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    Muscs Koublaï Khän by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    If Jovan was the introduction, to most Americans, of musk as a perfume, Muscs Koublai Khan is musk elevated to its highest aspiration. For todays SnS it contains the animalic triple play of musk, civet and castoreum. Just typing those notes in might give one the thought that this is like what the cage cleaner at the zoo must smell like. On me this is about as far from that as one can get. This is a mix of so many things but I find this scent to be exotic and sophisticated. The top of this is a combination of cumin and rose and that combination leads straightaway to the heart of castoreum. In the base the hallmarks of many Serge Lutens scents vanilla and patchouli make their presence known and it feels like there is labdanum there but there is so much else on display that I might be fooling myself on that score. All throughout from beginning to end is the most incredibly rounded and beautiful musk I’ve worn. As the scent progresses the interplay between the musk and the notes in each phase create a luxurious one-of-a-kind experience on my skin. I recently had one of my colleagues pick me up a bell jar of this from the Paris Salon because I know this one will stay with me for the next thirty years.

    28th February, 2009

Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000