November, 2012