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Parfumerie Generale Aomassai
Notes: caramel, toasted hazelnuts, licorice, bitter orange, spices, wenge wood, vetiver, balsam wood, incense, dried grasses, resins (from luckyscent.com)
On first spray, Aomassi is incredibly sweet, the main note being burnt and caramelized sugar. Under this note is something more "fresh" and green smelling--I was not sure what this could be, so I sprayed the fragrance on a tissue for slower development. The green note smells very much like celery to me, both watery and herbal. I find the smell of celery to be rather off-putting, and its presence really takes a note I find difficult (burnt sugar) and turns it into a nauseating mess. Imagine the combination of carbon (smoky, gritty), sugar (sweet), caramel (balsamic) and celery (medicinal, aquatic). I am pretty sure this is a love-it-or-hate-it combination of notes, and unfortunately, it is one that I find almost intolerable. I am thankful that there is not anything *wrong* with this accord, i.e., I have no headache, runny nose, nor any hyperosmia. I simply do not like it. And it doesn't help that it turns my stomach.
The top accord wears off after about an hour to reveal a sweet vanillic, powdery and light floral middle and base. The drydown is lovely, although not anything ground breaking. The powder is nicely subdued and never becomes harsh or sharp. The vanilla is well done, slightly woody and leathery, and does not venture into cooking extract territory. There is a tiny bit of spice which is barely perceptible. I am sure the spice helps round out the fragrance, especially since the sweetness carries all through the development. The very late drydown is faint, and smells vaguely dry, woody, spicy and powdery. Longevity is low, around 3 hours, and sillage is light to moderate. Aomassi seems quite feminine, but with its smoky and green top notes, a man may enjoy it also.
14 February, 2009