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Heliotrope is one of my favorite floral notes, and I've got a little collection of heliotrope soliflores beginning to grow on my shelf, Etro being the most recent. Unlike the heliotrope soliflores by Crown Perfumery and Santa Maria Novella, Etro's version adds a little of vanilla. Heliotrope itself has a naturally vanillic-almond powderiness, but it also has a green/floral aroma as well. With the addition of vanilla, and perhaps a little extra musk as well, the Etro version loses the green/floral aspect of heliotrope and becomes more of a gourmand instead of floral (though there is a floral underpinning evident). Even with the vanilla added it never becomes sugary sweet - the sweetness is restrained and balanced.
15th August, 2009