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I pulled out my sample of the discontinued (?) Kingdom edp with the thought that Iíd single it out in my general complaint of the misuse of cumin to attempt to recreate animalic notes. When cumin is used to imply animalic notes, it typically doesnít work, smells fake and makes the perfume seem cheap. I canít say that Kingdom entirely escapes this trap. My complaint isnít that the cumin is strong, but that it doesnít actually recreate the animalic, and therefore, seen simply as a heavy spice note, is imbalanced and out of place. As I revisit Kingdom, I still find that a spurious note sinks the fragrance, but its not the huge cumin topnote. The real culprit is the mushy-musky drydown that seems like a thwarted attempt to emulate sandalwood.
30th November, 2012