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    flathorn's avatar

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    Tubéreuse Criminelle by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    I love this one, but it's out-of-character for me - a huge, rich femme fatale tuberose, earthy and sultry. I hate BWF's (those big voluptuous florals give me a headeache), so why not this one? For me it's because this floral lives in the earth and doesn't try to breath air. I still don't care for the menthol/rubber opening, though it does set your nose to accept what's coming. I was so relieved when that heavy black note dissipated, I eagerly, almost greedily, devoured the comparative sweetness of the tuberose. Before I realized it, I was mesmerized by the heavy, indolent earthiness of this unapologetic mud flower.
    I tried Chanel Gardenia next to it - no contest. Fracas - nope. SL's Datura Noir - no. The Frederic Malle tuberose, and several others with formidable reputations. They were all debutantes playing at being femme fatales next to this true lady of the night.
    An interesting note: I was playing with my essential oils, and accidentally put together a rubbery 3-note accord similar to the opening of TC, which involved oakmoss, hyssop, and ylang-ylang.

    29th September, 2006

Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000