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L'Artisan Vanilia and Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Fleur de Comores Comparison Review
Vanilia Notes: ylang ylang, vanilla bean, amber and sandalwood (from www.nstperfume.com, NowSmellThis)
Fleur de Comores Notes: blackcurrant, passionfruit, leafy green, vanilla, orange blossom, jasmine, ambegris, vetiver, musk (from luckyscent.com)
I have been wanting to compare L'Artisan Vanilia and MPG Fleur de Comores ever since I read in the guide that they were both composed by the same perfumer (Laporte), FdC being a sort of "Vanilia II" which was created after Laporte left L'Artisan.
Vanilia starts sweet, woody and balsamic. As the top notes burn off, a hint of incense lends a smoky metallic tang and the fragrance becomes increasingly powdery. Vanilia stays in this stage for quite a long time, its subtlety keeping it from becoming cloying despite being linear. The drydown is a pretty vanilla-prominent amber with a little tonka bite and smoky woods.
Fleur de Comores' opening notes are massively boozy, with fermented overripe passionfruit (which seems to be a blend of apricot and cherry not unlike "Hawaiin Punch" fruit drink) and sharp, almost urinous blackcurrant bud. FdC develops more slowly than Vanilia, but eventually starts to turn more powdery as well, with indolic florals coming forward as the fruity top accord fades. The florals eventually settle on a base of woody, smoky green (vetiver).
Overall, I find FdC to be slightly more sophisticated and complex, and I find Vanilia more charming and easy to wear. In my book, this is one contest where simplicity wins--Vanilia is one of those fragrances that is so pleasant that it is adaptable to many occasions and age groups.
I suppose I can understand a kinship between these two. Both are what I would classify as relaxing, unpretentious fragrances evocative of summer holidays. However, looking at the bigger picture, if I were to name a successor to Vanilia, it would probably be L'Artisan Havana Vanille which takes the same idea more towards woods, resins and raisiny tobacco. Regardless, both Vanilia and FdC are worthy of sampling.
09th May, 2010