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This fragrance introduces all the olfactory complexity of the resinous note of labdanum, an element "di per se" arousing a multifaceted aroma with diverse facets, some of which are ambery, some incensey, some leathery/musky, some woody, others finally smoky, mellifluous and musty/mouldy. The perfumer creator decided in this case to support each of those nuances with the insertion of many accessorial elements as the musk, animal notes, resins, balsams, sweet-smoky tonka and a spicy patchouli which imprints sophistication and "importance" to the all whole olfactory fatigue. Labdanum 18 is an articulated white oriental. At the beginning for instance i detect the labdanum in its resinous outlook and i smell opposite types of accents, detect at once something detergent, soapy and rediant and something else vaguely smokey in the middle of a sort of ambery and musky general resinous feel, with fuzzy olfactory reminiscences about Ambre Fetiche Annick Goutal, E.Coudray Ambre et Vanille, Le Male Gaultier and Shalimar Guerlain. While at the beginning the aroma is more properly resinous, in the final phase of the development becomes really subtle and sensual even if almost evanescent on my skin. In this stage the scent is feminine in my opinion and really close to the skin (at least the mine). In the central stage the labdanum is overwhelmed by many other elements under my nose and it tends to disguise its substance and hide itself before to appear again in the base. Is properly in the dry down indeed, after some hours of development, that i detect more strictly the labdanum presence in its more stressed airy/boise' (almost incensey and anyway sharper) temperament. In this phase the juice is dry, cool with a touch of birch tar, musky and vaguely talky/eliotropic. An almost edible concoction for the lovers of the heavenly and immaculate ambery/resinous juices.
07 February, 2013