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Truth in packaging: The Hermes people are honest enough to call this fragrance by the name of its real star…’tonka.’ This scent could get along nicely by simply being called ‘Tonka.’ What ‘vetiver’ it has is minimal— in the opening salvo there is a wonderful stab of raw vetiver plus iodine, but that great accord is gone in seconds. The vetiver then turns wimpy to the point where it does not deserve the name, ‘vetiver.’ I like the smell of vetiver and I search out vetiver fragrances. Malle’s Vetiver Extraordinaire and MPG’s Route de Vetiver and Annick Goutal’s Vetiver and L’Artisan’s Vetiver (and likely many more that I have not tried, yet) are all wonderful interpretations of vetiver that actually make use of vetiver. CDG’s Vettiveru is superb as vetiver light. Hermès Vetiver Tonka is too un-vetiverish, too linear, and too sweet for me, but it is a very nice tonka fragrance.
04 December, 2006