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Amazing. Declaration d'Un Soir strikes for its strictly balanced olfactory approach and for the quality of the elements in the age of the synthetic "Noir/black" fragrances rebundancy. The rose is opaque and shadowy, smooth and exotic with the wonderful spicy interaction coming from "neutral" prickly spices and i suppose from a minimal touch of patchouli working in the backgroud. Declaration d'Un Soir opens with a well calibrated blast of faint citrus (bitter orange in particular) and fresh edible ("un-sweet") spices (in particular black pepper, inebriating cumin, probably saffron and barely mild nutmeg ). The spices are absolutely well appointed and fenced inside the edge but, comparatively with the original Declaration, are more diluted along the trip till the dry down. The aqueous/peppery airy introduction leads us, through an aromatic green transition, down towards a floral/soapy/musky phase where a neutral accord of rose/orris interlaces itself with mild soft woods, sweet spices, probably neroli and a touch of spicy honey (some balsams?). The dry down is smoothly rosey, sweeter with a neroli presence but darkened by still working dusty/mild spices added in the base (sometimes i feel the sensation to detect minimal hints of incense in the air but it's just a misleading effect coming from the rose combined with cardamom and pungent spices). Extremely elegant and surprisingly more versatile than its predecessor Declaration (which is more opaque, soapy, green, complex, oakmoss centered and forbidding). More than in the average the projection and good the longevity on my skin. I detect some points in common with the less fruity/sweet Black Aoud and frankly this one could be loved by all those that feel the Montale one too brash, rosey, neutral (in the sense of too faintly sweet) and medicinal for a long part of the trip. I'm sure this fragrance is destined to become a new classic.
04 March, 2013