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I have to say that this hesperidic fragrance is not so bad at all. The beginning is a bit familiar and lovely, a bit on the Aromatic Lime Montale vein, so appealing and almost bracing in its cinnamon/pepper/orange accord on the side of a sheer heady bergamot. In this fase the fragrance is classic and distinguished in its quite sharp evocative (of some eau de cologne of the past with a sheer bergamot presence) substance. I catch a lovely peppery presence in this phase and the work produced by cardamom is interesting with conjurations about 7 de Loewe and a bit Cacharel Pour Homme (but with a more orangy temperament). I agree that in this phase the experiment is a lot on the side of some Diptyque or Comme des Garcons (or Askett&English and Crabtree&Evelyn i would add) and the classic citrusy sharpness holds on its run for a relatively long time but unfortunately not so long to persist steady till the end of the trip. A certain level of cedary powder and almost soapy linearity starts to rise up and turn the smell out more common (yes, tamed) and uninspired. At this final stage the fragrance is faint and shy, the dusty/prickly spiciness is tamed and i would have liked a more virile, ambery (ambergris/patchouli) and smoky feel. Probably minimal hints of soothing balsams swirl in the blend but it is not a so interesting story. I have to anyway say that i'm not able to dislike this dignified composition far better appointed than many other recent V&A mediocre releases.
03 December, 2012