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    Darvant's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Oud 27 by Le Labo

    The first Le Labo Oud 27's leathery/animalic, vaguely medicinal and spicy blast conjures at me up in a while Al Oudh by L'Artisan Parfumeur and i have to say that the resemblance between the two compositions is soon notable also along the following stages of the evolution. Apart indeed a certain dose of initial spiciness surrounded by rough leather, animalic "powdery saltiness" and vaguely medicinal aoud, the aforementioned concoctions share also the note of rose, than cedar, amber, patchouli and probably hints of orange. Oud 27 starts with an inebriating and prickly cloud of peppery saffron and dry/spicy patchouli (a la Patchouly Etro) followed by a "white powdery" and barely medicinal oud/leather accord pushed up by a touch of aldehydes and incense. The powdery effect rises up in the course of the development and the "white (in a second moment soapy)" effect is turned out due to the interaction of aldehydes, incense, powdery cedarwood and saffron. The note of oud (in my opinion minimal in dosage), after the initial pharmaceutical shortly lasting temperament, becomes enveloping and barely "carnal/animalic" with hints of civet and in this phase the white (i don't see any darkness around) powder turns out vaguely incensey, cedary and rosey. A touch of resinous aura rounds finally the elements in a general aldehydic/soapy and almost talky animal atmosphere with hints of powdery woods (mostly cedarwood) and musky ambergris. This radiant, talky, soapy and averagely sharp dry down reminds me vaguely some mossy and castoreum based glorious chypre of the past a la Jil Sander Man Pure. A soapy animalic take on aoud with a wonderful spicy/aldehydic, incensey and leathery radiancy.

    PS. Along the dry down i effectively detect unmistakably a subtle aqueous/salty vetiver presence (spaced ouy by the sweetness of amber and cinnamon) which increases in me the perception to enjoy a classic masculine (mossy animalic chypre) of the past.

    13 February, 2013