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The opening is interesting Ė I enjoy the combination of orange and fig leafÖ a very nice combination nicely done. But then the middle notes get too floral for me. Since I donít get any mitigating pepper, the lily and the orange blossom get too heady for me, too strong, and itís just too much for a while. The top and middle accords simply do not last very long; Then, after, sayÖa half hour, absolu is already into its rather weak drydown, from which I donít get labdanum or cistus, but rather an potentially cloying sweet vanilla / amberish accord. The entire fragrance is gone from my skin within an hour even after a heavy application.
Iím not used to florals raging so strongly on my skin Ė usually they donít perform very well, but with this fragrance the universe is turned upside downÖ the florals dominate on my skin and I can barely smell them on the paper card. On the card the pepper is very strong in the opening, and then I get a lovely orange, fig leaf, reduced lily, accord that seems to serve as both the later opening and the heart. Itís not long before the labdanum moves in to provide a beautiful, somewhat resinous depth to a fragrance I had thought was totally uncomplicated. On paper the drydown is a soft, textured, balsamic elegance. Rochas Absolu performs much better on paper than on my skin. Itís a so-so, feminine ultrafloral with poor lasting power on my skin, and an elegant unisex soft-spicy floral with poor lasting power on paper.
10th August, 2009