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Eau de Pamplemousse Rose features notes of grapefruit, orange, rhubofix and vetiver. The grapefruit is sweetened with the tiniest rose accord; wet and juicy, very bright and lip puckering. The rose note is quickly buried on skin and in the air and simultaneously highlights the wonderful, flavorful combination of the two…and introduces a wonderful citrus/rose component similar to the brand new Perrier Pink Grapefruit mineral water, but sweeter. A fresh cut grapefruit drizzled with edible rose petal water would smell like this, for a second, right before you swallow it. But then, after you chewed it you’d experience the lingering and delicious presence of both.
The sheer and very light dry down has a radiant and subtle earthy feeling to it (my guess is the vetiver) - as if the citrus has been carried in from a neighboring grapefruit grove and the crates are full of mud or dirt. Yet the overall feeling is light and sunlit, with a rich coolness that must be the rhubofix (aka rhubarb oxirane, a Firmenich molecule described by Hermes as ‘fresh, woody, spicy, floral rhubarb’).
To be enjoyed at its fullest Eau de Pamplemousse Rose must be over applied – just like Eau de Orange Verte. When it is, the juice holds onto skin slightly longer. I think a shower gel of this scent would smell fantastic (Hermes has an ancillary line in the works)!
The grapefruit notes are tarter than those in Terre de Hermes (and sweeter than the white grapefruit in Un Jardin sur le Nil). The rose is considerably more restrained than in Kelly Caleche and/or Hermessence Rose Ikebana. Yes, you’ve smelled Jean Claude Ellena blend these notes before. But Eau de Pamplemousse Rose smells totally unique and engaging for men and women. It is the best grapefruit scent I’ve ever worn.
The high price tag ($125 for a 3.3 oz / $165 for a 6.5 oz) is all that is keeping me, for now, from buying a bottle.
26 May, 2009