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Yet another deceptively simple, bright and cheery gourmand from Profumum (along with Dulcis in Fundo, Confetto, and the other ambers in the line). The simple accord of vanilla and light fruit notes strongly reminds me of a certain pastry, but for the life of me I can't remember the name of the pastry. Imagine the smell of a rich vanilla custard with a tart berry sauce and you're probably close to AeZ. There isn't much development, but nor is it entirely linear.
The fragrance starts out as vanilla with a light dusting of fruit - they say orange blossom but if that's what it is it isn't very distinct. Over the next couple hours the fruit becomes more noticeably a tart berry note. You might be reading this thinking that AeZ is recklessly sweet, which it is not, and although the vanilla is rich there is a restraint to it, and the dryness of the berry note keeps the sweetness in check. About 4-5 hours after application the berry note recedes in prominence but never fully disappears, leaving the vanilic base that is a touch powdery. As you can expect with Profumum, the materials are of obvious quality, none of the notes appear synthetic or cheap, and both great sillage and monster longevity can be expected with minimal application. Like with all other Profumums, it was perfectly well behaved on my skin.
A quick note by means of comparison to other gourmands: I happen to be skin testing Keiko Mecheri's Lokhoum on the opposite arm as I tested AeZ. Other than being gourmand and having fruit notes, AeZ shares nothing in common with Lokhoum-style fragrances such as the KM/Serge Lutens/Ava Luxe Lokhoums or Montale's Sweet Oriental Dream. The lokhoum/"Turkish Delight" gourmand sub-genre is characterized by a sweet almond note lasting the life of the fragrance that provides the sweet background, giving those fragrances a distinctly nutty and more subtle, maple-like aroma. Remove the almond and they are entirely different fragrances. AeZ is far more bright, the fruit notes far more prominent and sharp, than any lokhoum/gourmand.
16th March, 2009