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The first upsetting and acute blast, with all those yet emerging notes of bergamot, mandarin/orange, visceral jasmine, ylang-ylang (prominent along the first minutes), patchouli, spices, something vaguely similar to a cherries/berries tea, vanilla, styrax and something vaguely mentholated (that in this case is the birch in association with other elements), conjures me in a while (but in a far less bombastic/synthetic way) the Joop Homme complicated beginning. All obviously in a more natural and "strangely leathery" way. Really intriguing and almost yummy is the aroma in this phase. Here the leather is not yet at all traditional in the usual vintage luxuriousness, nothing animalic, leatherwares conjuring, buffy or particularly smoky is yet emerging till now; the leathery touch here is indeed still almost resinous, candied and ostensibly gummy. It is somehow accessorial to the indolic combination of fruity/floral notes ( mandarin and iris in particular), spices and musky vanilla while becomes almost airy because of the aromatic association of saffron, orris, birch and styrax. The dry down is intensely fruity/floral (it seems like an oranges/berries combo) spicy/aromatic and oriental/resinous in a smooth and leathery way. The leathery touch is modern but overly fruity and yummy/resinous with a realistic floral essence, therefore i find it surprising but not sufficiently characterizing and refined.
After a couple of hours since the first blast effectively i start to detect a spark of more traditional smoky leather in the background but it is still in part overwhelmed by a penetrating (till the middle of the brain) fruity/floral oriental power. The trip is not anyway at the end yet; the final development with its sheer more realistic (although sweet/viscous) leathery vibe marks the difference. At this point i finally appreciate more the olfactory fatigue and the refinement keeps to emerge. A more properly feminine concoction in my opinion, with a really carnal, acute and almost sticky long route towards the aimed leathery goal.
19th February, 2013 (Last Edited: 20th February, 2013)