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    Darvant's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Macassar by Rochas

    Well, many of us, i mean many Basenoters, people from Fragrantica and in genenal each enthusiastic about classic perfumes of the left over old age tend to be overly fond of this kind of fragrances (sometimes we are also a bit too emphatic cause nostalgic about discontinued scents), i mean about stuffs so evocative, virile and naturally appointed with traditional practices and natural ingredients. Macassar is a classic, no doubts about, a sadly discontinued traditional and uncompromissingly masculine woody concoction with a green (vaguely minty) and sharply floral initial stage, a really impressive tobacco presence (a feel far more stressed than the yet present leathery vibe) and a woody (cedary kind) comforting dry down. I don't find it particularly strong or testosteronical in spite of its plain virile temperament. For a long while the aroma is herbal, really anisic, boise', musky/aromatic (cool by ginger, aromatic spices, resins, laurel and various herbs) and slightly citrusy and i detect a really sharp floral presence coming from the astringent geranium. The latter is really notable under my nose. In this phase i detect a sort of Monsieur Givenchy's type of vibe (with all the differences) , expecially if we test the Macassar After Shave. In a short while a sort of really smokey (i refer to the seasoned tobacco and the spices) and more than vaguely leathery/ woody vibe takes the stage with a role of protagonist, closing the door in face to the former green/anisic/boise/floral stage. In this phase the juice become less sparkling (the anisic ginger is a far memory) and more sharp, "toasted", roasted and seasoned in its woodiness. The legend turns at this point out with all its evocative power about glorious ages, temperamental men and "misured" taste. I agree about this conservative fragrance being not utterly sophisticated or classy but can't refrain me by rating it with a determined thumbs up in order to reward its history, the naturality and its charge of memories.

    01st April, 2013