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I’ve seen where this called a chypre; I’ve also seen it referred to as an Oriental; to confuse the situation more, H & R Genealogy positions it between aldehydic and sweet floral. What is it, really? I, personally, would call it a chypre, but I wouldn’t argue with Oriental. I think we can all agree with “aldehydic,” but… “sweet”…? It doesn’t come across as sweet to me. All of these labels just go to show how complex and impressive this fragrance is. Salvador Dali is an admirable EDP that hasn’t received the acclaim it deserves. The deep, rich, sensual notes already spring up in the opening, and its citrus / green accord is kicked up to the second or third power by the aldehydes. It is so sensual that I began scanning the pyramid for the animalic notes… Much to my surprise, I didn’t find them listed – must be the indoles from the jasmine. The middle florals form a solid rich floral bouquet with the jasmine slightly dominant to my nose – there is also a fairly strong powder, which continues into the base. The base presents a definite amber and vanilla, but it isn’t what I would call sweet because the cedar and the myrrh have a strong drying presence. It’s a wonderful what-I-would-call chypre base: woody, ambery, and slightly resinous. Hours later the myrrh note is still caressing the skin. Another wonderful ‘80s feminine fragrance.
23 August, 2008