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THE CURRENT FORMULATION: The sage in the opening brings out an interesting sort of cover-up of the indole from the gardenia, but the indole lasts only a minute or two as does the sage, leaving a pleasant green galbanum in control. I often had problems with galbanum but in this case, it comes through beautifully. The galbanum morphs into a delicious floral heart accord featuring jasmine, rose, and bergamot, and here’s where I begin to pick up Miss Dior’s chypre nature – the soft, discreet oakmoss from the base shadows the excellent floral bouquet. It grows richer and richer, adding depth with labdanum and patchouli with the soft oakmoss coming to its full bloom. The current version of Miss Dior is a bit of a rarity: It’s a pretty fragrance that has real depth in its hidden recesses. But it has longevity problems on my skin.
THE VINTAGE VERSION (thanks, ubuandibeme): After the sharp galbanum opening, the chypre nature of this earlier Miss Dior hits – complete with the leather that I didn’t smell in the current version. This opening carries an immediate leather note along with the bergamot and the oakmoss – I don’t get the gardenia and only a hint of indole hiding under the smooth leather. The rose and jasmine take their time (why hurry?) to show up under the leather chypreness and these aren’t the “pretty” florals that I expereinced in the current formulation… these florals are sensual and enticing in their quiet voluptuousness. This accord holds for hours as it gradually changes into a soft drydown of patchouli and labdanum with still a trace of oakmoss. This is a great scent and even the current version, though less intense and more modern, is a thumbs up.
01st February, 2010