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I do like this classically-inspired 'new chypre', though I have a quibble with the ending.
I was convinced it had oakmoss when I first tried it, so classic did it smell, with that darkness, deepness, and slight roughness that defines oakmoss. I didn't really get the fruit others mentioned, until it came in at the end. It was well- blended - I didn't really smell individual notes as much as chords, giving it more of a cohesive seamless quality. The opening was a herbal deep chypre opening, and evolved into a more floral chypre, at which point it also started becoming less dark.
The glory of a chypre is oftentimes in the drydown, and this is where Jubilation 25 disappointed. On me it sort of dissipated and petered out, fading with hardly a whimper, becoming lighter, smoother, more floral and fruity. It has an upside down pyramid, starting dark and baselike then becoming lighter and brighter in the drydown. I like this one, but the too soon disappearance in the drydown gives me serious pause. It reminds me of another stunner which does the same on me - Mauboissin. I can't recommend J-25 unreservedly because of that, but the other parts of it are wonderful - 7.5 out of 10 stars.
13 January, 2013 (Last Edited: 25 March, 2013)