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Profumum Fiore d'Ambra
Notes: amber gris, opium (from luckyscent)
On first spray, I smell a golden resinous amber, carmelized sugar, powder, citrus, and a spice blend, probably cinnamon and clove. After the fragrance dries, the spices come out more, and it is clear that Fiore d'Ambra is primarily an oriental. The spice mixture reminds me a little bit of Estee Lauder Youth Dew--a dark spice concoction in which no one ingredient dominates, and the combination blends synergistically to form a new, not-found-in-nature spice. The spices are dry and dusty, and catch in my throat a bit. The dryness is offset by the sweet amber base, and persistent but light powder.
Further into the development, the spices stay strong and dry, and the rest of the fragrance mellows. The powder softens and becomes a bit more floral. The amber base sweetens more, and seems more vanillic and less resinous, forming a cushy pillow for the spices. The amber was actually much more prominent when first applied, but in the middle stage seems to take more of a supporting role. This is opposite to most orientals I have tried which typically have an amber analogue in the base which comes out more toward the end of the fragrance development. Having said that, Fd'A still reminds me of Youth Dew, and perhaps even more of Youth Dew Amber Nude, especially at this point.
I keep catching whiffs of Fd'A during the drydown. In this stage, the fragrance has sweetened considerably, and has lost the harsh spice edge. In fact, the spices faded to the point that they smell almost creamy, or, perhaps there is a creamy sandalwood in the base. A touch of powder and a hint of non-descript floral also remain. At any rate, it has become what I expect from an oriental...a soft vanilla and light resinous amber base. At this late stage, it recalls Givenchy Organza Indecence, although I think OI has a more creamy and delicious drydown. Overall, I find Fd'A to be very wearable, and slightly nostalgic due to the obvious nod in Youth Dew's direction. It is also very warm and comforting, and is composed of excellent, high quality ingredients.
Fiore d'Ambra seems to be relatively short lived. It developed in about 2-3 hours and is now wearing close to the body. Sillage was not as strong as I would have expected, given its oriental heritage. Profumum is extremely expensive, so before purchase, I would recommend a comparison to YDAN, if possible. (YDAN is discontinued, but is available at some online retailers.)
07th December, 2008