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Well well well... this scent goes through three very distinct phases and while I dislike the first two I love the third enough to outweigh the first two. I would go further and say while they drydown takes a long time the fragrance, in its final form, is VERY long lasting.
I would describe the first stage as smelling like both the origins of perfumes and the reasons for them in the first place. It smells like the body odour and the floral you would imagine used in the days of Napolean used to cover it up. Either that or like a bad perfume being used to cover up the smell of a NY taxidriver from a certain region of the world in the summer.
The second stage becomes sweeter, perhaps so much so that as a man who likes earthy, citrus and some orintals it is too sweet. During this phase the B.O. note recedes but is still there and strong when taking a deep whiff.
The third stage, ah the third stage. I am partial to fragrances, on me, that smell human. That is to say not too obvious, out front or sweet. I think a frag should be a natural outgrowth of the wearer and not a cover or shield of the wearer. I guess that is why I am a great fan of more earthy and organic smells like MPG RDV and even the subtle cologne mure de musc. Here is where the brilliance of the Lutens shines in this particular scent. Yes, it starts off animalic, becomes animalic and floral but it ends up smelling like human intimacy. I do not mean sex, do not think fecal, think sweat may be closer but not that either. To me it smells closer to the smell of slept on pillows, of human closeness, of really close contact with another. It is warm, evocative and very slightly sweet and thankfully, in this stage, it is very long lasting.
If this third stage sounds good, I would apply an hour before going out in public and would avoid spraying it on clothes as it wll not drydown to the third stage in the 'right' way. It is a brilliantly designed fragrance, the design was clearly about this third stage, do not discount the smell until you live this stage.
01st June, 2007