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Wearing Ambrarem Histoires de Parfums i soon detect a weird animalic amber/iris really peppery, herbal, earthy/medicinal and aromatic with a "sweet-salty" spark. The first impression is bewildering, wet, vaguely medicinal, and soon animalic, i detect indeed by soon the animalic amber/castoreum accord yet rising from the back but it is humid (rooty/earthy and wet because of the elemi/iris/watery saltiness influence i suppose), highly spicy aromatic due to the effect from the saffron and really peppery for at least a couple of hours. The rooty/peppery vibe holds on woodsy and "fur type" till when a botanic iris starts to emerge spicy/aromatic , earthy/rooty and with a deep dusty aroma that is in my opinion aroused by the interaction of sandalwood, animalic notes, pepper and saffron. Some balsams tend to soften the following development (in a well balanced and absolutely never cloying way in my opinion) that projects finally out a really particular type of amber/iris which holds on surprisingly till the end to be spicy/rooty and botanic and that becomes leathery and woody surrounded by an aromatic and alchemic medicinal (veguely ozonic) saffron. An almost unique iris/amber/oud accord introducing (though in a different way---aoud/saffron/resins/salt rather than aoud-gasoline) also some trails of that weird mineral/leathery/medicinal feel that we enjoyed in Petroleum. I prefer the full and experimental Petroleum's performance even if this issue deserves a lot of interest as a new particular take on a nowadays classic amber/oud accord.
10th February, 2013