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Guerlain is by most people known for its rich perfumes, but the house also has a line of 'eaux' - lighter and fresher fragrances made in cologne strength from citrus and herbs. Each of the perfumers from within the Guerlain family has composed an eau: Eau de Cologne Impériale (Pierre François Pascal Guerlain in 1853), Eau de Cologne du Coq (Aimé Guerlain in 1894), Eau de Fleurs de Cédrat (Jacques Guerlain in 1920) - and finally Jean-Paul Guerlain's simply named Eau de Guerlain from 1974. Actually, Eau de Guerlain is - rightfully - labelled as an Eau de Toilette: It's definitely the most complex and long-lasting of the four, and is has a remarkably long list of notes for a cologne. The balance of lemon and bergamot on one side and an aromatic bunch of herbs like basil, petitgrain and the anise-like caraway on the other is held in perfect check all the way through the scent in the most convincing and nostalgic way. It plays on the aromatic accord of dark Vol de Nuit, breezy Sous le Vent and dandified Mouchoir de Monsieur, but with basil to make it cool-uplifting, 'masculine' flowers like carnation and rose to make it tender, and stripped of any 'dirtiness'. Eau de Guerlain puts most of the Aqua Allegoria line's aromatic-fresh scents, like Herba Fresca, Lemon Fresca and Mandarine-Basilic, to shame.
13 May, 2008 (Last Edited: 14 May, 2008)