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    Douglas Stewart Decker's avatar
    Douglas Stewart Decker
    United States United States

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    Muscs Koublaï Khän by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    I first heard about Muscs Koublaï Khän in the Basenotes article by Liz Upton, 20 June 2008 in which she says she believes there a very few men who could wear this fragrance and get away with it. Call that a red rag to a bull for me!! I love animal notes, especially Musk and Ambergris, and I have very little problem with wearing any of them so when I read Ms Upton's review I had to run out and buy all the scents she listed, feminine or masculine, just to see if I agreed with her.
    I manufacture Ambergris extracts for a leading world supplier and have sampled many musks in the course of my work as a perfumer also. I can see how those individuals who have grown up in the last 3 decades with the ever increasing synthetic fresh monotone (ozone) fragrances would not get the point and genus of this scent. Perfumes which used White Musk and other gutted soft forms of the musk note which smell more of powder than anything else and have predominated the perfume industry since the 1980's, this would be a challenge perhaps.
    But to those who understand the secret world of natural pheromone and the sexual and social role it plays in every moment of human interaction, this scent will please them to no end. A role which is as intrinsic to issues of trust and comfort as they are to attraction and mating.
    I rarely wear commercial fragrances and so much to my surprise Muscs Koublaï Khän left me wanting more of this wonderful elixir. It is a truly exalted form of the Musk note that to me is floral, soft and erotic / exotic. One of the most sophisticated musks I have come across in the many years I have fascinated over such fragrances. So for those who find it offensive I beg forgiveness should we ever meet in public. But I am sure this will be one fragrance that will remain in my wardrobe for many years to come. It strikes to the heart of that which those classic perfumers books like Odoratus Sexualis and The Scent of Eros attempted to define. Not the most animal scent in my wardrobe but one of the richest.
    My only complaint is that it doesn't stay on the skin as long as I would like. I suspect layering it with real Ambergris will fix that problem with out changing the scent even a little and if you can afford to retrieve a bottle of Muscs Koublaï Khän all the way from the salon in Paris you can afford the Ambergris to go with it I suspect.

    06 April, 2009