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The high shelf upon which Gold Woman and Ubar were perched was looking a bit lonely, so Amouage decided to release another BIG floral, Beloved. Goodness, this is gorgeous. Yet again Amouage demonstrates it can deliver the kind of rich, destabilizing but perfectly wearable perfumes that one felt had vanished by the last quarter of the twentieth century.
The opening thrills with a burst of liquerish intensity, resinous vapours rising from within; thereís a touch of Aromatics Elixir about it. But thatís a short fanfare after which itís mainly about the florals, rose (what a rose!) and jasmine underpinned with something like bitter marzipan (probably a combination of the patchouli, vanilla, benzoin and some of the animalic notes) and a whisper of sandalwood smoke. The depth of the floral heart is incredible, but it doesnít have quite the volume that can make Gold or Ubar occasional perfumes. No, this Beloved is much easier to approach and love. Eventually the entire thing relaxes upon its resins and powders, the notes that went before settled comfortably, sharing the gifts of each otherís company, moving into dreamy abstraction.
Amouage has priced this one shockingly high (even by their standards); time to stock up on the much more affordable 2 ml testers.
14 January, 2013