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I've been working my way through the SIP line and having gone through 60-70% the one perfume that stands out from this excellent line is Magazine Street (followed closely by Fire & Cream). I found myself going back to my decant over and over, buying another decant, going through that one, buying a parfum sample, using THAT up, and finally buying myself an EdP bottle. Basically what I'm saying is that I have a very high standard that a modern niche perfume must reach to be bottle worthy, and Magazine Street exceeds this standard.
Magazine Street represents the very rare fragrance that comes off as complexly layered while in fact being deceptively simple. Vetiver intersects with patchouli such that neither note is evident on its own as the inherent qualities of these notes simultaneously balance and complement each other. The sharpness of vetiver balances with the density of patchouli as the earthy qualities of each peep through. A hint of vanilla lurks in the background that keeps the vetiver/patchouli from being too earthy and adds olfactory texture but never adds what one could call sweetness to the composition. Without being related to vintage chypres in any structural way, Magazine Street mimics the layered density of that genre, down to the olfactory vibration that vintage chypres provide. The fragrance is largely linear but this is not a bad thing in the slightness. I will enjoy the opening accord for as many hours as it stays on my skin.
Sillage is appropriate for this type of fragrance and longevity is very good. Comparing the EdP to the parfum, the parfum is slightly more dense but I'm not sure it's so superior to the EdP to justify the massive per/ml price increase. In an increasingly crowded field of modern niche offerings, perfumes like Magazine Street stand out waaaaay above the rest of the field. Thumbs UP!
20th May, 2010